dangerous doug

Don’t you dare? I’ve referenced it 3 times today to see what I can do about my **** up😂 also, it’s very easy for people who have never seen, let alone driven sid to say what should be done. If you think he needs to go on a diet then go for it, I don’t think anyone is disagreeing with you but some may find it odd you’ve come to the conclusion so early in the build. But weight saving is fairly inexpensive and it makes what power you have go that little further. Good place to start if you feel that’s what’s needed IMO.

The axles may weigh more but I’m sure you won’t be launching sid like those guys do. I’ll ask him what grade when I see him, I know it’s fairly exotic as he hasto go tup north to get it and buy a certain amount in one go for the sale. you’ll be waiting a while for mine to get done, we were at billing yesterday and there was talks of putting it on a D2 chassis😂

@Stellaghost how much road is Sid going to see? I made a track rod out of aluminium at a friends, all the ultra4 cars have them and have aluminium trailing arms and they seem to do very well with them. You can shed a whole load of weight there. I think your lightweight must be one of the only actual lightweights out there with all the alli panel work it’s just the axles. I wouldn’t be too bothered though, Sid will still be lighter than the average 90 with all the carp that never gets used bolted to it👍

Often wondered that myself. I can only assume that the outside wall sees more load than the inside wall of the poop site tyre. People run them and they work, but they can’t be 100% or there wouldn’t be a market for the split rims like daan or nige has

Found a installation vid, super snazzy! ,

Each ring comes in 3 pieces per wheel(total of 6 per wheel), you weld them straight on to the rim then fit the beadlock rings to the rim to ensure all the tabs lock together. It looks a very nice system and they have allowed for water to drain out

Will the 109 portal bus be there? That would be a hell of a shoot out😂

Love this! Is it an open offer to all?😂

Stephen, it’s not better. Just different. Yes, they might be slightly lighter but yours will be stronger and use a lot of factory parts and easier to repair(if you need to repair). Everything is a compromise. We shall see in the end as we’re aiming for summer sister next year so if you’re there we’ll get an apples to oranges comparison and I honestly don’t think there will be much in it. I have another set of axle cases that would be easier to narrow if you fancy starting over….just saying😂

They are just a ring with holes in them mate. Some have a bead of their own for a bit more calming and others have a bit more steel on the back so they don’t deform when you do the bolts up. did find these which are the most complex weld on ones I’ve seen and look pretty good https://www.advancedmechanics.se/lang-EN/shop/product/beadlock-16-super-drain?tm=accessories-in-general/beedlocks another way you could do it is to cut your wheels in half, weld a pare of bolt rings in and have a spacer tube in the middle to make a crude double beadlock

The et+20 wolf will be banded which leaves me a bit of room between the knuckle and the rim HTH

16” wolf rim just clears the portal box and a comparison of calipers (defender front, D2 front and Wilwood. Wilwood offered up on the set up. Can’t comment on the 17s but you’ll get an additional 12mm of clearance

I can’t quite remember numbers on everything but it’s looking like an additional 5” of overall width with a 9” wide wheel and 37x12.50 trep.

How did you get on with the iroks Stephen? I’ve always liked those tyres!

Next thing I’m a bit undecided about is which way to mount the brackets for the trailing arm mounts, if mounted the conventional way I’ll have to grind out most of the top to allow room for the gigglepin arms which I assume removes a fair bit of their strength but if mounted the other way it’ll just become a plow and fill up with crud. Unsure if it’s more efficient with the loadings one way or other either. they’re getting pretty close though everything is stitched together with a few inches of weld at the moment, until it’s all mocked up and I can be sure that I’ve done everything right I won’t commit to setting the welder to “war crimes” and making everything as permanent as possible……hope my decision to TIG everything won’t come back to haunt me

Don’t know about porn, it just exists. stephens on the other hand….. anyway, I was sulking all weekend as I had to work Saturday and look after the other half who is faking back issues on Sunday(don’t tell her I said that or I will die😂) which ment no summer sisters and no time to work on the axles. So I’ve had to do what I can after work Anyway Cut up some metal for the a frame mount. Was in need of some washers/spacers for the inside of the mount(will be clear later) and after tearing the place apart looking for something suitable I had a brainwave…..off to my mate for the correct flavour hole saw and we now have what we need welded it all together and after all the time and effort I made to weld it square and keep it square(it still tweaked abit in the end) I realised that I hadn’t taken the centre measurement properly and had to trim the mount a fair bit. Toasty! And tacked in place So the spacers were necessary to allow full movement of the joint…why this wasn’t built into the joint itsself is beyond me but it’s done. I might chamfer the top of them a bit to make it easier to get it in and out for servicing

I’m pretty sure søren had some nice tyres on his mog that had some side wall flex. Rather large though but maybe kill 2 birds with one stone if your still looking at gearing issues😂

food for thought

That is a hell of a result for a first time out and something that’s had so much work that’s never been done before with little testing. Top marks sir! I think I did the gear ratios for you earlier in the thread(I’m not scrolling all the way back there😂), with your set up and a 1:1 box, your gearing will be approximately the same as a standard defender but a lower low ratio(obviously) Re steering arms; I’ll dig out some photos of some high steer arms for you, they’re mostly for hydro but you can use the mog arms for the track rod and the high steer arm for the drag link as I plan to do…. if you fancy switching to the correct engine….I have a 4.6 short block here, some heads and a few other bits and pieces to make maybe 70% of the engine. yours if you want it in return for the flanges👍

You make it home ok stephen?

8 is the correct number😉

Well that a new cover photo of ever I did see it! I have to say though I think this is photoshopped! a guy told me yesterday that portals make your car fall over, catch on fire and sink up to the roof. This is clearly not happening so @Bowie69 post is clearly fake news😂

Looks awesome! I’m gutted I couldn’t make it this weekend but patiently await photos

Hot innit! rear is set up, just need to do the tabs and could sling them under the truck to see if I’ve done anything right😂 I do hate These things…..I’m not even sure what you would call them, they take the place of the knuckles so Mercedes could make one axle case for the front and rear. But super ugly and Ofcourse dragged out the rear portal boxes to see what things look like. Diddnt have enough time to remove the drums but you get the idea. Also found a box of unused xcess4x4 axle trusses. Still undecided on it tbh. Both front and rear will have some Sort of truss but I havnt decided on how yet. Top, bottom or front. now I must go clean up as the other half is fuming at how dirty I’ve come home. If you don’t hear from me again I want you all to know it was her!😂

You were there when they were measured and you still got it wrong😂