pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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There is a few with the tdv6 so maybe of some use as a teardown guide
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I'm sure i have seen more info just trying to remember where....
For starters https://www.bodylogicuk.com/index.php/10/327175/
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The excess does go back to tank, from the injection pump? along with the spillback pipes from the injectors
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it should be possible, but bear in mind the risk. i.e dust (respirator). not sure you'll be able to use pop rivets so may have to use machine screws ant washers/nylocs along with a liberal dose of sikaflex.
If it's a geniune wolf the fibreglass ht and softtop are interchangeable.
The only other consideration is the destruction of said hardtop, £350-500 worth. The rollcage element comes in around £1000-1500. you coul go with a standard 110 hardtop route with a county hardtop eg windows and alpine rooflight style glazing?
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It's nice to look at the pictures (as there's never much technical content) i like the odd dipstick garage or mike manifold yarn. That's about it really, the technical content seemed to dry up 10 years ago for me. Most mags are guilty of this to some extent. They can be good for the odd read if you need to waste 5 mins, are new to the hobby or technically challenged with a disposable income.
They now seem to follow the same format time and time again, replace bolt on parts with newer more expensive parts, shootouts of 10-15 products, Top tips for improving an aspect of the vehicle, e.g mpg, or a rebuild which involves unbolting parts and replacing or sending the parts way for recon/rebuild. Makes you think if it's laziness, lack of content, or litigation from advice given. Or a combination of factors.
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fibre washer and a nyloc?
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don't forget to check earth to egine/chassis while you are there, we rebuilt a friends 90 last year. We found the main battery earth had a flag terminal in the middle that had opened up allowing the cable to move. in effect it had come unsoldered.
For months before he had symptoms you describe, he would have to tap the starter solenoid with the jack handle mistakenly thinking it had stuck. however it was down to the poor earth not passing enough current to drive starter motor.
Once we found this it was a lightbulb moment.
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What happens if you pull the relay by the lhs passenger seat to kill power to the eas ecu? does this kill the pump.
with the (relay back in and the) pump running do you get any pressure into the tank or has it done it a lot i.e has it got warm and run for long periods so the piston seal is banjaxed? Probably need to get some pressure or fault find the pump/reservoir first to determine you have usable pressure to do anything valve/airspring related.
P.S these are only my musings and how i would tackle it, i'm sure an adult will be along shortly ;-)
There is some info on rangerovers.net around buiding a spider wire to hot wire some connections to the driver block to test various valve and pump operation.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/4468-info-eas-troubleshooting-tips.html
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/airsuspension/
link to some eas bits if you need any, i.e pump repair
http://p38spares.co.uk/commerce/catagory/75/Air_Suspension.html
Pete
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the fault i've seen with driver pack was an intermittent raising and then flashing of led at high (like it would never get there) then it would eventually say eas fault 35mph max.
If you caught it raising you could command the down position to normal and it would be happy with that sometimes, not always. If not you got the eas fault.
You could reset it with eas unlock s/w but it randomly came back usually after a knock while driving e.g pothole or speedbump. changed two of the height sensors first thinking they were shot, and substituting an eas ecu, but it did exactly the same after.
So if it's intermittent raising it could well be a driver pack pcb problem. they are encapsulated in resin so not easy to get apart, could try a spare of ebay unless anyone here has one. However it's a easy enough job to swap the driver pack over from memory just need some heatshrink for the over pressure switch which i left in from memory.
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could be, although after it's been for a drive round does it doe anything else weird, like drop to eas fault 35mph max?
the comp is prob running to lift the suspension, does it stop normally? i.e after waking up the becm and leaving the doors open does it stop running after a timeout?
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6 minutes ago, Jocklandjohn said:
I'm contemplating getting one of the Attwood 3000 3inch bilge blowers and (somehow) fitting it inside the cab roof with flaps and blowing at my face - that'll cool me down in the height of summer!
inbuilt midge screen? Hang on a minute height of summer? you mean those 2 days you get where it goes above 8 deg c. lol. :-)
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15 minutes ago, sandu_222 said:
then it is NOT Attwood 3000 , but is Attwood 4000.
