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xychix

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Posts posted by xychix

  1. The symptoms all point to fuel starvation so , apart from checking the tank cap breather is clear ,It might be worth cracking the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter at tickover to check the lift pump is working - should squirt out at tickover and if good , fit new fuel filters and bleed through using the little manual lever you found under the lift pump , once it's coming out of the filter close bleed screw then release the two 8mm head screws on the IP and pump again on manual lever til it squirts out , close off and it should fire up - if not loosening an injector pipe at the injector will clear any remaining air . It can be a bit of a faff to get all the air out , but the above should do the job .

    cheers

    Steveb

    It's only after a hot start, just did a cold start and rev's right away.....

  2. A quick following of the fuel lines identified the following suspects.

    1 - A return hose (from front to 2nd cyl.) that looks to have a tiny leak, just is about to get a leak.

    2 - There seems to be a manual pump under the fuel pump ??? it's covered in oil so I cant determine exacly what it is, but as it has the main fuel line from the tank going to it I'd guess it's a diesel lift pump???

    3 - and last but not least... a 2nd fuelfilter along the chassis rail that likely never got serviced. It LOOKS as if it belongs to the 2 not used tanks under the seats, but actually the main fuel line goes trough it....

  3. Talk to Shabs at "http://www.syncrogearboxes.com"

    I have had several boxes of off him and will buy again one (R380) late this year when over.

    A new complete unit is about to go into the Series behind a 200 Tdi..

    He has a lead time to build one - I could transport one for you from him to France, or Holland, in late September, early October if it is any help for you..

    Interesting, do you drive up and down there end of the year?

    Cool to hear your progress. As I'm still working my @ss off on the house and shed i've got no landrover progress at all. Just new parts piling up :P

  4. I've opted for a zeus kit. As far as I could see the cheapest option. Custom disks I believe which might changing those costly... but with ~1000 km a year.....

    Zeus promises to deliver a compete kit while with Heystee you still need a load of defender parts.

  5. It sounds like you have a fuel delivery problem and the system is taking a while to purge the air out. Check the pipes for splits and chafing, rubber hoses for perishing and all joints for security. Tiny leaks won't let fuel out, so no tell-tale wet spot, but will let air in, which breaks the vacuum when the engine is off, allowing fuel to drain back down to the tank.

    Thanks, woulds like a bugger to find but no complicated stuff :P

    Is there a smart way to pressurise those lines a bit so I can go find leaks with soapy water?

  6. Interesting problem. My 2.25di ran sort of fine. (bit of black smoke when at work)

    Now suddenly it has issues with a warm start.

    A ~5 seconds start after 10 Secs of glowing does the coldstart just fine (even after not moving for 2 months)

    2x this procedure works in winter time.

    Warm start never was an issue until today, and once it is running I can put the throttle to the floor and it will slightly rev a bit, after ~5 km's of driving it gets slowly better and when back home the engine seemed it's old self.

    Turned off, started straight away, no problem, good revs

    Left it off for 30 minutes, hard start and same problem (filmed the behaviour, can upload that later). Full throttle slightly increases revs, flooring it for 30 seconds just keeps it at the (I'd guess 1000 rpm) same low max.

    Car is idling now and will let it Idle for 15 minutes and floor it again.

    Any idea's? Is it telling me it wants a 200di :P

    • Like 1
  7. I mentioned the Heyatee kit in my op. Only real issue is the price. But given free choice they are the one I'd go for. But sadly money will play a factor.

    Waiting to hear back from Zeus, there are on their annual shutdown at the mo.

    Same here Chicken,

    I've got a kit in order already for 1.5 weeks but no reply yet on what money to put where.

    Did get some reply but they are (as far as I understand) on holiday in the sun :) :)

  8. It will not really sort of line up I'm afraid.

    Mods are needed. I am about to take the 2.5 N/A out and fit a 200 Tdi in the Series and heating is a point to address. Before getting drastic, some people have fitted a sandwich heater - 2 Series matrixes in the box and that does seem to make a difference.

    As I have an Webasto lying around, I'm not too worried and will prob. end up building something from scratch.

    are you taking a healthy 2.5 out? or a 2.25?

  9. You could also crack open an injector to let the air out. transit di owners tend to do this on the front cilinder (as the back of the van starts to hang this is the highest point).

    If air comes out you do have a air leak somewhere to fix...

  10. I've been offered a disco 1 engine with 230K (km's) on the clock.

    Does anyone know if a 200di conversion is possible with a disco 200di (turbo less) without a defender exhaust manifold?

    Any other parts needed?

    - can i reuse Series III steering / radiator / exhaust?

    Most important can a LHD 200di conversion been done without having to go to PAS?

  11. On a transit 2.5di engine one would likely say air in the returnline bugging the injectors, but then a transit has no liftpump...

    Air in fuel / fuel return lines is likely the cause.

    (yeah yeah, I know it's not a transit forum ;) just trying to share some knowledge I've acquired over the years :) )

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