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RRC 15" wheel swap, good idea or not?


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Hi, so the old tank has 265/75/16's and I really don't like them! Basically the tyres are Kumho KH 71 (MT's)  and to say that they are a hard ride is an understatement, and I had a brown trouser moment with the same tyres and a Landcruiser in the wet.... I have been very wary of KH 71's ever since!

So why 15"? Simple, I have a Jeep jeep! (yes I know the difference!) which has 5x 33/12.5/15, that have covered only a few hundred miles (they still have the blue stuff on them) and the Jeep is going nowhere fast... So I thought about using them on the Rangie :D

I don't think that anyone here will have issues with a Jeep being stripped to keep a Rangie going!

Now the tricky bit... As I've given up smoking, I have no desire to install 'Carlos Fandango Super Wide Wheels', and cos I've a 4 door RRC arch flares are a pain to sort out on the rear. So with that in mind what size rims should I be looking at.... The RRC already has +2" springs and a 2" body lift and a set of 50mm spacers (to stop the ratcheting turning, didn't work that well got to do the steering stops!)

I'm drawn to 15x8's, but they are a very rare beast S/H, and I also have reservations about the tyres bulging too much and causing even more issues with the steering clearance.  I have stumbled across a set of 15x7's S/H but I'm not sure if the tyres would like being squeezed that much, they are Cooper STT's (loude spec!!)

Or should I go with 15x10's and hack up the doors and body tub?

And are there any fitment issues with 15" rims and vented discs, as that is the next thing on the improvement list!

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For 12.5" tyres, you really need a 10" rim, anything less will be borderline dangerous on the road.

If you look up the size of tyre you have, check the manufacturer's site, they often list min and max rim sizes, and I wouldn't go outside this really...

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As Bowie says, check the manufacturers site, they will list the min/max widths. Mine are 37x12.5x16 Maxxis Trepadors, the UK site doesn't show any info but the US site shows 8.5-11" as the recommended widths.

As for the 15" wheels, I'm sure they fit fine on there... I'm sure I remember there being lots of 15" wheel and tyre options a few years back.

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I think you might not realize how Little room there is for a large tyre in the arches of a rangie? With 33x 12,5s you are going to have to cut, especially in the back. Unless you go big lift, lowered bumpstops and don't go off road :D The largest I've ever seen squeesed in there without any trimming and just able to Work offroad is a 31x10.5. Not to rain on your parade but its just my experience. And the narrower the Wheel the easier it is to stuff it all in then, and don't be tempted to go spacers or Deep-dish then you'l really have to cut!

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Err... got a body lift already!

And I know that clearance is an issue, as the 265/75/16's aren't exactly a good fit to start with, they were on the car when I got it! I've added the spacers to give some sort of turning circle, as it was like steering the Titanic before! 

Ideally I'd like to go to 265/70/16's or even 255's to get the gearing more in line with std, but there are 2 issues with that plan. I detest 4 x 4 that have been lifted and then have silly stock wheels on, so I'd be looking to undo all the lifts... that wont be quick of cheap, or I'm into 5 new tyres and I wont fit carp, so that's going to be upwards of £600, again not cheap.

Oh and the gearing isn't that much of an issue as I have a 1.4:1 Defender transfer box to go on at some point.. just having a few issues with the speedo as it'd out of a late Def90 and has electronic sender not cable drive, and from what I can see the transfer cases are different at the output :angry: So that'll involve a D1 speedo pod as well... Who said Mechano was easy :lol:

Edited by miggit
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The 265 tyres generally come up around 31 - 31.5" diameter. You already know these don't fit well, so 33" is going to be a good bit worse.

255s are roughly 33" tall, I have a set on my 110, so I can tell you these ain't gonna fit in a Rangey wheel arch without surgery.

You say you have a 1.4:1 t/box to go on there, so I assume the truck currently has a 1.22:2 fitted. This will have gearing that'll be horribly tall with 33s fitted. I've been there ;)

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18 minutes ago, miggit said:

just having a few issues with the speedo as it'd out of a late Def90 and has electronic sender not cable drive, and from what I can see the transfer cases are different at the output

 

Late RRC uses a speed transducer... the t cases are different at the output, but you can swap the two between easily :) 

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That'll teach me to turn my back for 5 minutes!

Output of the transfer box, uses different bearings and I believe the shaft is different too... So I've got that feeling that it'll be tears before bed time!

Anyway I'd like to run a electronic speedo... the vague o meter in the RRC reads 30MPH as 20-40, and that's with a new cable... I have rather gotten used to the smooth operation of electronic, I had a Range Rover L322 for several years.. the speedo was about the only bit of electronics that didn't play up!!

And 1.4:1 gear ratio is slower than 1.22:1... the bigger number is how many times the gearbox has to turn to get one revolution out of the transfer... A Defender has bigger wheels than I'm running, but is way slower even though the axle ratios are the same...LR got their act together and started changing the output ratio of the transfer box, rather than produce loads of different differential sets.

And why would I not re-drill the rims living in the UK?

Finally, Who reprograms the speedos.. grass him up, I may have need of knowledge :D

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21 minutes ago, miggit said:

That'll teach me to turn my back for 5 minutes!

Output of the transfer box, uses different bearings and I believe the shaft is different too... So I've got that feeling that it'll be tears before bed time!

But they all use the same drive for the speedo, just different colour gears for different tyres.

Anyway I'd like to run a electronic speedo... the vague o meter in the RRC reads 30MPH as 20-40, and that's with a new cable... I have rather gotten used to the smooth operation of electronic, I had a Range Rover L322 for several years.. the speedo was about the only bit of electronics that didn't play up!!

And 1.4:1 gear ratio is slower than 1.22:1... the bigger number is how many times the gearbox has to turn to get one revolution out of the transfer... A Defender has bigger wheels than I'm running, but is way slower even though the axle ratios are the same...LR got their act together and started changing the output ratio of the transfer box, rather than produce loads of different differential sets.

33" tyres with the 1.2 transferbox will be horrible over geared. the 1.4 will be about right, my 90 had 33" and the 1.4 and it drove nicely. 

And why would I not re-drill the rims living in the UK?

You'll probably find the wheels are pressed around the hole to give a spring washer type effect, so just drilling them to suit wouldn't really work. 

Finally, Who reprograms the speedos.. grass him up, I may have need of knowledge :D

 

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sweet! that reduces the reasons not to do the job!!

But I'm still going to have a go at the D1 dash conversion, as it'll do away with the flexi drive speedo, and smooth things out!! It just means that I can do the gearbox swap first and use wobble drive till I'm feeling electrically minded:lol:

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