Gazzar Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 I think it's fine. I dimly recall changing it a decade ago. Recently. I'll check it anyway. I'm thinking of making the nuts that attach the box to the bulkhead captive. It would make refitting a bit easier. If I attach then to the little brackets, that should do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 The other option is to make two steel strips, each with two captive bolts that you can push up from the inside of the foot well and hold in place with tape so you can get the washers and nuts on under the wing - that means you don't have problems replacing the fixings next time if they rust up and shear. Otherwise, fitting captive bolts to the matrix housing would allow you to put it in place and have it stay in position by itself while you fit the nuts inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnseries Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 I am looking for some help with my series 2a . About a year ago there was a company selling new heaters on eBay that would fit to the internal bulkhead with greatly improved performance but after scanning the web I can't seem to find them now I am ready to make a purchase does anybody have any idea what the company name was you could choose the size of the air outlet pipes many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Update. As it's roasting, I thought it a good idea to fit the refurbished heater box. It was very easy to do, a vise grips clamped to the bolt head in the cab made undoing the nuts easy. The hardest part was getting the concertina hose to fit snug on the input duct. There is a problem. The fan isn't working. I've no volts on the live going to the switch. It's an orange and brown wire, but I don't know where it gets its supply from. Any one know of the top of their head? It's amazing that the heater isn't on the wiring diagram! G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 Oh, and I found the source of the whistling noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 That looks a bit broke.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted June 9, 2018 Share Posted June 9, 2018 Look for a company called T7 - they sell good stuff. We're about to update the heater but not there yet. Awaiting the arrival of parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 9, 2018 Author Share Posted June 9, 2018 That's a recorder whistle, it was in the heater box. Probably from new. Those Brummies, such fun! Here's the new box: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 In line fuse, apparently, from the ignition switch. I'll look this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 3 hours ago, Gazzar said: In line fuse, apparently, from the ignition switch. I'll look this evening. That's what mine had. Fuse holder is white, so should be fairly easy to find in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 10, 2018 Author Share Posted June 10, 2018 Yes, found it, fuse had blown. Its now replaced and all is good. Typical LR - spare fuse holder in the fuse box, but they persist with an inline fuse hidden in the dash! There is some air leakage to the cab when on demist, so flap re-felting must be done soon. But all under the bonnet is as it should be. Next is to replace the radio, the crappy Aldi unit has died. Probably not it's fault - there's a lot of condensation on the roof, but I'm going to stick another unit in for now - as soon as I've found a DIN to ISO adaptor. All these little changes will make the cab more civilised in the wet and wintry days on the way to work. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 On 10/06/2018 at 8:31 PM, Gazzar said: Typical LR - spare fuse holder in the fuse box, but they persist with an inline fuse hidden in the dash! Yep, typical. Best to adapt the wiring to use one of those spare fuse slots so that future replacement is easy; I had the fuse blow at the beginning of a 4 hour, sub-zero drive wearing just a rugby shirt (everything else was packed). I was only 21 at the time, and couldn't do that now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 I think you are right. But not now. I don't want this to become another project, yet. Though when it does become a project, I'm fitting air con to the heater matrix. Binky inspired, it looks doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 12, 2018 Share Posted June 12, 2018 4 hours ago, Gazzar said: I think you are right. But not now. I don't want this to become another project, yet. Though when it does become a project, I'm fitting air con to the heater matrix. Binky inspired, it looks doable. The fuse change is hardly a mod - just a couple of spade terminals crimped onto the wires cut from the inline fuse holder and connected to the steering column fuse box spare. I mentioned the aircon idea in another thread - I think Defender matrix housings have the space for bigger matrices if the internal air flaps are removed and the heater matrix effect controlled by a water flow valve (like SIII and Binky) instead of the mixer flaps. The housing might even take a RRC matrix, which would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 12, 2018 Author Share Posted June 12, 2018 Extend the heater box, fit a couple of matrices piped back to back, the rest is standard disco AC stuff, switched by the temp lever in the cab. Simple? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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