poohbear

Can you hear a chuffing niuse when the oil filler cap is removed? I'm guessing head gasket between #4 and an oil way. Alternatively - piston or rings and possibly bores as well. I'd have the head off for a look before going any further. Either way if the symptoms have come on quickly there is obviously something wrong which if left could seriously damage your engine. Dave.

Of course the cheeky way is to call your recovery company with a 'yea - it just stopped dead, wont run at all. Wierdest thing as it has been fine all week, honest gov'. Of course for this to work you have to have some sort of recovery cover in the first place!

I had been quoted 60 notes for a re-face but it turned it needed more than a skim - full vacumn test and check, revealed a leaking valve which needed sorting plus they had a hell of a job getting the injectors out - two full days work. The injector quote was from a different firm and was on an exchange basis. Dave.

Well, started out as a relatively cheap reface and new gaskets has turned into a right old pita! News from the head specialist - one valve seat to re-cut and three injectors had to be 'forcibly' removed, which although they stayed in one piece I have been advised to have them serviced. Now looking at £200+ for the head, plus £150 per injector plus gaskets and vat. Fortunately I've sourced some injectors @ £100 all in - but I'm now stoney broke again. It's also put another nail in the coffin as far as swmbo is concerned - "are you sure it's economically repairable?" Bummer.

Full marks to orgasmic farmer - head now off and there is a big blow between no. 4 and pushrod hole. Head looks ok, going away tomorrow for a clean and check. D.

Have spoken to a head specialist today who is of the same opinion - truck now off the road and will pull the head tonight. Fingers crossed the head is in good nick! Dave.

Thought so - So given I don't have the time/money to have a head refurbished, what damage can come from running it in this state?

Just after a confirmation of diagnosis: 200tdi with 215k on the clock - starts easily even without glow-plugs, just a flick of the starter when hot. It's started breathing heavily, to the point that on tickover it vents past the rocker cover cap. With the cap off you can hear a chuffing and there is a plume of fumes. The other clue is loads of blueish smoke on start when cold and if left to idle when cold. My guess is worn valve guides which has blown at least one valve stem seal off. There appears to be no loss of compression and it pulls well - so I'm thinking rings are OK and I wouldn't expect a head gasket to give these symptons. Does this sound like a reasonable conclusion? Dave.

Thanks Ralph. Dave.

For a 1990 Defender 110 CSW - there seem to be a number of options available, either up to a certain year or vin number or just generic defender. Any ideas what the correct part number is? Options I have: STC491 Defender 1987-2006 RTC3387 Defender to vin MA701009 AEU3015 Defender 110 to 1990 All help gratefully received. Dave.

Had forgotten all about this post - here are the pictures: The fact it has been painted black seems odd - who would have gone to the trouble? Dave.

right - this will be the last time I put myself up for public ridicule, had another play tonight once kids all in bed. I have been trying to prove to myself that I can weld a 4mm to 6mm fillet using my 130A 'hobby' welder. In the following picture the bead on the right was the start of this evening and the bead on the left was the result after and hour or so of 'knobbing' some bits of scrap up, the neighbours must be convinced that I've turned into some sort of abstract sculpture fiend! The first weld was done cold and I preheated the work as suggested for the second. Whilst I accept that I still have some way to go I am sufficiently confident that I can go ahead and order the new cross member and fit it myself. I have a few weeks before I can take the truck off the road anyway so I have plenty of opportunity for more practice. Can I just add that I am very grateful for the frank comments, it has been a huge help and also made me consider the consequences of poor workmanship, I'm surprised that the EU hasn't jumped down our throats and put a stop to the like of us folk who enjoy the 'challenge' of keeping our vehicles alive and running. When I do get the job finished I'll post up the results (assuming the welding is pretty enough!) Dave.

All comments taken as read, after all that was the whole point of posting in the first place. I don't intend to go 2 to 6mm or 6 to 6mm, the examples posted were just to see what I could achieve. I have plenty of scrap, gas & wire to play with and wont undertake anything on the truck until my welding is up to it. Thanks for all the input - I'll post back once I have something worth showing. Dave.

Why not - I did both of mine on my old 90 last year, first time I'd been inside a hub. First one took all day, second one was all done and dusted by afternoon tea on day two. You do get nice and messy but it's actually rather good fun to see it in so many bits. The toughest job was getting the swivel ball off, damn those bolts were tight! I did stuff up one oil seal which very quickly wrote off a set of nearly new brake pads with one shot all over a brake disc - but it was a learning experience. Dave.

Although in danger of bringing this thread back on topic - here is the not so good stuff: 6mm bar with both 6mm and 2mm lap joint: Doesn't look too bad, but behold: Doh.......More practice required methinks! Bring on the ridicule! Dave.

