Davo Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Do you have to go through one of the four big holes in the drive plate, or through that little hole in the bottom of the bellhousing? Neither of which have enough room to swing a spanner . . . The last automatic I took apart had the driveplate-to-converter bolts connecting the two directly together, with the bolts around the outside and easy to get to. This thing has a spacer and another plate and various bolts. I have to admit I'm stumped with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 It seems to look like this one inside: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/95486-discovery-39-v8-torque-converter/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Front of the bellhousing, remove the cover plate that is sort of half-moon shaped. Then, using a 3/8 ratchet, and maybe a short extension or a deep socket, go up behind the flex plate, and through the holes, and undo the 4 bolts. I think the bolts are 13mm, but that is a very hazy memory... Having the small circular cover off helps as well, as you can shine a light through it, and/or look through to ensure the socket is in the right place. If you are planning on dumping the autobox fluid, you can just yank the lot out, just be ready with a LARGE container to catch the ~4 litres of fluid that will pour out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 As always Bowie, a thousand thank-yous for your quick response. I still can't figure out how to get to those bolts but you did solve the problem. It's a car I'm wrecking so it's only a rolling chassis and the transmission is ready to be pulled out, and I'd forgotten that I could leave the converter attached and (hopefully) catch the torrent of ATF it will let loose. So I'll just do that instead. Which is why I have an LT95 in my Range Rover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 I can't remember if I did it through the hole in the bottom of the box or the semi circular tin guard at the bottom but I do remember it being a pain. I also remember the two top bell housing bolts being hard to get at. I think I used a lot of extension bars from behind whilst I was under the car. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Yeah, for the top bell housing bolts, I removed the engine mounts and dropped the whole engine down, then attack with either ratchet or ratcheting spanner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 That's a good idea, I could feel them with my hand but I couldn't get anything on them from the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Yep, pretty tight in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 3 hours ago, Bowie69 said: Yeah, for the top bell housing bolts, I removed the engine mounts and dropped the whole engine down, then attack with either ratchet or ratcheting spanner Hehe thats exactly what I did with my 300 Disco as well, put a small bottle jack between the Panhard and engine, lifted it up, removed the mounts and sunk it all the way down, then I could get to the bolts from the enginebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.