dangerous doug

This

When I started doing this many many years ago I used D2 front arms as they have a bit more room between the bushes

Would you be interested in potentially doing a second set?

I promise you now, they are heavier than they look. To the point where my plan was to do what soren did and weld a mog flange on the end of a landy axle with the diff upside down. I’ve got one tacked together but can’t do a propper test fit with the shafts in place. Nige has got some 2.88 ring and pinions on the shelf with my name on to make the gearing a bit more sensible too...

What page is that on @Daan? I wouldn’t mind having a look

I did look into doing that myself but decided is wasn’t doable. Clearly I was wrong and I’m now sad I got rid of my mog diffs

Nice work, I think @landroversforever may want a look at the spacers

I remember somewhere that it must exit behind the rearmost opening window

In short, I don’t. There’s a lot of stuff out there telling you where you can and can’t drill/cut and as per the internet, one thing contradicts the other. I worked on the principal of not removing too much behind where the engine mounts bolt as if I did have a frontal impact with something the frame would crush upto the engine anyway. the other thing I wanted to try but diddnt have the balls to do incase it ruined the look and did nothing practice was to alternate the direction of the flairs of the dimple dies. Couldn’t quite work out if that would do anything or not... anyway, some examples of working subframes which give me confidence that mine will be ok. Some of these are basically spider webs....

we are actually under! There is still more meat to lose so I may crack the drill out over the weekend we’ll have to agree to disagree on that. Some people cut a strip off of them reducing their length by around 5-6mm. Probably would have saved more doing this but It would be tricky to make it look good. the twist that those flanges would have taken out of the frame has been superseded by the gussets from the cone towers to the front of the frame (they are welded to the flange and to the top face of the frame where the bottom gusset meets the underside) and the boxing of the front crossmember

Anyways the results are in, I’ve known since yesterday so I’ll give it a bit longer if anyone else wants a guess

Yes, going aluminium cross flow head, efi and a small turbo(gt15 ish) there was a guy with a 998 running 180bhp in his hillclimb car but I think it’s safe to say most of that figure is RPM. I want to keep it mini....ish. I could just fit a bike engine and it would be lighter and faster but I need to keep some of its soul😉 it’ll be all steel aswel. The lexan windows are a must really if you want to save weight so I’m with you on that. African or European?! Be more specific man! this was exactly the point of this thread. I see so many people bolting so much useless junk to the outside of their cars. Boots normally full of nonsense too and I struggle to see how people dont understand all that extra weight has an effect. They can still carry all of their “treasures” but offset the weight elsewhere. Your windows are a perfect example, Fitting series doors asking your self if you really need that hd 6mm crossmember when the factory one lasted 20 years.... Excuse me sir! I have owned a landy long enough to know when I need a drain hole, the skills are transferable😂

So far the closest That is pretty much what I am aiming for. A Fully dressed mini coming in at 550kg aiming for 130bhp from a 998 turbo and cross flow We will never know because it will never be done😂

just for fun Slightly off topic but myself and @landroversforever have been playing games of guess the weight and my newly modded mini subframe came into question its the later single bolt flavour and the book says they come in at 16.2kg heres the kicker, I’ve drilled around 75 speed holes in it and also chopped of certain unneeded corners. All the holes over 13mm have had the dimple die treatment for added flair(see what I did there) and to hopefully stiffen it up a bit more. The whole car is being built with the ethos “remove weight, add structure” but theres more.....I also added gussets, braces and boxed it all in.....this stuff unfortunately wasn’t weighed before it was added but this makes the game a bit more fun. It’s all mild steel, has holes and is 2mm thick. The tower braces are hollow box, 3mm thick around 38x10mm. There is also the welding wire to take into account as a lot of seams were fully welded aswell so How much do you all think my work to offset the additional weight added has payed off anyone care to have a guess? im in at 16.75kg ross - 15.5kg there’s plenty more weight to be lost before the structure is compromised too

Did you get those pinion conversions from facebook? The markings on them are very simmilar to the ones I sold to a guy called Nathan

I did have a very nice and expensive 3” clamp from lazerlamps but it was a pain in the arse when I had to take stuff off for service etc. So now it is held on by zip ties and gravity.....no issues yet

I used silicone hoses from siliconehoses.co.uk exhaust bends from profusion on eBay and the pipe that goes from the box to the snorkel is some green heat proof plastic ducting also found on ebay.....expensive stuff for what it is not had any problems without a snorkel top yet but it’s not a daily

I was under the impression all mog 404 diffs were 3.54(same as a landy). There were a few differences between early and late axles in reguards to the difflock but I thought that was as far as it went. It is possible that r&p from other models fit though... sorry to hear the diffs went missing, did they even make it over or were they lost in the Warehouse at Heathrow?

There are kits on eBay for around £30. I’m told you need to use the gasket as they effect the preload on the bearings

MOG final drive ratio after the portal reduction is 7.08 the 1:1 tcase is almost essential if it’s ever going to go some distance. Mogs with a 1:1 box and 37s is basically the same as a defender with a 1.6 box iirc been a while since I’ve done the numbers

MOG final drive ratio after the portal reduction is 7.08 the 1:1 tcase is almost essential if it’s ever going to go some distance. Mogs with a 1:1 box and 37s is basically the same as a defender with a 1.6 box iirc been a while since I’ve done the numbers

That is absolute nonsense. You bypass that and you’ll make it run like a turd

You are right but the front lr axle is two identical Half’s welded together so if desirable you could weld on on the bottom aswell/instead

Tower crane base bolts