Not planning any 'crazy' recoveries - it's a daily driver not an off road toy, just need to repair a rotten rear end and this seems the best quality vs. cost option. I don't have the time/resources to source the materials and build one myself, let alone a big enough or well equipped workspace. As it is I have to move the vegetables in the garage when I want to use the bench! The actual construction can be seen here: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item20c4d23578 Dave.

Thanks for the repsonses - didn't mean to start a debate! I've had a play trying to lap two 6mm bars together which has shown that my technique needs some refining - mainly torch angle and bead pattern I think, though it may be the limitations of the welder. I'm not at home at the moment but will post the results tonight. In summary: I'm confident that using both lap and puddle joints the 4mm to chassis will be no problem. I'm also confident that I can join the 4mm plates as required, hopefully mostly off the vehicle but there will be some faffing around the tub mountings. The 4mm to 6mm at the crossmember will be the tricky bit, with my set-up: lots of short runs with plenty of time between for the welder to recover Multiple passes as required Welding bottom to top on vertical seams high current, low wire speed and little gas Sound reasonable? Dave.

Hi Nige - you are obviously absolutely correct, hence why I am seeking advice before planning how to complete the project. If I don't think I can do the job properly then it will have to be done by some one that can. But seeing as my bluff hs been well and truly called here are some work pieces I've knocked up tonight: the little blob on the right is the original tack - the rest was done in two runs. An below is a cut through the middle of the bead on the long side: these wer both done in 'ideal' conditions - i.e. a warm garage in a comfortable position and using nearly new metal. I am well aware that in the field things are very different. I am hoping that i can tack up all the heavy gauge stuff on the truck and then bring it inside to weld up properly, just leaving the 4mm to chassis seams to be done on the truck. All comments, good and/or bad, gratefully received. Dave.

Thanks guys - speedy response, with great advice! Cliff - I wouldn't have chosen 6mm but I wanted to stay clear of the cheap chinese parten parts and 6mm is what the guy makes them in and at a good price (delivered). At least it will take a while to rot out! Though if 3mm is perfectly adequate I might build my own - anybody got a pattern/dwg for a rear cross member with extensions? Simon - Thanks for the tips, I'd already adjusted the power/wire speed but wasn't sure how little gas I could get away with without adversely affecting the weld. The welder is already fan cooled, but I appreciate it wont have the same duty cycle as a pro machine. NB.Good work on the pedal box by the way - already on the Christmas list! foszug - I wasn't sure whether the welder could be 'throttled' by lack of supply or whether the limits were more down to the machine and it's internals. the mains lead on the welder certainly isn't 2.5mm Dave.

Hi Harry, Thanks for the reply - My set has a nominal max current of 130A, though I'd be surprised if it will actually achieve this in the real world. I am electrically proficient, unfortunately I don't have the time or funds to be re-wiring the garage at present, so I guess the real question is can I make a decent weld between 4mm & 6mm plate with 130A? If it's just a question of optimising the supply to the set or using a different technique then I'll give it a go, otherwise I need to arrnage access to a bigger welder! Dave.

Hi all, I'm just about to buy a new cross-member (from these guys: http://blacksheepoffroad.co.uk/Site/Home.html) for the 110 and am wondering if my MIG set-up is up to the job. The Crossmember itslef is in 6mm plate with the extensions supplied in kit form in 4mm. I've been doing some test pieces in the garage and with the wleder on it's max settting have successfully 'glued' 6mm to 2mm in various configurations using a couple of beads where necessary. Having cut the welds up they look to have made good penetration into the 6mm, so I'm pretty sure I can manage the 4mm to the chassis but I'm worried that my Migmate 130 wont manage the 4mm to 6mm needed at the other end. Is it acceptable to join the thicker pieces using multiple passes or should I be looking at getting hold of a more powerfull machine? My other quesiton is can I maximise the output of my current machine at all - for example at the moment the welder is running off a standard 13A socket in the garage and then via an extension lead, which I'm guessing can only be 0.75mm cable at best. If I use a 2.5mm extension would that make any differnce to what the welder can put out at the tip? Any enlightend views welcome. Dave.

I've used a small ratchet strap in the past - seems to work. D.

I'll pop a picture up tomorrow. D

Hi all, Have been working on the rear drums this week and noticed that my drive shafts have been welded to the drive flange. I've heard of this before but this looks factory, not bodged, the welding really is top notch. Was this a standard LR fitment? The parts manual shows the usual circlip arrangement. Dave.

Flint's is one of our regular work suppliers for anything from paint to hardware - have been meaning to put some of the rescue tape on an order for the emergency toolkit for some time. Check out their listing for 'sky-hooks' - can't wind up the trainees any more! Dave.