Jocklandjohn Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 I've tried the search but didn't get any hits. My 110's Salisbury rear axle output oil seal is leaking. Its a 1989 with a FA37**** VIN The ancient LR Part Manual I have access to shows Part No AEU2515 - I believe there is a leather version (old) and *maybe* a rubber version (modern) - is this correct? If so I can replace with the later seal and it will fit? Any bear traps I need to be aware of eg variations in output flange diameters or the like that might trip me up? Thanks for any advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 Here you go.............. I did the leather seal twice in a couple of years but couldnt get a good seal. The one in the thread above has been on there four and a half years now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 Thank you Reb. It was a bit confusing (!) but I think the options are: 1) Use leather original seal and (having marked flange & nut) redo until the marks match again super tight thus not bothering the crush tube and all that. 2) Replace with new flange kit which replaces exisiting flange/seal/nut and just crank up super tight. Is there actually a newer rubber seal that replaces the leather version, using the existing flange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 Can't remember if its leather or rubber seal but its this one https://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/81389/379/rear_differential_final_drive_pinion_seal___series_111___defender_1987_2006_up_to__v__wa159806 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 I dont think so. Its leather seal old flange or new flange and new style seal. The new flange was a simple enough job. Snagger posted up the torque somewhere if it isnt in my thread above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 maybe better to get the flange kit, it all matches together then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 16, 2019 Author Share Posted September 16, 2019 Ok thank you both for the guidance - looks like flange and seal renewal! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 16, 2019 Share Posted September 16, 2019 I believe Snagger used 160lb/ft. The crush tube deforms at ~250lb/ft, so it's tight enough without risking crushing the tube any more. I've done similar myself when swapping the flange out for the newer type of seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 17, 2019 Author Share Posted September 17, 2019 20 hours ago, lo-fi said: I believe Snagger used 160lb/ft. The crush tube deforms at ~250lb/ft, so it's tight enough without risking crushing the tube any more. I've done similar myself when swapping the flange out for the newer type of seal. When you swapped, was it both flange and the seal, or did the seal retro-fit ok on existing flange? And I might manage 160ft/lb lying on the road with my back against a tyre! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lo-fi Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 9 hours ago, Jocklandjohn said: When you swapped, was it both flange and the seal, or did the seal retro-fit ok on existing flange? And I might manage 160ft/lb lying on the road with my back against a tyre! Yep, you have to swap both; the flanges are a different design. Definitely worth making up a piece of bar with a couple of bolts to pick up on the prop bolt holes, and make it long enough to wedge against the floor! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted September 18, 2019 Share Posted September 18, 2019 On 9/17/2019 at 3:51 AM, lo-fi said: I believe Snagger used 160lb/ft. The crush tube deforms at ~250lb/ft, so it's tight enough without risking crushing the tube any more. I've done similar myself when swapping the flange out for the newer type of seal. It was about that, and certainly the principle of “tight enough to take out all slack and elasticity, but not tight enough to further crush the tube” is right. Worked fine with no adverse effects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted September 19, 2019 Author Share Posted September 19, 2019 22 hours ago, lo-fi said: Yep, you have to swap both; the flanges are a different design. Definitely worth making up a piece of bar with a couple of bolts to pick up on the prop bolt holes, and make it long enough to wedge against the floor! Aye that little nugget of wisdom sunk in from reading another thread! 13 hours ago, Snagger said: It was about that, and certainly the principle of “tight enough to take out all slack and elasticity, but not tight enough to further crush the tube” is right. Worked fine with no adverse effects. Thats reassuring. I'm always wary of over tightening (or not tight enough) something critical. Thanks everyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirton Posted December 8, 2019 Share Posted December 8, 2019 When replacing seal and flange its VERY important to undo axle breather from casing and clear all muck from both angle piece and pipe ever so easy to do and fixed my leak before i changed seal any way as it was 20years old. Mine was totally blocked with rusty oily muck.see brittanica restoration on u tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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