J@mes

have a look here: http://www.ntta.co.uk/law/law/driving_licences.htm

Can someone post a picture of it - I keep hearing about the A-Frame ball joint, but have no idea what or where it is on the vehicle!

Bobed90 where are you taking your test/ training? It's something I need to get my ass in gear and do, but there doesn't seem to be many local to me (Bourne) who do it. It's very expensive to do really, but you can put L-plates on and tow a trailer with a B+E competent person beside you providing they meet the criteria for sitting with a learner driver (over 21, had the license for 3+ years IIRC)

If the handle wont operate the door, try prying the landrover badge out of the handle and poke it from the hole with a screwdriver - always works on mine!

Thanks Mark, that's just what I was after!

Slightly off topic, but if using a bridle to connect two recovery points to one tow strop/rope is there an issue with the sideways forces that will be acting on the recovery points as they are pulled towards the centre of the vehicle where the main tow strop located on the bridle?

Ring your insurer and ask - they are pretty common now for most vehicles so there shouldn't be an issue unless they specifically do not cover any kind of modification to the vehicle. it will vary completely on your insurers policies and your own circumstances.

a set from aldi is what I already have - bought them for putting a decking together as it came with a large selection of wood drills. but the HSS bits are absolutely junk. thanks for the replies, plenty to think about!

Anyone got any suggestions? Want 1.0mm 10mm in .5mm increments but dont want to spend a fortune. equally, I dont want to be stopping halfway through a job because the bit has melted. cheers!

Surely the tank can go where the spare wheel is, under the back? Just means you either have to do without a spare wheel.

just did this on mine, and it worked!

Mine does this - I find taking the key out, turning it around and putting it in makes it work. NOW I know it should work both ways so dont ask me why this happens, it just does! I also found that waggling the wheel around a bit doesnt help, and neither does pushing the key in and out a few times!

The other issue with carrying an air rifle is that what happens if the person robbing you has a real gun? one of you is in the poo, and it aint him!

If someone tries to steal your car, LET THEM TAKE IT! there is no point in getting hurt or killed for your car, no matter how much you love it. It's insured and will get replaced. You may be insured, but you will not be replaced. If you get pulled with anything considered to be a weapon "tucked down beside the seat, in the door pocket" etc, you are going to be in trouble. The police will have heard all the excuses before and there is no getting out of it. I have had two attempted jackings (both in a 306) and am now very cautious about what is going on around me. Lock the doors in town, if stopped in a queue of traffic, leave space between you and the person in front so that you can pull away if needed, keep your feet ready to drive (in gear, on the bite, handbrake up) so you can move off quickly if someone tries it. As for "air rifle in the cab", behave fella - get rid of it or leave it at home. if you get caught with that with no good reason you could end up doing time. As I said, the police will know why it's there and wont accept any bull**** excuse on it.

spend my life in the outside lane

is he irish?

2/ YES. not sure on the other questions!

Is it happening more than once after the D/L has been taken out? or does it only happen once per time it is being used? As I said - Handbrake on, jack NSF up and try spinning it after its been in D/L

Sounds like the difflock coming out - its what mine did when it got stuck in! Every time I use it now I get the bottle jack out and get one wheel up to check weather the D/L has released or not. takes a few minutes on the road side but its worth it to not damage the transmission i think!

lol thats what I did today...cant go wrong then I guess - Just wasn't sure if there was a sure fire non-VIN number way of telling.

Is there a simple way of telling which engine sump plug washer I have (without getting under it and trying to tell as its wet outside and its warm on my sofa) I asked the local dealer today and they said they couldnt tell without the chassis number. Its a 95/96 300Tdi. so, copper or ally?

IIRC LR removed the D/L due to customer feedback - people saying that they never used it. Then a few years after the TD5 was released they put it back in due to popular demand. Some boxes have it installed already and some dont. you can tell by getting under the vehicle and reaching around to the top of the transfer box - if you can feel the threaded rod poking out of the top then it is fitted and you just need the linkage, if not then you need a different box.

new jacks here are about £120, and I am yet to find another one that has twin stage rams (not a screw out second section) that have the axle tube plate on the top.

they knew you were going to stack one and charged you in advance

if you have already stacked a vehicle then you have no right to be miffed my friend! Young drivers stack cars and thats why young driver premiums are high. YOU are the proof!