Ruuman, please advise on this point.
See page 5 halfway down...... already queried. 3000 is 3" (75mm)(too small), 4000 is 4" (100mm)
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3 hours ago, Jocklandjohn said:
Bugger bugger bugger - I just stripped out a load of bits and the heater intake and tried the fan - way too small. Checked the box - Attwood 4 inch inline bilge blower it says. Whats inside? A 3 inch. Called the vendor - apparently they've had 6 like this, across the whole of Europe. And I had to get one! So if you're ordering one - ask the vendor to open the box and check the contents are correct! No problem with them sending me another - should be here tomorrow, but so much for a quick job today!
Snap, i got a westmarine turbo 3000, in an Attwood turbo 4000 box off of ebay. Contacted the seller on the Isle of man who were very helpful in sorting it out for correct part.
Little project for the weekend me thinks
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mine is, some screws to release the initial vent grill then two more of the countersunk variety to hold the duct under it. It may need the screen wash bracket removing inside the wing if it is a bit tight for comfort.
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8 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Shove it in the RCA/phono line level input with a 3.5mm to RCA adapter, job done.
Some will moan about impedance differences, but in truth for this application can be safely ignored.
and at the other enf of alpine amps is a gain control to match the input level, whether it be 0.5v or 2.5v. Some of their lineup has speaker level inputs for cheapo headunits
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2A 12vdc? 24W amp is 30-70% efficient so 20W for both channels. Alpine amp linked or similar 20A fuse.
I used to be into such things in my Yoof, gave up after swapping cars every three years and having to rip out/re install everything. I used to run Alpine 4x30w amp into focal 6" component speakers for vocals and an Alpine 2x100w amp for 2 10" kappa infinity subs.
The "pie in here" radio head unit alone was £600, a to be young and have a very disposable income.......
It wasn't LOUD loud, but would give superb reproduction, and produce enough sound pressure at higher volume that objects in the rear view mirror would blur.
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At least give yourself a fighting chance, something like old school alpine amp. £35 2x30w rms all day....... every day.......
Pete
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Got my DL1C in the 110 rear tub RHS, it's well out of the way as i have a ffr radio table just in front of it, the exhaust ends up dropping down into the wheel arch void just behind the side locker. a slightly longer piece of rubber tubing is pushed through the wheel arch and over the chassis to draw clean air to burn from the centre of the chassis area. The wiring pump etc is all inside the vehicle with the airflow pointing backwards along the rhs of the tub (designed to add some ducting at some point) and keep it against the tub outer edge. Also allows a flexi hose to be plugged in to throw hot air into the 9x9 tent. The colder inlet air is drawn from under the radio table void and around the battery box against the bulkhead..
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yes roll the flap up and it should light. as long as it has power....think it is connected behind the centre 6 way switch.
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Spring can be weird, I have in the past fitted 2 drivers side front wolf hd 110/130 springs as they are a bit taller, the rear springs were supplied as +2" 420ftlbs hd aftermarket and weren't handed so they only need fitting the correct way up.
There is a part number looker upper on here somewhere (in tech archive).
Pete
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9 hours ago, Souster said:
and it's looking like head gasket unless I can plug the glow plug hole to prevent swarf)
You won't realistically, even 1 bit of swarf dropped in will end badly. head off as the guys say drill/tap and insert helicoil.
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Yes that's not a bad price either, EN24T grade steel. Does look shorter. Prob worth a call on Monday to ask them to measure the length to be sure before ordering.
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Was going to say could you cut it down but shaft is undercut.
edit scrap that idea, just seen the pics. could do with one made from scratch possibly. or shell out for one?
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inside the case is most likely a wirewound resistor and a wiper, if the assembly has a flaw (when it's been pressed together/riveted) it could be intermittent. you could test it out of the tank with a multimeter set to 200ohm range, and see how the readings progress. However in reality it's probably less faff to get a decent new one, bearmach etc.
Defender rebuild - Haynes manual - Is it worth getting?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
The most useful site i found was allbrit.de, their exploded parts catalogue is really useful if you're trying to replace/order parts