14Platoon Posted September 19, 2018 Author Share Posted September 19, 2018 20 minutes ago, Red90 said: The fuse is fine, but you are not getting power to the fuse block. So your problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. You sort of have two options. 1) Pull the fuse panel and start following the wire to locate the fault. 2) Run a new power wire. Running a new wire sounds like a good option although being military there’s not too much stuff in the way. Where would I run a power wire to and from 🤔 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 To run a new wire, you need to know what you are doing and, I think, at this point, you would need someone there that understands electrical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 4 hours ago, Red90 said: To run a new wire, you need to know what you are doing and, I think, at this point, you would need someone there that understands electrical. I made a loom for a VW Beetle before, that was pretty simple as I just found where the wires started and ended. If I know where this one starts and ends I can just replace it I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Any ideas how to do a Hotwire test to the motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Ref the resistor I mentioned last sunday, I'm back home now, so will remove it & associated wiring & dig out the fitting info. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 5 minutes ago, western said: Ref the resistor I mentioned last sunday, I'm back home now, so will remove it & associated wiring & dig out the fitting info. From the above comments, it doesn’t appear to be the resistor unless I’ve confused myself? Wiring diagram would be great and much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Wiring Diagram. Defender FFR Wiring diagram.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 Land Rover are great for learning stuff on, but I've seen many go up in flames due to diy wiring errors as the loom is tightly bunched with unfused high current cables. You shouldn't need to make a new wire to feed the heater motor, you just need to find the break in the circuit - there isn't much to the loom, and it's only an arms span from switch to heater so not difficult to trace. Making a little pencil diagram of the circuit including the switch, fuse terminals, motor will help you measure between each point and the next methodically and understand it better. Before you go too far though, identify the fuse for the heater and check both sides of the fuse are getting 12v, and also check the actual wire terminals on the back of the fuseboard are getting power- very common to get light surface corrosion on the terminals, especially the older glass type fuses, which needs to be cleaned up thoroughly to make the contact good. Make sure your volunteer is set to DC in the 0-20v range, and bare in mind that even if a terminal shows 12v, a corroded terminal or threadbare wire hanging on by the last strand may not deliver enough amps to power a bulb or motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 2 hours ago, 14Platoon said: From the above comments, it doesn’t appear to be the resistor unless I’ve confused myself? Wiring diagram would be great and much appreciated added the wire colours for each function to my previous photo of the left heater blower control slider. if you do want the alternative resistor just let me know by PM. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 2 hours ago, Eightpot said: Land Rover are great for learning stuff on, but I've seen many go up in flames due to diy wiring errors as the loom is tightly bunched with unfused high current cables. You shouldn't need to make a new wire to feed the heater motor, you just need to find the break in the circuit - there isn't much to the loom, and it's only an arms span from switch to heater so not difficult to trace. Making a little pencil diagram of the circuit including the switch, fuse terminals, motor will help you measure between each point and the next methodically and understand it better. Before you go too far though, identify the fuse for the heater and check both sides of the fuse are getting 12v, and also check the actual wire terminals on the back of the fuseboard are getting power- very common to get light surface corrosion on the terminals, especially the older glass type fuses, which needs to be cleaned up thoroughly to make the contact good. Make sure your volunteer is set to DC in the 0-20v range, and bare in mind that even if a terminal shows 12v, a corroded terminal or threadbare wire hanging on by the last strand may not deliver enough amps to power a bulb or motor. Only a temporary wire to test if the motor is blown or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Perfect thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 1 hour ago, western said: added the wire colours for each function to my previous photo of the left heater blower control slider. if you do want the alternative resistor just let me know by PM. Thank you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 Due to it being military most of the wires are pretty simple to get to. I have gained access behind the clocks and can see the fuses and where the loom goes into the fuse board. Is the length of the loom behind the dash between clocks and the blower easy to get to? It’s this part of the loom I can’t see at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 2 hours ago, Eightpot said: Land Rover are great for learning stuff on, but I've seen many go up in flames due to diy wiring errors as the loom is tightly bunched with unfused high current cables. You shouldn't need to make a new wire to feed the heater motor, you just need to find the break in the circuit - there isn't much to the loom, and it's only an arms span from switch to heater so not difficult to trace. Making a little pencil diagram of the circuit including the switch, fuse terminals, motor will help you measure between each point and the next methodically and understand it better. Before you go too far though, identify the fuse for the heater and check both sides of the fuse are getting 12v, and also check the actual wire terminals on the back of the fuseboard are getting power- very common to get light surface corrosion on the terminals, especially the older glass type fuses, which needs to be cleaned up thoroughly to make the contact good. Make sure your volunteer is set to DC in the 0-20v range, and bare in mind that even if a terminal shows 12v, a corroded terminal or threadbare wire hanging on by the last strand may not deliver enough amps to power a bulb or motor. I’ll check again on the fuse board side if things now I know I’m definitely looking at the right wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 This is great stuff guys the job seems fairly simple in my head now, thanks to all the info you’ve all provided. From your info, I’m happy it’s not the resistor as there are no speed issues, there is just no power. If I check the wires tomorrow and can’t find anything then tha5 just leaves me to check the motor.....hopefully you can help me with the Hotwire test 🤗 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 21, 2018 Share Posted September 21, 2018 20 minutes ago, 14Platoon said: Due to it being military most of the wires are pretty simple to get to. I have gained access behind the clocks and can see the fuses and where the loom goes into the fuse board. Is the length of the loom behind the dash between clocks and the blower easy to get to? It’s this part of the loom I can’t see at the moment. loom runs from instrument pack long the bottom forward edge of dash below the black tray, then down centre to fuse box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 21, 2018 Author Share Posted September 21, 2018 1 hour ago, western said: loom runs from instrument pack long the bottom forward edge of dash below the black tray, then down centre to fuse box. Nice one 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 I took my heater blower off today (in prep from r garage vent repair). Behind the blower is the large metallic earth strap which was disconnected due to wear and tear. Does this earth strap have a purpose with regards to the heater 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 Nope, as a FFR variant it was probably attached to the inside of bonnet hinge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted September 22, 2018 Author Share Posted September 22, 2018 23 minutes ago, western said: Nope, as a FFR variant it was probably attached to the inside of bonnet hinge. There’s one on the other bonnet hinge too. The motor in the heater box is quite loose. Now it’s all out I can have a good check around. Not seen any obvious breaks in the wire though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 With the heater off the Defender, if I attach one wire to a car battery negative and one to the power, will I blow myself up or will this test the blower motor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 if you use the plain black earth wire & the fast speed wire as in my reply above, motor should run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 2 hours ago, western said: if you use the plain black earth wire & the fast speed wire as in my reply above, motor should run. Excellent I’ll give that a go. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 See, the Land Rover is starting to make a mechanic of you 😁 Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 21 hours ago, 14Platoon said: Excellent I’ll give that a go. Cheers did it run ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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