14Platoon Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 Please help before I pour petrol over my beautiful Defender. Very irritating and wasted day today. My heater used to work perfectly, then for no apparent reason just stopped working??.. i checked all fuses as nowhere seems to list which fuse is for my heater blower.......mine is an ex military 90 on a 1992 plate. None of the fuses appear blown, all of 5he wiring appears intact, I have fitted a brand new switch lever, the blower turns freely by hand. The switch has no effect at all on the fan. Although I have a multimeter and despite several attempts to find out how to use it, I can’t. Can anyone tell me where the switch wires lead to so I can chance the line Does anyone have any idea why this would suddenly pack up, what am I missing? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 Resistor in heater box where the wires go in, this resistor controls the slow speed, the full speed is directly powered avioding the resistor. https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/72623-heater-fan-stopped-working/ https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/53643-heater-blower-motor-not-working/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 I have no speeds at all so could this still be the resistor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 if no full peed more likely a disconnected or broken wire, you can see the speed switch wiring by moving the instrument pack & looking in to the left of the housing, there should be 3 wires, for earth [plain black] full speed & slow speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 Already checked behind the cluster, all seems intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 find the 3 pin connector atbheater unit/resistor, clean & ensure it gets power with ignition ON & when the switch is moved to various postions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveturnbull Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 A slight quirk of these is that the 12v live always goes straight to the motor, its the earth that is switched and passes through the resistor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 Could the resistor have packed up, is that common? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 2 hours ago, western said: find the 3 pin connector atbheater unit/resistor, clean & ensure it gets power with ignition ON & when the switch is moved to various postions. Is the three pin connector inside or outside th3 housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 outside in left rear corner of engine bay, maybe tucked down next to heater unit, wires go into the resistor cover plate, 4 rivets secure this to heater casing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 15, 2018 Author Share Posted September 15, 2018 36 minutes ago, western said: outside in left rear corner of engine bay, maybe tucked down next to heater unit, wires go into the resistor cover plate, 4 rivets secure this to heater casing. I have a multimeter (more for tuning my beetle) but don’t know how to use it. Can you tell please me where to poke the multimeter so I can test the unit is getting power. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 15, 2018 Share Posted September 15, 2018 you could do with a wiring diagram to ident the wires, I'm away from home & mine isn't to hand, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Some pic's from google images The box assembly and The fan and motor Hope this helps cheers Steve b 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 (edited) On 9/15/2018 at 5:17 PM, western said: if no full peed more likely a disconnected or broken wire, you can see the speed switch wiring by moving the instrument pack & looking in to the left of the housing, there should be 3 wires, for earth [plain black] full speed & slow speed. I know The wire colours and they all look intact. Where do I find a resistor to buy? Edited September 16, 2018 by 14Platoon Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 PM Simonb on here, he did/does a resistor kit which increase the slower speed but retains the standard full speed, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Tdi-Td5-90-110-demister-fan-speed-increase-kit/163114242696?hash=item25fa5dd288:g:OtYAAOSwISNbfa90 I have one on my 110 which I no longer need,so would be willing to remove it & sell at a reduced price but inc postage, PM me for more details, but I am away weds/thurs/fri this week but can sort it at the weekend, I still have the instruction sheet too. or a new Genuine resistor http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/13822/UTP1281-DEFENDER-HEATER-BLOWER-HARNESS.html?search=UTP1281&page=1 hope your piggy bank is well topped up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 16, 2018 Author Share Posted September 16, 2018 2 hours ago, western said: PM Simonb on here, he did/does a resistor kit which increase the slower speed but retains the standard full speed, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Tdi-Td5-90-110-demister-fan-speed-increase-kit/163114242696?hash=item25fa5dd288:g:OtYAAOSwISNbfa90 I have one on my 110 which I no longer need,so would be willing to remove it & sell at a reduced price but inc postage, PM me for more details, but I am away weds/thurs/fri this week but can sort it at the weekend, I still have the instruction sheet too. or a new Genuine resistor http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/13822/UTP1281-DEFENDER-HEATER-BLOWER-HARNESS.html?search=UTP1281&page=1 hope your piggy bank is well topped up. Thanks for your offer I might take you up on that. One things puzzling me though, I have nothing at all, no fast or slow speed. If the resistor only deals with the slow speed and I have no fast speed, this would appear to be another problem apart from the resistor. Or do I have that wrong🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 Double check the wires are on the correct terminals, not much else to go wrong with it, are the fuse clips nice & clean ? the other alternative is one of these terminals marked on this photo of my removed left control slider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) Start by checking for 12V at the wires going into the switch with the ignition on. If power there, you have a ground issue at the switch. If no power then note those two wire colours and check those same wires at the blower connector. The blower connector only has three wires. The two that go to the switch and a power wire. Purple/Green - 12V power, with ignition on, from fuse panel. You should have 12V there with ignition on. If not, move to fuse. It is the 10A fuse that has the fan symbol. Green/Slate and Green/Yellow are the wires that go to the switch from the blower. Edited September 17, 2018 by Red90 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 3 hours ago, Red90 said: Start by checking for 12V at the wires going into the switch with the ignition on. If power there, you have a ground issue at the switch. If no power then note those two wire colours and check those same wires at the blower connector. The blower connector only has three wires. The two that go to the switch and a power wire. Purple/Green - 12V power, with ignition on, from fuse panel. You should have 12V there with ignition on. If not, move to fuse. It is the 10A fuse that has the fan symbol. Green/Slate and Green/Yellow are the wires that go to the switch from the blower. Any ideas where the ground is grounded too,Is it behind the dash or elsewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 goes through bulkhead to a bunch of earth wires bolted to engine side of bulkhead adjacent to the clutch master cylinder, remove the screw/bolt & clean all the terminals [usually ring end type] check all the terminals are secure on each wire & refit, smear some vaseline over the lot once resecured to bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) Despite an extensive look, I can’t find that bank of earth terminals 🤔 Is there a way I can just completely retire the blower, then I’ll know what I’m working with. Oh, I did find some rust though🙄 Edited September 17, 2018 by 14Platoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Have you done any testing? Do you have power at the switch? If so, you just need to earth the earth terminal to anything you want. YOU need to go through and troubleshoot and not simply randomly try things. Or find someone local that understand automotive electrics to give you a hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) Not done any testing Red 90, I have a nice multimeter but don’t really know how to use it in this situation. I’m happy for anyone to explain it to me (like a 5 year old). Hw do I test if I have power at the switch with a multimeter? Dont really want to farm the work out, I’m tight and wouldnt mind the pleasure of finding the problem. I understand what you mean re the earth, I could use an earth test cable temporarily so that’s a great idea 👍🏻 Edited September 17, 2018 by 14Platoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 1 hour ago, 14Platoon said: Despite an extensive look, I can’t find that bank of earth terminals 🤔 at the marked screw on this pic from my 110. between clutch master cylinder & fuel filter head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 17, 2018 Author Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) 31 minutes ago, western said: at the marked screw on this pic from my 110. between clutch master cylinder & fuel filter head Hmmm that doesn’t appear or be there on mine in fact I can’t find any earths like that 🤔 Edited September 17, 2018 by 14Platoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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