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18 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

There’s plenty of portal cars with the standard a frame. The only failures I’ve heard of was a blue 90 snapping the a frame ball joint at the tay forest challenge and someone ripping the chassis mounts off, so neither we’re failure of the a frame it’s self. There are plenty of other cars that have the same set up that are used far more violently with no issue. 
 

devon4x4 usedto make a billet a-frame extension to extend the fulcrum, PPcages make an extended tubular aframe that gigglepin use to great effect and Adrenalin4x4 make an extended tubular one with a rose joint at the end. So those are off the shelf alternatives but in all honesty I think you’ll be ok with the standard a frame. 
 

i forget where I got it from now but on mine I have a cast fulcrum replacement that allows me to use a creeper joint(3”Jonny joint) where I get a bit more movement than the normal ball joint before it binds and the axle is allowed a small amount of cushioning  through the bush, it’s also now a double sheer setup throughout
 

food for thought HTH

 

out of curiosity, why extend it? Are you not keeping the 88” wheel base?

 

Thanks for all that

Extending the wheelbase by very little,  possibly as little as 50mm 

By extending it I gain a wee bit more prop length, shortening the diffs has been a massive saving but finished diffs are still 50mm longer than Landrover diffs so that does not help with prop shaft length

Where did you get your fulcrum replacement?

Regards Stephen 

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5 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

Thanks for all that

Extending the wheelbase by very little,  possibly as little as 50mm 

By extending it I gain a wee bit more prop length, shortening the diffs has been a massive saving but finished diffs are still 50mm longer than Landrover diffs so that does not help with prop shaft length

Where did you get your fulcrum replacement?

Regards Stephen 

I want to say it was WKD but for a man if your calibre it’s wouldnt be hard to make.

you could probably get 50mm by making a fulcrum. Best of both worlds.

 

im at my workshop now so I’ll finish what I’m doing and crawl under the 110 and take a few photos

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I'd say you can hang a london bus of that. I have a suggestion though: the single ball joint becomes a bit of a weak spot with those portals and large wheels. I'd be inclined to suggest that replacing the a-frame with 2 straight links with ball joints or bushes at the ends is far stronger, and easier to engineer.

Daan

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42 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

 

I pulled my back climbing under there😂

Ahhh Doug if your pulling your back out like that you need to stay away from mog axles....lol

But you probably already know that regards Stephen

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I have another 30mm rose joint exactly the same as I'm using for the front so I could do something like this

20220401_145530.thumb.jpg.19e30eea27031eee94648a50464de112.jpg

20220401_150256.thumb.jpg.f581478e3f451ae09aa22ec803646448.jpg

I would easily gain the distance I need, it would involve some modifications to rear axle mount, but that's easy enough

The joint would allow axle to twist to 30 degrees, slightly more with a custom shaft

what do you think ? Regards Stephen 

Edit, standard landriver A frame joint only allows 20 degrees of travel

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IMO that’s the route you want to go but bolt the a frame to the car to work the geometry, looks like your mock up just comes out the back of the a frame, that will work but the bushes at the other end won’t last long. My one has the joint shank about 3” lower than the aframe bilts

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44 minutes ago, dangerous doug said:

IMO that’s the route you want to go but bolt the a frame to the car to work the geometry, looks like your mock up just comes out the back of the a frame, that will work but the bushes at the other end won’t last long. My one has the joint shank about 3” lower than the aframe bilts

Would be easy enough to lower it I could sharp machine a piece of billet and drill and tap lower down. 

In fact I could machine a piece of this 4" x 3" solid bar

20220401_161010.thumb.jpg.8394663ea56935faaf9e0a699d588260.jpg

regards Stephen 

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4 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

standard landriver A frame joint only allows 20 degrees of travel

home now so I can type. 30° should be plenty, the creeper joint has 40° of movement and I’m nowhere near maxing out the ball. Not sure the length of my shocks…15” maybe? It’s not maxed out in the photo but pretty close. Tyres are 37” for perspective 
4ACAC0B1-AF57-40C7-8935-C0FA480E5DE3.thumb.jpeg.f8c8a9a35f79dcc7594fe1a5cc09ade2.jpeg

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3 hours ago, dangerous doug said:

MMmmMMmmMmmMMMMMMmmm

my crystal ball tells me it’s already 60% done

5E6CCDEA-16A7-4172-8C7C-850A802C15AA.jpeg.cfd3ae6f909333a25ebcbad43c6b373e.jpeg

 

 

MMmmMMmmMmmMMMMMMmmm

Your Crystal ball is a bit optimistic for me ( sounds better than " full of s%%te" ).......

Machining, drilling, champhering, turning, tapping and that's without the mods to the rear axle for the changed set up

30% there and that's only because I've already got a chunk of metal..lol

Regards Stephen

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7 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:

MMmmMMmmMmmMMMMMMmmm

Your Crystal ball is a bit optimistic for me ( sounds better than " full of s%%te" ).......

Machining, drilling, champhering, turning, tapping and that's without the mods to the rear axle for the changed set up

30% there and that's only because I've already got a chunk of metal..lol

Regards Stephen

It’s an old model

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On 3/29/2022 at 4:45 PM, CwazyWabbit said:

How much gas do those things take to run? Just curious as to a cost per hour sort of thing (assuming you have to get your gas the normal way).

Used a third of a large cylinder over about 4 hours, full cylinder is £95 so a little over £30 equating to about £8 per hour, not too bad really regards Stephen

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