RustyNissanPrairie

up the tickover speed a bit, fit a wright offroad urethane seatbox cover thingy and stick in a short bellhousing r380. the ultimate 110

the 19j has a diaphragm jobbie for regulating fuel delivery when the turbo is on boost-the 12j dosnt have this. I have a 12J so Im afraid I cant be more helpful regarding the diaphragm boost bit.

check out YRM as well; http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/001-defenderseries-bulkhead-repair-panels-14-p.asp http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/001a-extended-bulkhead-repair-panels-pair-316-p.asp

i also tried drilling mine-securely held, plenty of Rocol on it, carbide bits etc, gave up and threw it in the metal skip! very very very hard to drill, managed 1 hole right through but like i say gave up trying to drill the final one.

the 380 cross member bolts onto a lt77 chassis with no mods, you just need to cut the engine mounts off your 300chassis and weld them in the same place on your TD chassis-no mounting adaptor required-the engine will sit on the factory position so you can use stock pipework. The adaptor is only needed when using a 300tdi with the bellhousing off the donor 2.5NA or TD and then bolting it to a Lt77. The 300ends up sitting further back in a NA/TD/200tdi style position hence the adaptor being required. If you go the 300/r380 route you'll just basically recreate your '98 year Defender but on the older year TD chassis. Or just buy a new 300tdi galv chassis and go the full hog?

no-if you go with a R380 and a 300tdi you need the correct gearbox crossmember for an R380, seatbox, gearbox diaphragm/tunnel thingy, floor plates, 300tdi propshafts (IIRC) and engine mounts for a 300tdi on the chassis rails. The Defender 200tdi is easiest (allthough the engines cost a premium) and is the route I went down.

same here! tried the fill it with grease and whack a well fitting bar in method didnt work, in the end I tapped it to M27 and pulled it out with a slide hammer.

starter motor engaged on the flywheel? seized alternator?

should have stuck a gassed 4.6 in it.

2.5NA engine, LT77 'box quite pronounced rattle from the clutch bellhousing area does it under the following conditions- clutch in box in neutral clutch out box in neutral clutch out box in gear but transfer in neutral goes away at approx 1000-1500rpm, dosnt half make a racket though at tickover when warm-ok when cold. Engine and box is coming out at some point to fit my 200tdi Defender engine but I'd like it to last until im ready.

little piece picked up from Twitter; http://www.birminghammail.net/news/top-stories/2011/09/20/picture-gallery-historic-land-rover-sale-in-cannock-97319-29453283/2/

The clutch spigot bearing on my replacement 200tdi engine has cracked due to somebody clumsily removing the gearbox so needs replacing Are the spigot bearings sintered bearings? and do they need 'soaking in oil' first before fitment? Thanks in advance.

an empty SA80 magazine and some grotty porn mags

funnily enough we'd done Llangdegla on the sunday, driven over and camped in Betws-Y-Coed on the monday for the Marin trail and then set off home. I reckon its summat in the air at Llangdegla that eats fan belts. For once Halfords came up trumps as well-Chester LR main dealers wanted £10.58 for a fan belt and would have it in for tomorrow- "do you see the 110 parked on double yellows outside?" "do you see my shoes are hanging off my feet and I look like a tramp with no laces?" "thats because my trainers from TKMaxx cost less than one of your fanbelts and hence why they're now powering my waterpump and is why I need it today-not tomorrow" £3.95 from Halfords.

I wouldn't be too worried about the new Defender and put some trust in JLR- the L322 RR is probably one of the best cars in the world and just happens to be massively capable offroad, the RR Sport is again the best car in its class (think Merc ML and BMW X5 etc), Disco3&4 best tow of the year etc again highly capable offroad. All 3 models have either stuck to their main design briefs or created them in the case of the Sport. The Evoque and Freelanders created their own classes and havnt been beaten at it yet. I'm sure in a few years time when the new Defender is due to be released things will be looking better.

slap plenty of grease on everything, fit new bearings, tighten inner (1st nut) and rotate wheel/hub at same time to settle bearings/push excess grease out of the way, back nut off again until loose make sure your hands are oily/greasey, grab hub nut socket and tighten inner nut as hard as possible until your grip on the socket slips (only grip the socket-not the T bar/breaker bar/ratchet etc-just the socket or box spanner thingy) fit tab washers, tighten outer nut till you fart (pretty tight) knock tab washer over inwards and outwards onto both nuts. Never any problems doing it this way.

nah-sadly I had to cut them down in length. I had tried normal cotton string first but it shredded itself so had to resort to the laces. My Renault Clio Cup driving passenger was completely bemused by the whole episode and I think by Landrovers in general after the weekend.

Driving home on a motorway after a weekend's mountain biking in wales and the fan belt let go, pulled over on hardshoulder, removed shoe laces from trainers and tied round the crank, waterpump and alternator pulleys. Re-started and everything worked ok, pulled off at next junction found a Halfords.

+1 for the raptor also

I made a handbrake lock for my 110 using a press to latch/lock but key needed to unlock cylinder (if that makes sense?) Like you say the problem is the cable is easily cut from underneath and is too difficult to 'armour'. I just look at it as another layer of security coupled with the visable disklok and clutchclaw (as well as 2more hidden electrical and 1 more physical security items)

I just did them with a battery drill and each half stuck in a vice-they were worn out so it was worth tinkering with them before they went in the bin, they turned out well enough to put back on and use since. I did run a countersinking bit into the top of the bulkhead half just to help the drill bit centre itself, I might have drilled progressively bigger holes-I cant remember, but it was easy enough to do. The door hinges are actually quite complex angular items-I drew one up in autocad for machining some up but with a spherical bearing as the rotating member; http://www.medwaypt.co.uk/MPT_Spherical.pdf but it was getting quite expensive so never went any further. i'l hopefully take some more pics tomoz.

Sorry I dont have the pics on my PC, I'll have to take some new ones but the hinges are on my 110 in pretty much the same state as pics above-they're still working well!

yep, on the side of the pump that face inwards towards the engine block there will be an antitamper cover lock wired on if its never been tampered with before-remove this and underneath is a 10mm headed bolt with a 13mm locknut up against the body of the pump. Loosen locknut and wind the 10mm headed bolt in till it smokes. I fitted a gas flowed head so had to wind it in quite a lot to provide the extra fuel needed to match the increased gas flow. Try it a turn at a time to be on the safe side.

The metal PAS tank is the best one because it has an intergral filter-the plastic ZF style has no filter-any carp that gets in ends up whizzing round the pump and box forever. Regarding airboxes-Donaldson supplied the MOD with 'Iraq proof' airboxes. These fit straight onto a 300tdi in the same place as the original air box if you use the proper Donaldson mounting clamp. You can also use these on a TD-I have one on a NA and they flow loads more air than the standard setup-Im running a ported head so it really made a difference. It can also be used for a 200tdi allthough you have to route the vapour return line from the rocker cover into a seperate catch tank as the Donaldosn has no hose inlet. Pics of the ones I were selling are here to give you a bit more info-no longer for sale-decided to keep hold of them but Im sure there are some on Ebay. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64673&st=0&p=558335&fromsearch=1entry558335

worn output shaft splines on the gearbox/transfer box input gear?