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Davewillb

Immobiliser Question - Discovery TD5

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Hi,

Can any one tell me please if I've possibly got this right:

With a Nanocom a couple of months ago I turned off the immobiliser on my 2001 pre facelift TD5¬†Discovery. I did this becuase it refused to start one day and was immobilised, despite me having unlocked it. I didn't try anything else such as the EKA (which I do know) as just turning the immobiliser off with the Nanocom fixed the problem at that time ūüôā¬†

So, both keys work, all doors lock on the fobs and unlock ok, no problems for several weeks, then after a visit to a local garage when the battery may or may not have been disconnected it was fine that day, but the next morning it started normally but then stalled after after about a minute and wouldn't restart, fuel pump wasn't running but it would crank.

I left it standing in the drive as I had to be somewhere, when I got back 2hrs later  it wouldn't then crank - battery was ok etc. I checked with Nanocom and it was still set at Immobiliser off. No faults found.

Hmmm - so my theory is the ECU talks to the BCU which in turn then talks to the intelligent fuse panel under the steering wheel, Nanocom can talk to the ECU and the BCU when I go to that section, the immobiliser is off but it won't crank - so my theory is that its probably the the intelligent fusebox playing up (plus the drivers footwell is damp).

At this point after a lot of messing about finding the BCU behind the glovebox and removing and refiting the fuse panel (which seemed to be dry) and 24hrs later it suddenly decided to start - by which time I'd about given up! Its been starting ok again since then for a couple of days. 

So, my theory is that its the fuse panel playing up simulating an immobiliser on situation and I've just bought and fitted an identical fuse panel, left it with the ignition on for 5 mins to sync and the old girl fired up first time - I took the back off the original panel hoping to find water damage / corrosion - all I could see was faint signs of water drying on the vertical circuit board with the processor on it. 

Any thoughts please from anyone who has been down this road - what are the chances I've got it first try? changing the BCU seems a bit more of a risk with the problems with milage meeding to be less than my car - if thats correct?

If it does it again I will check to see if the starter solenoid is getting 12v on crank, didn't think of this when it wouldn't start for some reason - obsessing with the BCU! 

Sorry for the long wordy post.

Cheers,

 

Dave

 

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Posted (edited)

Well ....sadly I can partly answer my own question. This morning I went to it, turned the key, it started to crank and then almost immediately stopped cranking and then wouldn't crank again.

Time to investigate if 12V is on the starter solenoid when trying to crank but grandaughter is here for the day.

 

Edited by Davewillb
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Grabbed 10 mins away from granddaughter minding and sure enough I have 12V on the starter solenoid when ignition is turned to crank but no cranking....Doh!!

A swift wack with the hammer to the solenoid and voila! she starts.

I guess there is a lesson to be learned here about jumping to immobiliser conclusions - but when I first had a non start a few weeks back it started as soon as I turned of the immobiliser with the Nanocom! Coincidence??

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Posted (edited)

Today I swapped out the starter for a brand new DENSO unit, yep I really spashed the cash for a quick fix but I'm moving house very soon and I could really do without the Disco failing to start on the big day - plus I'm going to refurb the solenoid in the original starter which should give me a good spare which is always a handy thing to have.

Getting the starter off wasn't as easy as I'd hoped - I managed to round off one of the 13mm headed studs, despite being very carefull, but it was very tight. I had a well fitting socket and I'd even heated the stud first, suspecting it had threadlock on it (which it turned out it had).

In the end I had to weld a nut over the head and that did it - I was lucky it was the botton one of the three which is accessible with the welder! 

starter-stud.jpg.b3cc260695b54c747e8af158df93e932.jpg

Edited by Davewillb
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Dave

Starter solinoid is a common issue on my Discovery 2. Regularly I have crawled under to twiddle with the ignition wire. I have bought a rebulid kit which works until the next time.

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22 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

Dave

Starter solinoid is a common issue on my Discovery 2. Regularly I have crawled under to twiddle with the ignition wire. I have bought a rebulid kit which works until the next time.

Cheers, I'm planning to do my solenoid when I get a little free time. I'm trying to learn a lesson from this and try the simple things first and not jump to conclusions. This is my first TD5 so I'm in the steep bit of the learning curveūüėÄ

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3 hours ago, Davewillb said:

Cheers, I'm planning to do my solenoid when I get a little free time. I'm trying to learn a lesson from this and try the simple things first and not jump to conclusions. This is my first TD5 so I'm in the steep bit of the learning curveūüėÄ

Dave you will be forever learning. 

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Posted (edited)

Just fitted new contacts to the solenoid of the starter I replaced - I contact looked very good still but the other was very worn:-

IMG_20190810_112918.thumb.jpg.610ddc7bdf9889d008bad6763a91c5f0.jpg

IMG_20190810_112826.jpg

Edited by Davewillb
Duplicate pic

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Well done for sorting it out.  Even though it was unrelated, this exactly the sort of thing that makes me wary of vehicles with ECUs - once they start playing up, the diagnostics become complex; I can far easier cope with mechanical and simple electrical systems!

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8 hours ago, Snagger said:

Well done for sorting it out.  Even though it was unrelated, this exactly the sort of thing that makes me wary of vehicles with ECUs - once they start playing up, the diagnostics become complex; I can far easier cope with mechanical and simple electrical systems!

Cheers.

Yep agreed,  I wouldn't have had the same problems with my 300tdi when I had it - Megasquirt is an ECU that I get on well with, trouble is I don't get on so well with the cost of the petrol!

Dave

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13 hours ago, Davewillb said:

Cheers.

I don't get on so well with the cost of the petrol!

Dave

Do any of us running a V8?

The solution is LPG. 

I am a big fan of LPG and have run many RR's on it over the years. On the Disco 2 you have the option to run with sill tanks so you don't loost the boot capacity. 

While I remember the other thing to look for when cranking and not firing is a knackered fuel pump. In this unstance a couple to shape smacks to the fuel tank can sometimes restart it. 

Simon

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11 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

Do any of us running a V8?

The solution is LPG.

While I remember the other thing to look for when cranking and not firing is a knackered fuel pump. In this unstance a couple to shape smacks to the fuel tank can sometimes restart it. 

Simon

Thanks for the fuel pump warning, maybe I should buy a spare now, that should keep the original running until I've lost the spare one!

I sort of agree about LPG and I have had a V8 with it, with the tank capacity I had I was only getting about 150 miles range though so still used quite a lot of petrol - but I know it works well for some.

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On 8/2/2019 at 8:21 PM, Simon_CSK said:

I have bought a rebulid kit which works until the next time.

I put a kit on mine, it lasted about 6 years until I sold it, and showed no sign of trouble then, it should be a pretty permanent repair.

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