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petrolhead63

TD5 Disco 2 stranded..immobiliser/alarm

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Went to the Truck today, it was last used Thursday no problem.

For the 12 years of ownership it has always had this thing with the alarm, if left for overnight or more it would not plip on the key, unlock and lock on the key THEN plip it to turn alarm/immobiliser off. It would then be fine on plipper for locks, alarm etc until left for a longish period again.

Today the key would not operate the central locking, the alarm goes off all the time, it is immobilsed and wont start.

I can unlock all doors by hand inside and lock them centrally from drivers door but they do not unlock again centrally.

I have tried the spare key..same issue.

I have taken the batteyr off and reconnected....same issue.

It is currently stranded behind my garage doors 😖.

Any ideas as to what it could be, any way to disconnect the whole thing manually?

It has recently sprung a big leak on the front sunroof.....if that points to anything where water may have stuffed something.

I have a hawkeye...not the latest software on it though, horrible feeling it may not do alarm/immobilser?

Thanks for any help in at least getting it running. 

Edited by petrolhead63

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Sounds like more specialised knowledge than I have, but one thing to try which works in some cases is to touch the disconnected + and - battery leads together, it resets quite a bit on a P38 and I think a Td5 as well. Good luck with it anyhow..

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Check the 2 big wires on the fuse box near the header tank. Mine did the same thing in the car park had to go to the main Steelers and they couldn’t find it. I only found mine when the headlight started going on and off after every bump.

good luck Kev.

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touched the pos and neg together, just the dame Blanco.

Disco Kev, I will look but on the basis the alarm wakes the neighbours up the battery/cables to fuse box would seem fine.

Thanks, but I errr on water somewhere given the roof leak that started recently.

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It sems that the driver's door actuator has a problem with the microswitch which should send the unlock command to the BCU, this is a big problem cos you'll not be able to remobilise it with the EKA code, hawkeye or any other tester is useless while it's immobilised as the BCU doesnt comunicate then,  the sunroof leak might have affected the interior fusebox so check that first, also you can try to replace the roof receiver maybe you are lucky to be that... if you can use the fob at least once then connect hawkeye and go in BCU settings to set the alarm to "not fitted" untill you fix it

 

btw, after you lock with the key can't you unlock with the fob? cos that symptom which you described first is the "BCU sleep mode" and any action with the key should wake it up with the condition to not open the door untill the fob worked

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Sierrafery, thanks. I am not quite understanding all you say. However lets try and place the issue.

The micro switch in the drivers door I did think on, I think it may be ok. If I put the battery back on, the alarm sounds immediately but I can stop it by using the key in the drivers lock.

However, having done that the plipper does not work. Open a door and off goes the alarm again.did try starting the car in case it was not immobilised but it is.

The water leak, pretty big very suddenly, 2 buckets! one on console one on passenger footwell....which is very very wet.

The water is finding its way to passenger side and gearstick area. Drivers side seems dry other than lots of condensation on screen due to damp in the car.

After unlocking with the key neither fob works...I went to get the unused spare in case it was a duff key fob. I

t is this symptom it has had for 12 years, goes to sleep overnight until woken up by key unlock and a plip before opening the door.

Edited by petrolhead63

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30 minutes ago, petrolhead63 said:

The water is finding its way to passenger side and gearstick area.

Then most probably the BCU was ruined cos it's there behind the glovebox... fix the leak then replace the BCU

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ok thanks, I will look at BCU. 

If changed does it need coding or anything or is it plug and play?

Edited by petrolhead63

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You have to remove the glove box to reach the BCU, if it's replaced it needs complex programming with dedicated tester, all the connectors shown are connected to it

C0661 rhd.jpg

Edited by sierrafery

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Thanks again, I think you may be correct. BCU....it seems to fit.

I could try the dry it out on the boiler trick....hehe. I t worked on an Audi ECU that filled up with water!!

Is there any way to get the car started with a duff BCU...unplug/then reconnect battery or similar? not worried if windows etc dont work but I can move it away from where it is then and set fire to it away from my garage/workshop LOL

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If the BCU has some internal issue caused by water which is beyond surface leakage and the immobiliser is in ''solid'' state you can't start the vehicle whatsoever cos the security code which is shared with the engine ECU is affected, no way to bypass that at least i can't imagine one

anyway dont do anything with the BCU without disconnecting the battery first

Edited by sierrafery

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Thanks again. I do not want to go running into this making assumptions often wrong! As I understand it, the issue seems to be my remote keys are suddenly not disarming the alarm and immobiliser.

It seems this could be one of three things and maybe an odd one of two wires in the main under bonnet fuse box which I doubt. 

