Heater........V irritating

[western]

take a few photo's of the bulkhead around the same area & post them in here, you can upload direct from your pc using the -- Choose files link below the post a reply text box 

 

[Ex Member]

You will have an earth on the bulkhead.  It can be hiding behind wiring.

Re: the multimeter.  Put in in DC Volt mode.  Put one lead on the terminal you are testing and the other to a good earth point.  You should get 10 to 13 Volts.  I did not mean to suggest that you pay someone.  I meant find a friend or find a local LR enthusiast to have a look.   This is the purpose of having friends.

[14Platoon]

I’ll do both when I get home tonight and I’ll post the photos up. 

[14Platoon]

[14Platoon]

I wired I'm a temp earth, still no joy. I put the Red lead from a multimeter on the switch with ignition on and the black to the vehicle body earth, no reading at all. Not convinced I've used the multimeter correctly thigh. Black was in common and the red in 10a and dial switched to 10a

[simonb]

You need the multimeter set to volts and the red lead in the socket marked V not A. You will have blown the fuse in the multimeter and may have blown a vehicle circuit fuse as you have created a short circuit across the ignition with the multimeter. If the red probe is in a "V" socket on the meter, (and then connected as before) you should get a reading of battery voltage.

[steve b]

In your first pic above there are earth wires with ring terminals to left of fuel filter housing just behind the leak-off return fixed by a screw.

Set your meter as simon suggests and as a first test put a probe on each battery terminal to check the function - you should see 12 or 13 v , with black on the +ve terminal it will show -12v . You really need to check the voltage at the 3 pin connector outside the heater box , usually in the space above the footwell between the box and wing , possibly clipped to underside edge of the wing top .

cheers

Steve b

[14Platoon]

Slow speed and fast speed at switch read 0.05

3pin connectir at box reads green and purple lead from loom  going into heater box reads 0.20 green and slate from loom into box reads 0 green and yellow reads 0

 

 

Edited September 18, 2018 by 14Platoon

[14Platoon]

Ps all those readings are gobbledygook to me🤷🏻‍♂️

[14Platoon]

40 minutes ago, steve b said:

In your first pic above there are earth wires with ring terminals to left of fuel filter housing just behind the leak-off return fixed by a screw.

Set your meter as simon suggests and as a first test put a probe on each battery terminal to check the function - you should see 12 or 13 v , with black on the +ve terminal it will show -12v . You really need to check the voltage at the 3 pin connector outside the heater box , usually in the space above the footwell between the box and wing , possibly clipped to underside edge of the wing top .

cheers

Steve b

How you saw those earths I do not know, all appear intact. I also wired a separate earth with no joy. 

[steve b]

They are in the as built location , on later defenders it is usually to the right of the clutch pedal box on the footwell . Your readings suggest no supply volts . A temp live connected to the green/purple at the heater box connector should prove if it is a duff supply . The fan switch should work normally with the temp. live if all else is ok .

Keep at it , you are making progress

Steve b

[Ex Member]

1 hour ago, simonb said:

You will have blown the fuse in the multimeter and may have blown a vehicle circuit fuse as you have created a short circuit across the ignition with the multimeter. 

He did not create a short circuit.  He was simply completing the correct circuit.  It is ground switched.

[Ex Member]

If there is no power at the switch, you next should go and check for power at the fuse for the heater.

[14Platoon]

12 minutes ago, steve b said:

They are in the as built location , on later defenders it is usually to the right of the clutch pedal box on the footwell . Your readings suggest no supply volts . A temp live connected to the green/purple at the heater box connector should prove if it is a duff supply . The fan switch should work normally with the temp. live if all else is ok .

Keep at it , you are making progress

Steve b

 

13 minutes ago, steve b said:

They are in the as built location , on later defenders it is usually to the right of the clutch pedal box on the footwell . Your readings suggest no supply volts . A temp live connected to the green/purple at the heater box connector should prove if it is a duff supply . The fan switch should work normally with the temp. live if all else is ok .

Keep at it , you are making progress

Steve b

Thanks for the replies. 

So if I connect a temp live to the purple green going into the box this should work the heater, even though this wire was the only one showing a reading of any sort? 

If this is the case then can I run a lead direct off the battery to the green purple going into the box? 

Ps why has this wire got a reading but not powering it? 

Thanks 

[14Platoon]

6 minutes ago, Red90 said:

If there is no power at the switch, you next should go and check for power at the fuse for the heater.

I checked all fuses and all appear intact. Unfortunately the wires aren't labelled into the fuse box and no diagram sticker to go with it. Also its ex radio Military so a lot of extra non standard wiring. 

Do the readings I supplied suggest no power at the switch? 

Edited September 18, 2018 by 14Platoon

[Ex Member]

Use your meter to check the fuses.  Just because the look okay, it does  not mean they are.  Regardless, you need to see if there is power there to determine where to look next.

You need to be seeing 12 Volts, assuming you are doing it right.  Practice at the fuses and you should figure out how it works.

[14Platoon]

7 minutes ago, Red90 said:

Use your meter to check the fuses.  Just because the look okay, it does  not mean they are.  Regardless, you need to see if there is power there to determine where to look next.

You need to be seeing 12 Volts, assuming you are doing it right.  Practice at the fuses and you should figure out how it works.

Good tip

Do I keep the multimeter settings the same, earth the black and hold the red on the fuse? 

Where do you manage to get the red into a bladed fuse? 

Thanks 

[Ex Member]

Just now, 14Platoon said:

Good tip

Do I keep the multimeter settings the same, earth the black and hold the red on the fuse? 

Where do you manage to get the red into a bladed fuse? 

Thanks 

Yes.  The back of the fuse has metal sticking through that you can use the probe on.

See attached for the fuse label.  #4 is the heater blower.

[Ex Member]

Just check for voltage with the ignition on as you need to see if the fault is the fuse or elsewhere. 

Edited September 18, 2018 by Red90

[14Platoon]

I'll get on it tomorrow as it's now dark and I'll give an update. 

Many thanks 

[western]

the others have said where the earth point is but a variant of your photo to confirm. 

[14Platoon]

Fuse check complete. 

Ignition on, some fuses showed a reading and some showed zero. With the ones showing zero I guessed wired negative, switched to diode and got a beep on each as I tested. 

N the others that showed zero and only had one test hole on the fuse, I swapped these with kn Wn good fuses and no change. 

I changed the blower fuse as shown on the fuse layout and no change?

im starting to give up now 

[Ex Member]

Was there power at the blower fuse?

[14Platoon]

1 hour ago, Red90 said:

Was there power at the blower fuse?

Number 4 fuse showed zero on a 7.5 fuse on normal test so I changed to diode. On putting the red and black on either end of the fuse in situ, the multimeter beeped. I’m guessing that meant it was intact?

[Ex Member]

The fuse is fine, but you are not getting power to the fuse block.  So your problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel.  You sort of have two options.

 

1) Pull the fuse panel and start following the wire to locate the fault.

2) Run a new power wire.