=jon= Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 Hi I've found some threads but not a definitive answer - what's the 'best' way to sort out the oil system when fitting a serp v8 into a defender (factory v8, if it makes any difference)... It doesn't like you can use the standard filter, as it may hit the axle. Take off pump cover plates from earlier models don't fit the cross bolted block. It doesn't look like you can get a bolt on remote filter plate for cross bolted blocks so you have to use a spin on sandwich plate / take off. There are oil cooler ports on the block already - do you just loop these, or run the to the cooler and another pipe run to the remote filter, or could you fit a cover plate (ie. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/oil-system/cover-plates) over the filter housing and run a remote filter + cooler straight from these? Confused of Wiltshire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 You can block the cooler ports, fridge has done so with no issues. Think automotive do a take off sandwich plate, works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 I've got a Mocal remote filter kit on my 109 serp conversion. There are two styles of plate with the fittings on the side or top. I went with top as it gave the best clearance: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123883876144 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 (edited) Thanks. Looks like a remote filter head as lo-fi linked as above is the best option. I've already got an oil cooler and a remote filter head, but it's previously been plumbed in without a stat - I might look at adding a stat in as well to help with warm up times It looks like Fridge looped the oil cooler hoses using M20 x 1.5 fittings from his thread Edit - just found this - looks like the ports can be blanked : https://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7310 Edited August 31, 2019 by =jon= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Yep, I've blanked the ports on both mine now - and one has a spin-on remote and the other is about to. You may need to turn down the blanking plugs & use a dowty washer to get a good fit & seal due to the depth (or lack of) of the ports. The ambulance was a factory stock 3.5 V8 and the 4.6 dropped in with the standard filter and hasn't been clonked yet - but of course it doesn't get twisted up off-road like some others and TBH it's too close for comfort, I've got a remote kit to go on it when time allows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 I'm looking at the feasibility of lopping off the filter head entirely, blanking it and using the oil cooler lines up to a remote filter, or tapping back into where its blanked and taking the pressure line off from there as appropriate. Mine has been scuffed a few times by the diff when off-roading even with the remote filter. The bump stops compress more than you might imagine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Hmmm... depending on the front cover I'm not sure if doing that would guarantee the oil actually went through the filter? The 4.0/4.6 front cover I dissected had two sets of valves & springs in the passageways and I'm not 100% sure I understand what would happen in that scenario. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 I found this pic posted elsewhere on here - it looks like if you have the factory cooler there are special fittings which divert some/all of the oil through the cooler - without these I'm not sure how much oil would go to the remote filter if you used those ports: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Which engine have you got - there's 3.9 serps, plus early & late 4.0 / 4.6, and a variety of front covers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: Hmmm... depending on the front cover I'm not sure if doing that would guarantee the oil actually went through the filter? The 4.0/4.6 front cover I dissected had two sets of valves & springs in the passageways and I'm not 100% sure I understand what would happen in that scenario. That's what's stopped me going it thus far... I need a cover on the bench and time to inspect the setup and think it over. I'm running the "intermediate" 3.9 serp with the dizzy hole, for future ref. The dizzy-less ones are different, even the filter sits at a different angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 1, 2019 Share Posted September 1, 2019 Ah all bets off then - I'm sure I've got the sacrificial P38 front cover kicking around still if you wanted to have a look / poke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 Yes please, would be interesting to compare alongside the other type I have. I'll report back, should help =Jon= out too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted September 2, 2019 Author Share Posted September 2, 2019 We are running a later P38 4.6 setup. The current plan is to run a Mocal remote take off place (part number TOP1C) with a remote filter head. I've got some M20 x 1.5 plugs coming which we will block the cooler ports with. Debating about what to do with the oil cooler - on the 3.5 it was inline with the filter, but from what I've read on here the oil doesn't run particularly hot anyway, so may either put a stat on it or just not bother entirely.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 2, 2019 Share Posted September 2, 2019 My install doesn't have the biggest rad, so I found running the oil cooler inline with the filter made a massive difference to what might otherwise be a marginal system. I also found that the oil pressure could drop to almost nothing at idle (I have a reliable VDO gauge) when the oil got hot. The cooler pretty much fixed that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted September 3, 2019 Author Share Posted September 3, 2019 (edited) We are running what appears to be the standard v8 rad, and the plan is to get it flow checked while it's all apart. The cooler we have is pretty small (8" x 4" or so, off the top of my head) so it's not going to make a massive difference anyway, I'll probably look at a beefier one and a stat to help with warm up times then... Edited September 3, 2019 by =jon= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 The standard rad on the disco has the oil cooler in the rad which means a thermostat isn't needed. If you run the lines from the standard take off points, you can run a thermostat, but not if you're mounting the cooler inline with the filter as it'll restrict oil pressure when shut. I wonder if the disco rad can be made to fit? The water cooled oil cooler is quite an elegant solution all round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
=jon= Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 The oil coolers I've seen as part of the rad before have been for an auto box, and not rated for high pressure engine oil. Not saying that's how the disco is, but worth checking before splashing out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 Definitely the disco setup, and not uncommon on other cars to have a cooler for the auto box the other side of the rad too. I pulled the cooler out of the disco rad I had just out of curiosity as it was scrap anyway. Its a beautiful piece of copper work and quite heavy duty! I expect the disco 1 workshop or parts manual will confirm if you find the oil pipe diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 I think std V8 Defender rads don't have the oil cooler, ours doesn't - and it cools the 4.6 fine. Got Freelander twin fans on it which fit lovely. On the recent Italy trip (alps + heatwave) was the first time the fans have come on (low speed) whilst moving along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 A standard 3.5 Defender rad is a petty thin unit, with no oil integral oil cooling provision. However the Turbo D rad does have an oil cooler circuit built into the end. My serp 3.9 (ex 1995 Discovery) came with oil cooler pipes that line up with the aforementioned rad without any alterations. Other serp variants may not be like this! The only thing to be aware of is the couplings that screw into the rad come in 2 different thread types. The earlier type are as found on a vee belted V8, and have a steel flared pipe end to seal against. The later type are a parallel fit, with o-ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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