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TD5 10p/15p


TobyMellin

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My 2000 90 TD5 has been smoking quite a bit for a while now and a compression test confirmed cylinder 2 was low.

I've been pondering for a while now whether to pull it and rebuild it. As of yesterday afternoon, the cylinder head has failed...again. Header tank was empty and engine locked when I went top start it up this morning. After turning it over by hand I've now concluded the head has cracked again after filling the yard with white smoke.

I've decided I'm going to throw another 'known good' engine in out of a friend who is breaking a few Discoverys.

 

My question is...should I carry on with the 10p engine, or put a 15p in? 

I can't see any reason why a 15p wouldn't run off the 10p ECU once the injectors are coded? Or would I need the 15p ECU aswel?

Are here any benefits to putting the 15p in?

Has anyone on here done the swap?

 

I'm a truck mechanic so the swap is not a problem, it's just the differences between the 2 engines I am unsure of.

Thanks in advance

Toby

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If it's a fairly straight forward swap (i'm limited on time), then I will throw a 15p in. I just haven't got the time to be going getting pipes made, making brackets etc.

To be honest....I have a feeling my remap has something to do with the constant head cracking (this is the 3rd cylinder head to crack in 3 years....)

It does overfuel quite a lot (black smokes heavily under load) and I am loaded quite a lot of the time due to my fitted toolbox/racking etc and towing trailers.

The map will be getting changed as soon as the head/engine is swapped.

 

Thanks

Toby

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The fuel pressure is different between the two so you would need the correct ECU along with the injector codes. And also the fuel pressure regulator is different too.

Have you pressure tested the cylinder head so you know it's definitely cracked and not just the cylinder head moving because of the plastic dowels and/or the head gasket itself failing?

The compression test - was it down down the glow plug holes (probably not as there's only 4!) or injector holes? Could be a copper washer at fault? 

Steve

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45 minutes ago, steve200TDi said:

The fuel pressure is different between the two so you would need the correct ECU along with the injector codes. And also the fuel pressure regulator is different too.

Have you pressure tested the cylinder head so you know it's definitely cracked and not just the cylinder head moving because of the plastic dowels and/or the head gasket itself failing?

The compression test - was it down down the glow plug holes (probably not as there's only 4!) or injector holes? Could be a copper washer at fault? 

Steve

Hi Steve,

I have the proper Sykes Pickavant pressure tester that goes in the injector hole.

The head is still on at the moment. Unfortunately this isn't the first time it has happened (this is head No3 in 2 years!). It also has steel dowels fitted from when I previously did the head.

I also changed the injector seals/washers about 2 months ago due to a starting issue, which the seals/washers cured.

I'm leaning towards just replacing with another 10p. I've been looking to swap to a 110 for a while anyway, so maybe this is the time.

I have attached a picture of the previous head crack, from coolant gallery in to cylinder 3.

Thanks

Toby

 

TD5 head.jpg

Edited by TobyMellin
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Ok, yes you could replace it.

So yes you've done a compression test, but I was also referring to a pressure tested the cylinder head i.e. strip cylinder head block up all holes and fill with water on the fuel and coolant side and see if it holds pressure. Then you can see if it has cracked!

Steve

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5 minutes ago, steve200TDi said:

Ok, yes you could replace it.

So yes you've done a compression test, but I was also referring to a pressure tested the cylinder head i.e. strip cylinder head block up all holes and fill with water on the fuel and coolant side and see if it holds pressure. Then you can see if it has cracked!

Steve

I normally get them pressure tested by my local engine shop, they charge me £60 to test old head, if it has failed, they test and clean the new head for free. 

I think I'll whip the head off and get it down to them, typical it happens when everywhere is shut for parts etc but I'm in work over Christmas and need a car ☹️ Looks like the Mrs is getting up at 5 and taking me to work 😄

I can't put the head failures down to anything other than the over fueling of the remap....or maybe I just have really bad luck 😅

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1 hour ago, steve200TDi said:

The fuel pressure is different between the two so you would need the correct ECU along with the injector codes. And also the fuel pressure regulator is different too.

Have you pressure tested the cylinder head so you know it's definitely cracked and not just the cylinder head moving because of the plastic dowels and/or the head gasket itself failing?

The compression test - was it down down the glow plug holes (probably not as there's only 4!) or injector holes? Could be a copper washer at fault? 

Steve

supply fuel pressure is the same on both engines, but IIRC the injection pressure is different on the 15p to be higher for a cleaner burn

also the 15p has slightly different engine loom & has a 4 wire IAT/MAP sensor rather than the 3 wire map sensor on the 10p,

ive personally ran a 10p engine in a 15p setup, but not the other way round

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Just now, RedLineMike said:

supply fuel pressure is the same on both engines, but IIRC the injection pressure is different on the 15p to be higher for a cleaner burn

also the 15p has slightly different engine loom & has a 4 wire IAT/MAP sensor rather than the 3 wire map sensor on the 10p,

ive personally ran a 10p engine in a 15p setup, but not the other way round

I was aware of different injection pressures, but was unsure if this was monitored by the ECU or not. 

I did read on landyzone of a guy who says he has fitted a 15p in to his 10p, coded the injectors and off he went, but that's only one person, I can't find anyone else.

Thanks for the input

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