Series owner looking for RRC

[jordan_meakin]

So, I've been a series owner for over ten years in different forms but now have a hankering to own a RRC. The trouble and strife won't drive the series and we've recently sold her car so I'm thinking it would be a good alternative that she'll at least try. She did used to drive my Volvo 240/940 so big isn't an issue.

I'm looking for advice on what to look for in a new purchase, please? I haven't set my sights on a fuel type yet - I don't do massive miles so petrol isn't an issue but equally open to diesel. What are the weak points? Desirable points? Having dealt with rotten series many times, I'm keen to avoid that! Furthermore, if anyone knows of a decent one in Essex, I'm interested before rummaging through eBay and the like. Not after concourse but mechanically sound at least.

Thanks in advance!

[Snagger]

RRs suffer far worse rust than the Series vehicles, and it's harder to repair.  Sills, rear body cross member, boot floor, wheel arches and the bottoms of all the pillars are the common spots, but not the limit of the problem.  Have a look at George's (forum member Shackleton) restoration on the videos "Soup", or just google Range Rover rust to see how bad it usually is.  Great cars, but made by BL.  I bought a 95 Classic, and I love it to bits (literally - it's in bits now), and it's the body shell that scares me the most about restring it.

Be wary of diesels - many of them have been retro fit, and that can be a minefield, though some are done well.  Factory diesels like mine are good, though and you don't need to worry about fuel costs or fill up nearly as often.  I think they're more reliable than the V8, but Fridge will probably be along to dispute that! I do like the idea of a V8 more, but they seem to generate a lot more questions on here than Tdis.

Suspension can be an issue - the old ones have a Boge strut on the A-frame to self-level, and these are almost all worn out now.  They're also irreplaceable, long out of production.  Stiffer rear springs gets around the problem, and I'm happy with the ride on mine, but it is firmer than intended for the luxury vehicle.  Electronic Air Suspension is reputed to be great, but it can be costly if much goes wrong with it.  Having tried only one with that system, my perspective is perhaps not very well informed, but I prefer the ride on coils, which are cheap and simple to deal with.  I though the EAS version a little hard and choppy, but it could have been faulty or had over-stiff dampers.

They have parallels with Series vehicles, and you can see the lineage, but they are very much more complicated electrically and much harder to fix the corrosion on.  If you can find a good one, though, yo'll love it, and it is a very practical car for a family.

[Davo]

If you're moving from a Series to a Range Rover, (which I have done, and which is a traditional step in Land Rover ownership), then you really, definitely, do not want one from after about the mid-80s. Those had more and more electricals and electronics and are absolute poop to deal with. Unfortunately these earlier models are now quite expensive, so you really have to look to find a good one without a silly price. They can also rust in about three dozen different places, (at least!), so doing your research first will really pay off. I use my '83 as an everyday family car in an outback town and it's been great. 

[geoffbeaumont]

EAS isn't expensive* to work on or repair, or difficult - though obviously if you don't like anything with wires it's to be avoided. The ride is firmer than a (standard, well maintained) coil sprung vehicle, but it's only harsh if the air spring bladders have gone hard with age. The trade off is better handling on the road, and less compromise (you have a higher than standard ride height off road, lower at cruising speed, instead of one-height-fits-all, and you can drop the car to even lower access height for loading). If one of the big attractions of a Range Rover Classic is the "magic carpet" ride, you won't achieve that on EAS - but you won't achieve it on a coiler either unless you can find one with a working self leveller. You should be aware that the EAS controller on the classic is somewhat eccentric - the version on the P38 is much less...characterful...Rover basically beta tested the system on classic owners. Depending on your wife's sense of humour that might not be a selling point for her (how would she view her car "dancing" when stopped on an uneven side slope with the engine running?).

* some parts - for instance complete air springs - can be pricey, but most can be rebuilt for a good deal less. E.g. bladders only on the air springs, seal kit for the pump.