RustyNissanPrairie

do they have some sort of bearing/bushing material between the door part of the hinge and the hinge pin?

yep as per Phil above, my ex-mil 110 had 5.5" rims with XZL's when I bought it and now uses 6.5" Wolf rims with another set of XZL's which were new ex LR take offs.

you can use dome headed cap head screws with a ball bearing bearing hammered into the hexagon instead of the standard hex heads.

Here it is; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=39388&st=0 still going strong 2 years on.

It was me-I'll see if I can find the thread

Henry Krank is your friend; http://www.henrykrank.com/alarm_mine.html

I've rebuilt a few 4 and 6 bolt PAS boxes, they arnt too difficult. The thing is that although I replace all the bearings and reseal with OEM seals-I just cant see how the reconditioning people can be making any money on a (cheap) recon box unless they are cutting corners by fitting Britpart/pattern parts and not bothering to change the bearings or worn shafts etc. If I wasn't in a position to rebuild my own-I'd buy direct OEM from Adwest as per the posters above

fits in permanently-providing you've got the right filler tube-it should have a small 'pip' locating pin that locates in a groove in the extension tube posted above. Pull it out and its dead easy to drain a jerry can into without the spout and has a mesh in the bottom to stop any big bits of crud getting in the tank.

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=88740&xSec=5497

DO NOT PAINT IT MATT !!! its a nightmare to clean, fades very quickly and leaves white scratches. Worst thing ever did painting mine matt Nato green. Satin miles better. Bs 381-285 is NATO green

Rustoleum-better than hammerite.

yes it is, you also need the relay. see here for offical 200tdi conversion manual; http://pdfcast.org/pdf/defender-diesel-turbo-tdi-engine-kit-fitting-instructions-stc939d instruction #40 / page9

I've been running 2 stroke oil in my 2.5NA for awhile, 300mls to a fulltank. Theory being that it adds the lubrication thats missing with the low sulphur fuels knocking around nowadays. Probably a waste of time with the Lucas/Cav DPC pump but might be beneficial to a Puma owner? A lot of information on South African forums re 2stroke oil vs sulphur levels.

Rustoleum big in the VW scene-example; http://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=43205 done a 110 roof with it, great stuff, the thing is too put enough paint on to flat it down smooth. Takes quite a lot of time to do though.

Marco, did you notice much difference in performance or EGT's going from the full size Alisport to the standard sized Brunel?

they use Torrington/Timken needle bearings-I've just rebuilt mine. Upper- Torrington B2016 full complement roller 1 required Lower- Torrington B2020 full compliment roller 1 required

Idiots. the closest I've come to being killed with a lathe was; I was in Fez in Morocco commissioning a polyurethane foam making plant, the mixer barrel was a bit mucked up from doing trials and the in-house fitter decided to take it to his mate in the 'machine shop' to clean rather than waiting to clean it in solvent overnight. Said mate clamped it in a huge 3 jaw lathe and set it going, then proceeded to clean the inside bore of the barrel with a scotchbrite pad held in his hand (itself a cringe worthy moment). He then changed gear on the lathe to get a better finish, and then once more changed up again. At this point it now must have been turning at over a 1000rpm! Up till now I'd been with the fitter keeping an eye on things but on him changing gear I decided to make a sharp exit, just as I turned i heard a loud 'ching'-the barrel had lost balance, hit the bed and been thown out, it then hit the machinist at which point Im running with my hands over my head as I can see out of the corner of my eye this barrel literally bouncing all over the workshop it had that much speed still. Dived outside without being hit. The machinist ended up unconsious with multiple broken ribs, internal bruising to most organs, and was sacked whilst recovering in hospital. Lucky to be alive.

i did a search before I posted but didnt find anything.

Russian website with Landrover parts manuals for pretty much everything from Defender onwards. 95% in English but easy to hit the translate button for Chrome users. Clicking on the part code takes you to the shopping cart section-obviously no use for people outside of Russia but you can copy the part number easily from here and paste it into Google to find a UK supplier/price. Seems a pretty genuine shop/site-no virus or malware found. http://www.numcat.ru/landrover/

Hi Kev You mailed me through Ebay about the Donaldson clamp I have for sale on Ebay (and here), they are only to fit the Donaldson Wolf/Iraq fitment airboxes (that are also for sale on Ebay) they wont fit the metal genuine LR airboxes like the one you posted about above. Personally-I'd buy the Donaldson airbox&filters instead-they are bigger and flow more air or if you run the safety filter as well then they provide cleaner air than a LR filter can-hence why the MOD fitted them to Iraq based Defenders. Plus they are cheaper-this guy is selling the airbox and filters for £22, item number- 150561092429

Thanks for the info! can I just pic your brains a bit more? did you put the engine in the proper factory 300Defender position? Does the R380 style crossmember go in the same place as the tube type LT77 crossmember-but just drilled to fit? Thanks in advance

I'm planning on fitting a 300tdi with a R380 gearbox in the proper 300tdi/R380 factory positions but into a 110 LT77 chassis, are the gearbox crossmembers directly swappable? or do I have to drill/sleeve new mounting bolt holes in the chassis rails?

Okay-bit of an update; Tried a set of Peugeot non Pintaux injectors (FOC through a friend), a very slight improvement at mid to high revs BUT could have just been because of fitting new clean injectors as opposed to the 2 year old Pintaux types that I took out. Starting was okay initially but after a week or so it got harder to start-it took a lot more cranking and then obviously quite a bit of grey unburt diesel smoke till it cleaned up. Took them out and went back to a refurbished set of standard injectors again. Probably ok in a warmer climate or if I'd fitted some Bosch Duratherm glowplugs as well but otherwise not worth bothering with. The 2nd biggest difference though (after fitting the gas flowed head) was fitting a Donaldson air filter. These are available cheap on Ebay (and I've got the mounting bands for sale on here). Basically they are a far bigger airbox & filter that were fitted to 300tdi/Wolfs serving in Iraq to cope with the dust levels there. It flows a lot more air than the standard N/A (or 300tdi) filter and has given an approx 5mph increase up my usual test hills-low to mid range torque has improved by quite a bit as well. Not sure if they would work so well with a standard N/A cylinder head, due to the fact mine is gas flowed/ported and so can breathe more air in and out than a standard head and was possibly being restricted by the standard air box Requires an adaptor making up to go from the reduced bore of the N/A inlet manifold hose to the increased bore of the 300tdi/Donaldson airbox outlet. In my case-definitely worth the £20 odd quid they cost. Also trying 2 stroke oil in the diesel. Theory seems to stem from South Africa where they have sulphur issues with their diesel-it probably only effects newer state of the art diesel systems as opposed to older mechanical setups. Anyway, adding 2 stroke oil is supposed to add lubrication to the injection system, which leads to reduced friction levels in the IP resulting in increased engine power outputs. Will report back.

ok-thanks, never seen a 380 type before.

Just bought one off Ebay-its arrived and its plastic with moulded in accoustic foam on the underside, I was thinking it would be metal like a pre R380 type. Is this correct?