pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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Most of you know or have read my chassis change thread on here, I spoke to the local [truro] VRO office before they were all closed [to save dvla costs] they were not very useful, nobody knew if I would need a VIC or a full IVA, but gave me the form 627/1 anyway, also suggested my new chassis would need a new non LR [dvla issued] VIN, despite me telling the VRO my new chassis was a genuine new LR chassis = a like for like change. I also rang the regional VOSA test station in Exeter & was informed I didn't 'need' to o anything, same chassis so keeps the original VIN, no other changes, as my 110 was already correctly insured/registered/taxed/MOT'd on DVLA system & VOSA man said they weren't interested in correctly registered vehicles after a 'like for like' replacement part, i.e. VOSA wouldn't have any interest if it was a axle or engine or gearbox replacement.
where Shelly100 has got caught out [no fault of yours] is a chasis of unknown origin [secondhand] which legal must retain it's original VIN & registration number or be inspected to ascertain the identity & be allocated a Q reg or a age related reg.
V useful,
Thanks for that Ralph-
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An interesting thread, following Robert's linky to the dvla, there is a section about rebuilt vehicles. So hypothetically speaking if you were contemplating or have done a chassis swap yourself, would you need to submit a v627/1 to the dvla with all the docs etc?. This isn't something i've seen before, but been aware of keeping records and obviously retaining points from original components in case you were ever asked.
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Yep sounds like a bad earth to me anyway, If the black is the earth try clipping it to the chassis or body earth if you have a spare jump lead or wire kicking about. The lamp earths behind the number plate lamp covers on the tub are notorious patches for poor earths.
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Welcome to the forum, Wow, there's certailnly a few bits to keep you busy there, a lot depends on the life the car has had/climate. If it's been wet and by the sea a lot or in the dry warm climate of the southern USA.
the traction failure could be a low/flat battery which may not re-appear once it has been used a bit/charged up.
The SRS pretensioner could be down to a faulty seatbelt pretensioner, the SRS system wont activate if faults are detected with the units/wiring. If someone has been sneaky they could have removed or shorted the lamp out so as not to throw any lights up.
This could be as simple as a loose corroded wire in that area or require more involved work, such as part swapping. With ABS/SRS it's important to not mess if you are unsure about the risks/dangers.
Bonnet open message can come up if the bonnet release catches are dry/not greased properly or it hasn't had a slam, maybe if the readings were done with bonnet open.
The sunroof could be stuck/broken, the not set message can be seen on the sunroof or windows if the battery has been disconnected, if you wind the offending window/roof all the way open in one long press holding the switch down for a couple more seconds there should be a beep, then close the window/roof up again in one long press and hold a couple more seconds till the message says window set.
The remaining messages point to a emmisions or sensor fault which could be a job for a specialist, unless you have a good local garage with the necessary tools
HTH
Pete
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I used an high temp black rtv to make a gasket of sorts, any bolts got a circle of rtv. When I did mine i used an trolley jack with a bolt on cradle and an engine crane, I was able to remove the two front doors and the cover on tunnels floor etc as you have. Then a combination of a couple of sturdy chunks of 4x3 and some of the ratchet straps you get for HGV load lashing to support the weight when the crane was repositioned. These were handy a few times during the process when there was not any handbrake essentially and I needed to control the movement of the 110 to an inch or so.
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looks like a fault in a dodgy casting perhaps? well done for spotting it. There looks to be a couple of other weak points where shrinkage or fatigue has caused a few marks on the machined face
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No, that was me,
I was going on my experiences on chucking an R380 and 300tdi defender unit into my ex 2.5NAD/LT77 the R380 (i used) was a fair bit wider than the LT77 so needs the surrounding parts swapped over. i.e tunnel cover and the flanges both on the seatbox (which needs to be opened up ) and the bulkhead which just needs changing over. I can't remember if i re used my old floor pans or cut them down slightly.
Not sure what you need to do on the crossmember fron't underneath? I changed mine for a R380/300tdi crossmember to keep the gearbox in the right place as per factory, this did require 2 300tdi props. But i was changing the engine as well..........
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You will need to mod the seat box, change the tunnel cover and modify or swap the 2 floor plates. You may also want to get the bulkhead angle plate flange.The R380 box is wider especially at the back RHS next to the hand brake (right hand drive anyway).
I grafted a 300tdi seatbox flange onto my LT77 seatbox by gradually cutting more of it out until I could bolt it back in as a snug fit and retained it using some nuts and bolts along with the front seat runner screws and the handbrake bracket etc.
You can get a good idea of the cut require by putting the tunnel cover in and drawing round it onto old seatbox with a sharpy marker
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It's not just the 2 Browns that are unfused, the red/white back to the starter solenoid from the ign switch is unfused, along with the glowplug heater wiring or at least used to be on mine. When I chucked the 300tdi in I put a decent sized fuse block on the engine side of the bulkhead with and 80A and a 100A fuse in. The glowplug gained a timer relay and the red/white gained another relay
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when I had the 2.5NAD in mine the two brown wires ran from the alternator, round the back of the engine, over the hot cylinder head in through the centre of the bulkhead, then pretty much straight to the ign switch from memory. Not a fuse in sight as it's the perm live, unfused until the purple appears.
