Tim2809 Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) sorry for long winded post. 1989 110 fitted with r380 and 300tdi from a disco. fitted new clutch and all was well but a spring broke so replaced whole clutch and since new clutch fitted its biting point is right at the top and just the weight of boot taking free play out causes it to slip. with 3.5ton on towbar it still fully disengages and only slips if foot rested on pedal. i dont drive with foot resting on it but when pulling away i have to fully remove boot between gear change. its been like it since changing the clutch original clutch was ok, biting point 3/4 way down. ive tried complete pedal box and slave off known good defender and tried mine on his and same result using his. have changed master, slave, flexi hose and new metal pipe for genuine and no different. have set pedal per manual, also tried leaving nuts loose and over adjusting so pedal is pulling master back and holding pedal off its stop. im about to do gearbox change as whining in 4th and 5th so anything i may be missing and need to check. its a well known clutch and not a cheap blue box clutch Edited November 9, 2018 by Tim2809 appology for long post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Slave cylinder pushrod to long, clutch fork clip missing for your engine/gearbox combination slave pushrod should be FTC912. item 8 page 330 in http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/parts_books/110/4_gearbox_transfer_box_p300-397.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 clutch fork clip is fitted. its the same pushrod and fork set up on old clutch which was fine which is whats baffling me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 Clutch in backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 weird its the same parts which worked with no problem previously, can't think of anything else that would make it slip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 9, 2018 Author Share Posted November 9, 2018 looking at pics i do seem to be missing number 9. never had it since the engine box transplant clutch is fitted correct way around. only thing coming to mind is if cover plate springs are weaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 9, 2018 Share Posted November 9, 2018 (edited) item 4 isn't needed for everyday, its just a retaining plastic clip to keep the 2 slipper pads in place while assembly is being done, they can be left out with no ill effect, I don't bother with them, do you have a overdrive fitted ? cos mine caused clutch slip, once it was removed the slipping disappeared. Edited November 10, 2018 by western part ident in link corrected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 no overdrive. no9 says backing plate. looks like a gasket between box and slave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 the backing plate isn't needed either my 110 has never had on fitted, doubt it would make any big difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 If you are concerned about the slave/pushrod length, then measure them. You just measure how much the pushrod is sticking out and how far the slave pushes in. You need to ensure there is slave travel remaining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 will have a measure but i think its more a clutch cover issue as it was fine with previous clutch. nothing changed apart from cover and centre plate. dont want to spend £150 to find the current clutch is not at fault Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowmeover Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 Same thing happened to me, new clutch , biting at top of pedal, bleeding the hell out of it helped, I changed pretty much everything to try and get to the bottom of it, the only thing I didn't replace was the fork. It's still not right but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 mine works fine and when i changed it in july i removed engine so hydraulics were not disturbed. have tried other hydraulics since. apart from measuring the pushrod im 99% convinced its the springs weak in the cover got a whining gearbox to change so want to sort clutch at same point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowmeover Posted November 10, 2018 Share Posted November 10, 2018 What make is it and where did you buy it? It would be interesting to see if we both bought the same one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 10, 2018 Author Share Posted November 10, 2018 13 minutes ago, blowmeover said: What make is it and where did you buy it? It would be interesting to see if we both bought the same one. pm sent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowmeover Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Different kits, mine was a Valeo. I just jogged my memory on this and it was my spigot bush, it had fallen apart and was sitting proud of the flywheel, this in turn put the clutch plate proud, I had other issues too, clutch fork had not seated correctly, gearbox was out three times. I made a tool to insert a new bush, I used a socket that was a good fit inside the bush then put a nut , bolt and big washer through it, this meant the washer drifted the bush in evenly and the socket stopped it from warping and cracking. Aligning the clutch is very important as jiggling the gearbox in can easily damage the bush. Always use a genuine bush from Land Rover, they don't cost much and are pre soaked in oil, the quality difference between them and aftermarket is very obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 new spigot bush fitted and ive got an input shaft out another box for alignment so slots in easy. have heard valeo quality has dropped of late 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 Is it possible to remove the slave cylinder and inspect the release bearing through the hole? I am wondering if it is seated correctly on the fork. With you saying that you can back off the pedal adjustment and still have no free play I am wondering if it is something mechanical rather than hydraulic. If there is no free play, the release bearing won't last very long either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 53 minutes ago, Roverdrive said: Is it possible to remove the slave cylinder and inspect the release bearing through the hole? I am wondering if it is seated correctly on the fork. With you saying that you can back off the pedal adjustment and still have no free play I am wondering if it is something mechanical rather than hydraulic. If there is no free play, the release bearing won't last very long either. ive not done that to be honest anout the only thing ive not done. what are you thinking it may have slipped and hooked up being the tube of the release bearing? when i say ive backed it off on the master push rod this was so i guaranteed it was being pulled fully out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted November 11, 2018 Share Posted November 11, 2018 That was what I was thinking. I don’t know if it is possible but I can’t think of anything else that hasn’t already been suggested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 11, 2018 Author Share Posted November 11, 2018 will check tomorrow. have a mirror on a stick so will whip slave out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2809 Posted November 12, 2018 Author Share Posted November 12, 2018 On 11/11/2018 at 3:39 PM, Roverdrive said: That was what I was thinking. I don’t know if it is possible but I can’t think of anything else that hasn’t already been suggested borrowed bore scope as cannot see directly from slave hole. release bearing is sat correctly. i suppose i will find out what it is when i pull the box out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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