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Need powersteering.


Gareth Dickens

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John is that a LHD box?

Jon

A left hand drive box would be a mirror image of the one pictured. A LHD LandRover box could conceivably be fitted to the outside of the chassis rail on a right hand drive series LandRover in the same manner that my Toyota boxes are fitted, but Rover boxes are so bulky that tyre clearance issues on full left lock and full articulation may be a problem.

I haven't been able to take any photos yet as I discovered that I have left the lead that transfers photos from my camera to my computer in Vietnam. I may be able to pick up another lead on Sat morning.

Bill.

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I would expect arc is OK as long as it's *good* arc welding, this is not something that should be done as your first try at welding - you need to know it won't fall off. This was MIG'ed on by my own fair hand under supervision of the welding stig.

If you are unsure, ask The Stig in the tools & fab section ;)

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A LHD LandRover box could conceivably be fitted to the outside of the chassis rail on a right hand drive series LandRover in the same manner that my Toyota boxes are fitted, but Rover boxes are so bulky that tyre clearance issues on full left lock and full articulation may be a problem.

Done it!

gallery_1618_185_21124.jpg

30mm wheel spacers required.

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Done it!

gallery_1618_185_21124.jpg

30mm wheel spacers required.

Are the polish marks from before wheel spacers or after ? Do your rims have standard offset ?

I know a few people here who would like power steering, but for some misguided reason want only Rover components.The problem for me in Australia would be to source good used left hand drive steering boxes. Cost of freight from Europe would be a killer too. Future repairs to a left hand drive box may present difficulties over here too as I believe the internals are opposite hand as well.

Bill.

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Are the polish marks from before wheel spacers or after ? Do your rims have standard offset ?

Polish marks from use without spacers.wheels are not standard landrover,but have a little more offset - not sure how much,my tyres now stick-out past the wings buy about 30mm.

It would be a better job to use a slimmer - non-landrover - box,but I came across this one very cheap,so used it.

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Thanks. You would say that moving the fwd Xmember wouldn't cause any problems? I'll have to do that. Has anyone ever measured the degrees that the output arm of the relay box rotates from stop to stop? It looks to me like approx. 60deg. My p/s box rotates about 80 deg. Would you suggest me shortening the p/s box output arm so the range of movement is about the same as it was? Can I weld the existing relay box output arm to the p/s box output arm to make a hybrid that uses the p/s box splines and relay box arm? Will this be able to take a beating without braking? Have any of you done this before? Do you perhaps have pics? Using the merc box I will have to make the arm point aft instead of fwd. Do you see any problem with this?

Thank you

Gareth Dickens

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Just put a narrower x-member back in, I used some 100x50 box (I forget the wall thicknes, either 4, 5 or 6mm) with a tube let in to drive the H14W through, here's a rough buildup:

Side plates cut from ~3mm plate and puddle welded to chassis:

side_plates.jpg

Flitch tubes through chassis and cover the top of the box over:

mount_done.jpg

Disco 2 PAS box mounted:

box_mounted.jpg

Make new x-member to replace the old one:

x-member.jpg

Fit Defender steering column, with defender UJ's and a Disco 2 UJ on the end as the D2 box has different splines:

whole_setup.jpg

Depending on where exactly you mount the box, and if you use D2 or "normal" you may have to bend the drop arm down to clear the chassis, or grind the leg of the front spring mount down a bit. Before you chop the x-member out, weld a holding piece across the front of the chassis (I used some old 1" box) to stop the chassis rails from moving. I have to say, having done this on the 109 I don't know why people make such a fuss about it, as long as your welding is OK (or whoever does it for you is OK) then you're fine. For the price of the Chris Perfect kit you can buy a brand new PAS box, a decent welder, mask, gas, wire, a grinder and enough metal! :blink:

Looking at the piccies it reminds me how much has gone into this vehicle so far, nearly there now, fingers crossed! :i-m_so_happy:

Ha john

you could come over an do some coverting to mine

(if you like) :lol::lol::blink:

he he he ;)

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My front X-member hasn't actually moved - it's just gotten slimmer!

If you're going to weld drop arms together it's not a job for a hobby mig. If your only problem is a mismatch of track rod ends between box & swivel then cutting & joining or re-tapping the drag link for the merc TRE would be a nicer option.

Dirtydiesel has done drop arms and track rods but he doesn't frequent the Series forum (Series don't weigh enough to interest him) I'll see if I can encourage a post out of him.

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Thanks. You would say that moving the fwd Xmember wouldn't cause any problems? I'll have to do that. Has anyone ever measured the degrees that the output arm of the relay box rotates from stop to stop? It looks to me like approx. 60deg. My p/s box rotates about 80 deg. Would you suggest me shortening the p/s box output arm so the range of movement is about the same as it was? Can I weld the existing relay box output arm to the p/s box output arm to make a hybrid that uses the p/s box splines and relay box arm? Will this be able to take a beating without braking? Have any of you done this before? Do you perhaps have pics? Using the merc box I will have to make the arm point aft instead of fwd. Do you see any problem with this?

Thank you

Gareth Dickens

I don't know about other countries but over here you can legally weld steering arms providing they have been annealed, welded, x rayed and re heat treated. surprisingly we are not permitted to cut and join 2 different tie rods or drag links together. One must cut a new thread in a one piece draglink to match tie rod ends to non standard steering boxes.

Bill.

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The MOT is quite vague over here, it states something like "welded repairs to steering components must be of satisfactory standard" or similar. Most people think it says "thou shalt not weld steering bits" but it doesn't actually rule it out, it's just down to the inspector's interpretation.

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OK, not welding 2 drop arms to make 1. Going to have a conical hole cut through the merc drop arm that matches the current tie rod end of the landy.