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don't be tempted to twist the barrel round in situ too much as you will break the over centre springs in the lock casing that give the reasuring click when locked/unocked. Ask me how I know
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And if it's a genuine wolf it will most likely be 24v. This means electric bits can be pricey. e.g 24v wolf wiper motor assemblies can go as high as £500. Alternators are a similar story. Bulbs are 24v which means halfords etc won't carry them.
As said above unless there is a specific reason, then a standard one with a galv chassis is going to be worth more and appeal to more people. Whilst the wolf will be worth slightly more to a few specialist collectors. The wolf isn't all that different mechanically, the chassis is prone to usual build quality rust. The 300tdi engine is of the egr variety with an additional oil cooler. Axles on the 90 are standard parts (rear may be a rover diff) as far as I can recall. The 110 used a HD axle that are like rocking horse poo to get hold of. The roll cages and hard top/soft top are unique to type as are the side mounted spare wheel brackets. Soft tops can be had for £100-200 on ebay from time to time.
Now if you wanted a wmik wolf then you are into another price bracket, for the bits.......
If you wanted a makeover to the nato variety on your current vehicle, you could do it for much less hassle. I.e paintjob change doors for two piece sliding/lift up, 90 softop frame and 90 hood. Along with tailgate and bits etc.
Pete
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did you wind off the snail cam adjusters 2 per side? after you put the new shoes on?
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The g valve (if fitted) should be lurking on the inside face of the RH chassis rail behind the transfer box before the A frame box crossmember. A cheaper option may be to fit one of those rally spec manual bias valves.
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Can you take it out in the rain or does the pva melt?. It looks like he subbed most of the craftsmanship to clarkson (jeremy). Fair dos though, for having a go.
With the wheels it must be worth at least £200 now?. At least if it blows up again with a piece of plywood screwed across the roof he would still have a coffee table.
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mine had a g valve on the chassis rail. Can't say i ever noticed the rear brakes doing much with the drums on.
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Why do you need a lie down........ did you have to fill it with fuel LOL, or did you watch the gauge wondering if there was a hole in the tank.
I've driven the RR sport and the 322 supercharged, managed 8mpg and 6mpg respectively. It was stop (standing) start driving and I wasn't paying for the fuel.
Very nice cars though.... for economy the standard 4.4 is nice without the zip of the supercharger
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more security devices, mainly along the KISS protocol, where they wont invalidate any insurance whilst in use, but easy to fit/remove. The problem seems to be with disklocks and the like "I was only popping in the shops for a few minutes"
1) maybe something to lock the steering arm at full lock either through a revised column lock/wheel boss adaptor or drop arm (harder to fit).
2) device / to lock the axles to stop a tow/push theft. (modded x brake) where the device cant be applied in motion.
3) hardened casing for the back of the injector pumps to prevent easy access to wire/solenoid.
Pete
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Thanks for taking the time to write up, at least the faults are known and can be dealt with. As the supply old aging 200 and 300 tdi's dry up it's goo to know there is some diy options.
the tdv6 and tdv8 just need some aftermarket afforable ecu's.
Pete
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Don't know if it's been mentioned at all, but have you clamped the rear braided hose at all? they don't like it as the pipe doesn't truly return to its original shape. I didn't get on with the braided hose at the back of my 110 so changed it back for a standard £2.50 rubber job, the diameter of the pipe used seems to be larger on the standard rubber pipe than on the braided.
Other thing is do you have a pic of your master cylinder type and servo type? there are various setups with some having 2 outlets for the front and 1 for the rear, and some having 1 for each with a T piece on the chassis rail and so on.
Pete
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after a bit of searching Saw this post on defender2.net
http://www.defender2.net/forum/post146493.html
could be nothing and all above board, but interesting observation that ebay smaller items are photo'd on house/driveway, larger items are on rough ground such as wasteland etc.
can't find any record of a company reg with ebay name,
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Copied this link from Mil section for more visibility, please be aware/vigilant in Midlands area, cluster of Landrovers being taken over Christmas/January.
1 From Harborne area last night, Bromsgrove, Rubery, Acocks Green (Redditch one not listed on Landywatch, i have asked them to post it).
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Would certainly seem to be a pattern, with quite a few going over Christmas, http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2//index.php?board=7.0
Wonder if there are certain individuals who were at it a few years back who have been let out, and are back to what they know how to do best.
Sorry for vagueness but a google search stolen landrovers midlands would throw up some info.
Thanks for that Ralph
VIN sale reporting
in International Forum
Posted
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121583209793?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26ghostText%3D%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D121583209793%26_rdc%3D1
your link didn't work,
edit: is there a way to search an auction site for new sellers with 0 or low feedback score, selling high value cars etc?
not that i'm stupid enough to buy anything from such sellers, but it would throw up some interesting listings.