poohbear

I have a set of TD injectors in the garage if you want them? Dave.

Try giving each belt a little squirt of WD40 to identify where the noise is coming from, then move onto alternater bearings. Could also see if there is any play in the water pump shaft. HTH Dave.

Have a look on either RS or CPC website - one of them must stock that type of connector. Dave.

Ref. Classic Nut's query - Where you plumb the heater in depends on what your priorities are - If you want to heat the engine first then splice into the lines post the heater matrix (as close to the thermostat housing as possible), if you want to get heat into the cab first then put it between the head outlet and heater matrix. HTH. Dave.

My daily drive is a 110 - including school run and commuting - and I would say power steering is a must! I'd have forearms like Popeye trying to parallel park the truck all day. Let me know if you need the pump mounting bracket - I have one off a 19J kicking around somewhere, might even have a pump - let me know if any use. Dave.

I used the original TD hose - cut it where it runs past the steering box and inserted an X-fan switch adaptor, this means you can twist the ends until they line up with the relevant engine parts! The only other change is you have to extend the feed to the header tank. Simples. Dave.

Half moon spanner just about gets it - damn fiddly though! HTH, Dave.

Lower ambient temperature = denser air, therefore the air in your tyre takes up less volume = lower tyre pressure. No leaks involved. Let me guess - your tyre pressures magically go up again after winter? D.

that's the one I got - Fits fine on my defender 200Tdi along with a damper robbed off a disco 200Tdi - Just need to tap the timing case to take the sanden now! Dave.

Have you got air-con? I managed to destroy my 200tdi crank pulley trying to remove it, replaced with a brand new one (which was relatively cheap - just don't look at prices for the damper!). I ordered an air con one ready for on board air set up, but you could use this to drive a 2nd alternator instead. as far as I recall - all the pulley variants fit onto the damper. Dave

Google 'Webasto or Eberspacher' - they can easily be fitted to a Defender and either can be picked up for around £60 if you keep your eyes peeled. I have a Webasto - look for a heater that has been added to a vehicle rather than a factory fit item. You are much more likely to get wiring looms and controllers this way which makes it a discreet system you can plumb in - give it a fuel supply, 12v and your off! Dave.

Wiring for work lamp or load bay lighting & 12v supply for 'accessories', loudspeaker wiring? Dave.

Some people have had success with 'liquid metal' type fillers and a lot of elbow grease working them flat - but it will always just be putting off the inevitable. Whilst you're in there best change the balls as well, don't want your nice new swivel seals wrecked the first time you go round a corner! Dave.

A Leatherman is unofficial standard issue for our guys at work - A number have had them serviced or replaced foc no questions asked. Mind you, you would expect good customer service when paying their prices! Dave.

as long as the stub axle lands are OK - can you replace the stub axle without stripping down the swivel housing? It's been a while since I had mine in bits! Dave.

Depends how important it is to have your truck on the road - if it fails in the near future it's swivel housing off job, so best part of a day off the road. Most would say do it now whilst it's all in bits and forget for a long time. Others would say if all seems fine then leave well enough alone. I didn't do mine and ended up with a brake disc/pads contaminated with swivel grease - it had come past both stub axle seals and spread out on the inside of the disc! Dave.

There's an oil seal in the back of the swivel ball that seals round the halfshaft. Wheel bearings are packed with grease when fitted for lubrication.

I did both swivels on my old 90 last summer - messiest job I have done yet, one shot gets everywhete. I used the standard britpart swivel kit and it all fitted in the right place first time, though I nearly ran out of shims doing the pre-load! Worst bit was the bolts holding the swivel ball on, they were mental tight. Oh - and trying to work out how to split the stub axles from the swivel housing. Follow the guide, take plenty of breaks and have the kettle on permaboil! Dave.

Awesome news - now you can just enjoy it! Dave.

Hi Mav, If I'm not being too dim the installation manual for Thermotop and Thermotop S should be attached. I would concur that the pump prefers to 'blow' rather than 'suck'. Dave. Dang it - file is to big to attach to post, I can PM it if your interested?

I noticed a similar thing - I can see the fuel level 'pulsing' in the filter bowl in time with the lift pump. In my case the thermotop has a flow and return connection, without the nrv I could see the fuel flowing back out of the lines when the engine and heater were off - so in my particular instance it stops the fuel draining back to the tank overnight. Interestingly, from recollection, the installation manual doesn't mention non return valves. D.

Bought over the counter here: Northampton Diesel And Electrical Services Ltd 25-29 Gambrel Road Westgate Industrial Estate, Northampton NN5 5DG Tel: 01604 755321 Have you read my edit above re. fuel metering pump - I'll try and get the manual uploaded tomorrow. Dave.

My first NRV was a cheapy off e-bay, I think I damaged this by having a play with it (I blew through it to see what happened and think I popped it!). When I installed this and primed the fuel lines I could see the fuel draining back through the filter. The second valve was purchased from a diesel specialist - cost over twice as much, and you guessed it, looked identical to the e-bay cheap special. Fitted it (without messing around with it first this time!) and the system has worked perfectly since. I've also split the vehicle fuel feed just above where is comes up off the chassis rail and before it reaches the lift pump - I've gone: 8mm equal tee in fuel line to NRV then to fuel filter in 8mm comes out of the filter in 5mm and joins into the 2mm Webasto plastic line to the heater. Dave. Edit: Just re-read the manual - when using a dosing (I believe also called a metering pump) it has specific instructions for how it must be mounted. also taken from manual: Fuel Installation for Thermo Top S Fuel Supply In the case of carburettor or injection engines equipped with return lines, the heater's fuel system is to be integrated in the return line as shown in fig7. I'll try and scan the manual in tomorrow at work and get it on line.

Webasto installation manual specifys 2mm ID fuel line. Dave.

'hard reset' - on my Webasto is pull fuse 1, but that is with original Webasto loom which has three fuses. I think fuse one is just for the 'brain' as it is only 1A. I reckon running from a jerry can is your next test. Failing that have you thought about a bench test - if you can set up a test rig you can check individual components in the comfort of your garage/workshop/kitchen. Bit of a ball ache mind you!