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Have purchased a pair of 404's to put under a lightweight obviously lots of thought and work required probably end up with a longweight my question is  do you flip the front axle to better align the diff with prop if so I was considering swapping the tubes instead dont know if any one has looked at this as an option I appreciate the axle tubes are double skinned  and will involve more work making jigs etc

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It usually involves flipping the axle casing (which can be done by unbolting the ends I think and rotate. The main problem is that these axles are too long and need shortening, which also needs a shorter driveshaft. Then you need a pignon conversion to connect the landrover propshafts to the axles. There are parts available on the shelf for all this, so a quick google should give you all you need.

For sure someone on here did all of this so can tell you more than I can.

Daan

 

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Your going to struggle with the long diffs/pinion conversion with that short wheel base but I’ve seen it done. There used to be a lightweight on Volvo axles floating about which was probibly one of the best looking challenge trucks I’ve ever seen. Best of luck, I envy you

 

 

as for the front axle,

remove the front diff and flip the crown wheel over to reverse the drive. Then run the front axle upside down to revert the drive the correct way, this negates cutting and shutting an axle casing and having a custom shaft made. 100% tried and tested and probably the best and most cost effective way of doing it. The rest is pretty straight forward.

When removing the diffs you need to engage the difflock,pull the shafts, rotate the diff(I forget which way) and wiggle it out, it won’t come out straight.

Some people have made really nice difflock actuators using air but the most simple I’ve seen was using a series 2 master cylinder to push a slave. He said it cost him about £45 per axle.

 

i have 2 unimog 404 diffs with the lockers aswell as wheels, tyres and drum brake parts for sale if your interested in spares. 

 

Its going to be a nice project, keep us updated

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Thanks for the prompt reply guys was that lightweight featured in a magazine I vaguely remember one on Volvo portals from years ago

Couple of things to add the pinion conversions and a full diameter half shaft with longer splines came with the axles I purchased along with 8 unimog rims also good to know their is some spares available through the forum

As it stands at the moment I am removing the hubs to machine down to fit landrover hubs whilst I know from reading the forums that its probably not the best way to go I have landrover hubs available so is cost effective for me. I appreciate this will increase the length of the already long axles but with some lathe work and custom brake discs ( looking to make some out of hardox 400 ) I reckon I can reduce the extra width by at least half.

So going to do disc conversions first so I can then measure how much I need to shorten the axles

Looking at the pinion conversion kits I think they could be streamlined a wee bit and then shorten the diff pinion to assist with fitting axles won't be much but every little helps in addition to the pinion conversion kits the splined ends from the unimog drive shafts were still on the diff so scope for making something with them

That's it for now if I can suss out how to add pictures of the conversion I will however I am much better with a hammer and welder than I am with computers thanks again guys

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Forgot to add looking at converting diff locks to air actuated as already run lockers so compressor already in vehicle thanks

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Machined one of the hubs down today pleasantly surprised at how easy it was but new tip in tool probably helped going to machine landrover hub back to bare bones and weld to mog hub I was thinking about fitting long wheel studs and mankind a disc that fits over outside of hub and in between wheel and hub to make disc removable although that will mean larger diameter rims

IMG_20180321_1252391_rewind.jpg

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Great stuff, keep us updated I like seeing different approaches to the ongoing topic of fitting portal axles. I have been involved in a couple myself and its a great challenge that can be done in 100s of ways. If you look up 'Mog90' in tools n fab I believe you'll find one of the ways we've done it. Eventually I found out that 411 axles are much better suited as they are equally strong but much narrower so there's plenty of room for discbrake conversion etc. without making the track too wide

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Question regarding welding landrover hub to unimog hub has anyone done this landrover hub ready to heat up and shrink on but will need securing with weld I was a bit dismayed that landrover hub is cast iron high nickle or even stainless rods seem to be recomended but would be good if someone has tackled this before and could advise

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So binned the landrover cast hub idea and made some out of steel all 4 made and welded on IMG_20180423_1113334_rewind.thumb.jpg.2b1d2463bdd450d1f1e1267002591849.jpg now looking to make some discs

Have also cut centres out of unimog rims and looking to weld landrover rim centres in however will need to make a jig to get everything square slow but steady progressIMG_20180404_1603347_rewind.thumb.jpg.6db3f7586d8293f5cd9cbfa5c64e8c89.jpgIMG_20180404_1604038_rewind.thumb.jpg.34858b21fa2b5541782183232bb9ec2c.jpg

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Good work, I’m looking forward to seeing how this comes out.

Hardox might not be the best choice of material for brake discs; OEM discs are extremely soft and easy to machine, hardox would probably give you some unexpected braking characteristics 

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Yup, brake discs are soft for a reason :) 

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But stainless discs on motorcycles are not soft in any way, and they work just fine? I've always wondered why no cars have stainless discs when so many motorcycles do? Obviously its probably mostly for aesthetics on a bike, but still they work just fine

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That was my thoughts with regard to motorcycle discs I may make out of both materials and see what the crack is

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Started welding landrover and unimog wheel sections together bit of a crude jig but does what it needs to doIMG_20180425_1946012_rewind.thumb.jpg.c81bd6382d46adb9a9d615fdb852d378.jpg

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Hi All

Been a while its amazing what takes priority over the nice to do stuff any way had the devil's own job getting some 2" plate to make discs from succeeded so got them rough cut and hours of endless machining all 4 discs completed one of the hubs pressed back onto portal box very tight and disc tried for clearance with portal casting looking ok going to run caller brackets off portal box bolts so thinking I need to make steel holder that picks up all portal flange bolts and also where the drum brake pivot points are hopefully this should be strong enough access to a profile cutter would be good but going to have to do it the long way will try and add photos later my Amazon fire keeps telling me I can't load due to low memory

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Have you had a look at dirtydiesel's thread - g-wagen on 404's?

Whereabouts are you ? I can profile plate on a HD plasma CNC up to 50mm and CNC gas above that .

Some pic's would be good when you can

cheers

Steve b

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Wow great offer however I live in the Scottish borders so not to worry gas axe and grinder will get me there only looking at 20mm plate with a couple of welded add ons for the brackets pics to follow

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I bet that took many hours and much swarf to clear away :) , what outer diameter have you ended up with ? 

cheers

Steve b

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What a Read !!!

 

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I think it took about 8-10hrs per disc very very boring forgive the pun Disc finished diameter is around 320mm and I plan on using Defender 110 calipers on the front and Discovery front or rear calipers on the back have not made my mind up yet. Will put the axle back together with rims on to measure up how much I need to shorten length by but no work this week as going on holiday for a few days

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So tyres and optimum size looking at changing from LT77 to R380 gearbox and purchasing a stubby bellhousing from Ashcroft have read on forum that transfer box from range rover auto is one of the ways to go but not easy to find which leads me back to tyres not much selection in the UK for 20 inch light truck tyres but considering buying 37 inch tall tyres hopefully to get a reasonable road speed back any thoughts would be appreciated as tyres could be an expensive mistake . Looking at Ashcroft stubby to help with prop shaft length later on in the project .Thanks in advance

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You don't need the actual range rover transfer box (I assume you mean the 1.003 ratio), just buy a ratio conversion kit from Ashcroft and rebuild whatever you can get hold of - that's what I did for my 109 five speed running 4.7 diffs. 

Cool project, I'll be following progress! 

Edited by lo-fi

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