Big question!

Can I put the replacement Xmember between the front leaf spring hangers? (From L/H front to R/H front Hanger)

I need good dimensions for a replacement Xmember. (length x breadth x height x wall thickness)

Assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Gareth

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Can't see why not, it may restrict your options for winches in the future though. Mine being as it is allows me to stick an H14W in (effing big winch) and still have the same approach angle as a normal Series 3. The x-member was 100x50 box and either 4, 5 or 6mm wall I can't remember. As for width, try a tape measure as every land rover is different :rolleyes:

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Can't see why not, it may restrict your options for winches in the future though. Mine being as it is allows me to stick an H14W in (effing big winch) and still have the same approach angle as a normal Series 3. The x-member was 100x50 box and either 4, 5 or 6mm wall I can't remember. As for width, try a tape measure as every land rover is different :rolleyes:

The other future modification for those that may be contemplating it, is that it would be more difficult to fit a TDI radiator and intercooler. A steering box outside the chassis rails frees up all the space that the relay unit or inboard steering box takes up. I fitted a 200TDI engine to a customers series 3 when he wanted to retain the standard steering. It was a PITA to get everything in and retain the standard bonnet and grille panel. A few weeks later he decided to have me do the Toyota steering box conversion. Had he asked to do the engine and steering conversion all at once it would have saved a lot of headaches and time.

Bill.

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The other future modification for those that may be contemplating it, is that it would be more difficult to fit a TDI radiator and intercooler. A steering box outside the chassis rails frees up all the space that the relay unit or inboard steering box takes up. I fitted a 200TDI engine to a customers series 3 when he wanted to retain the standard steering. It was a PITA to get everything in and retain the standard bonnet and grille panel. A few weeks later he decided to have me do the Toyota steering box conversion. Had he asked to do the engine and steering conversion all at once it would have saved a lot of headaches and time.

Bill.

Isn't it always the way...

I don't know anyone who has twisted/broken a genuine relay, but quite a few who have with aftermarket ones - what about you Bill? (they are still pathetically small shafts like you say).

Btw - great tech as always Bill. Now borrow a camera (and cable) from someone and make with the pics.

Btw btw - it wasn't our fault Joh "don't you worry about that, let me worry about that" Bjelkepetersen (sp?) kept getting re-elected, the bugger changed the voting rules - So we can either blame him or the Cowcockies who voted him in every time...

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Isn't it always the way...

I don't know anyone who has twisted/broken a genuine relay, but quite a few who have with aftermarket ones - what about you Bill? (they are still pathetically small shafts like you say).

Btw - great tech as always Bill. Now borrow a camera (and cable) from someone and make with the pics.

Btw btw - it wasn't our fault Joh "don't you worry about that, let me worry about that" Bjelkepetersen (sp?) kept getting re-elected, the bugger changed the voting rules - So we can either blame him or the Cowcockies who voted him in every time...

Never broken one completely Ben. But twisted a relay shaft about 15 degrees. They're a bit undernourished for the weight and tyre sizes that are common these days. The old forward controls broke a few I understand.

Got a new electric string for the camera. Have downloaded some photos onto my computer. Have to resize them before posting and then read the instructions on how to actually post.

Yes Ben , I know how the Gerrymander operated to keep old Joe in power. I think if the Queensland premiership carried as much power as the US presidency Joe would have done even more damage than that other moron Bush.

Bill.

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  • 5 years later...

This thread is getting a bit old, but I have been away for a couple of months and haven't been able to reply up til now.

Yes my vehicle is fitted with a Toyota LandCruiser FJ/HJ 60 power steering box that fits to the outside of the chassis rail and does away with the need to butcher the chassis in any way. Aside from my own truck I have performed similar conversions on 3 other rigs. Vehicles with standard width series 2 or 3 axles require wheel rims with greater positive offset such as forward control or 1 ton rims to provide clearance between the tyre and steering box on full articulation at full lock. The way I mount the box to the chassis is to cut a piece of 1/2'' thick steel plate to the same profile as the chassis dumb iron but 2'' deeper. I drill four 1/2'' diameter holes at each corner of the mounting plate and clamp the plate to the dumb iron with a 1/2''unf x 4''long bolt and nut through each hole above and below the top and bottom of the box section and through 2 pieces of 2''x1''structural steel channel on the inside of the dumb iron. The bolts pass through 3'' long anticrush tubes between the steering box mounting plate and the channel pieces. This method does away with the need to drill holes and weld crush tubes in the dumb iron itself, and spreads the steering loads over a much larger area of the chassis rail . To attach the steering box to the mounting plate I drill the 4 steering box mounting flange holes into the plate and then plunge a countersinking drill into the backside (chassis side) of the holes and fasten the box to the plate with 4 1/2'' UNC countersunk Unbrako bolts and nuts. The steering column and shaft is a hybrid of series column and wheel, cut away series steering box, to retain the column/firewall support, and a combination of RangeRover and LandCruiser steering shaft universal joints.

As it happens, one of the vehicles ,a series3 swb I converted has been left with me for a couple of weeks to have some other work done. This truck also has a coil spring front suspension conversion with RangeRover axles using the same '' clamp on'' mounting system that has just gone through engineering approval. The engineer stated that in light of Rovers usage of thin steel for chassis construction, and after studying this mounting system he will never entertain the more common weld on conversions again.

If I get an opportunity I will take some photos of the power steering and coil conversion and post it here if anyone is interested.

Bill.

Hi Bill,

I'm doing the conversion with the hj60 box as you described. What did you use for the relay rod to connect to the pitman arm ?

Any photos ?

Thanks,

Glen ( Sydney )

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