1) It could be a coincidence and nothing to do with the leak....the RF receiver died in the roof near rear sunroof? If this is replaced I think it is plug and play other than later reprogramming to desired options? am I correct....it may be a change to illiminate it as an issue.

2) Under dash fuse box got wet although water is not in footwell on drivers side. This can be removed, opened up and checked. If it is obviously wet/corroded I can simply plug a replacement in?

3) Highly likely given where water has got in is the BCU, behind glove box. This can be replaced or perhaps repaired..if repaired it would be plug and play again. This too I should remove to inspect to see if its wet. Does it open up to inspect the pcb inside? I did an Audi comfort control ECU, opened up, dried it all out, and sorted which was lucky. Same problem, leaky drains into footwell and the designer sited this ECU in a pressed well of footwell!!!

Finally, is there a good guide to removing the headliner? I think its fairly obvious but it may help know how various trims are fixed to prevent any damage pulling in the wrong place..

Edited by petrolhead63

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Hi, 

1. yes, you can rule out the RF receiver as it's plug and play though it would have had effect only for the fobs functionality not the central (un)locking from driver's door which you described

2. interior fusebox is pug and play with the condition to disconnect the battery before the swap and after the reconnection turn ignition on II and let it so 5 minutes also the fusebox must be same type aka from pre- facelift or facelift 

3. If the BCU is repaired by proffesionals then it should be plug andf play  https://callrova.com/land-rover-discovery-2/ or https://www.turnerdiagnostics.com/land-rover/discovery-2/discovery-bcu-exchange.html

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Thanks sierrafery, your time and expertise is very much appreciated.

I understand..yes the RF unit should not be the culprit then. I will double check once more but am sure yesterday the key will not unlock the locks centrally, just the drivers one. But if I manually unlock them all it will then lock them all which I assume points to the micro switch in the drivers lock being ok too.

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21 minutes ago, petrolhead63 said:

But if I manually unlock them all it will then lock them all which I assume points to the micro switch in the drivers lock being ok too

You said in the first post that you can't unlock with the key it was not about locking... that microswitch has two positions one for lock and one for unlock so if it locks doesnt mean that the unlock side works too, the switch closes to earth for each command on a separate wire, lock on one and unlock on the other i edited the relevant part from the diagram... though try to unlock twice cos if it's set to single point entry then it will unlock all doors only on the second command and if it does youy might be lucky to be the receiver

 

CDL door switch.jpg

Edited by sierrafery

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OK, sorry for being a bit dim! better with 40 year old cars plus!

Just checked, the key is working both way...it seems to be in the setting that takes 1, 2 and 3 turns so do drivers, passengers then boot. It locks it unlocks.

If I unlock and open a door alarms goes off, if I shut door and use key it stops alarm.

If i lock car on key with bonnet open it pips on horns telling me it has an open door/bonnet.

So it does seem it all works except the remote from the keys. Switch in door seems good both ways but could be any of the other three things!

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If the key works both ways then you can remobilise it with EKA code then connect hawkeye and disable the alarm/immobiliser, a main dealer must give the code to you FOC based on ownership evidence... though change the RF receiver maybe you are lucky then disable the alarm with tester

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ah, this is getting promising. My Hawkeye is quite old and not the latest updates.

I may even have EKA code but if not will get it.

Re batteries in fobs, I did wonder but it would be odd for both to die at the same time and no warning of them going bad with short range etc. The red light comes on with both keys.

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Even first generation hawkeye can disable the alarm, in the BCU - programming - you have to set the alarm to "not fitted" and passive immobiliser disabled...but you can't comunicate with the BCU while it's immobilised

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2 hours ago, V8 Freak said:

Silly question time.... @petrolhead63 but are the batteries in the keys in good order??

new batteries fitted in both to check I have not been silly....no go. thanks anyway, surprising how often the obvious can be overlooked.

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Going to try and get a little time off work today and look at the BCU for wet....does the glove box have any tricks to removal or will it be self evident when I get to it. I may pull the fuse box too the other side, though it is only the key remote not working so it does seem more like a fault than water ingress to a fuse box or ECU which is likely to interfere with more than one function.

It may still be the roof RF receiver I guess totally coincidental to the water leak starting in the front, I will try and find a used one and change it over.

Are all the receivers the same in Disco 2? I have looked and see they have different numbers on them. I do not want to buy the wrong one but was intending to get one before pulling the headliner/trims out.

Edited by petrolhead63

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OK, so things are improving!

I got the EKA from LR and have got it started and moved...woohoo!

I then was getting Hawkeye to turn off the immobiliser but a neighbour turned up for a chat and it activated itself again so wont start haha. I will need to go through the EKA palava yet again and be quicker to turn off the immobilser.

What about the alarm? can that be turned off or does it only turn on with the plip?

It seems like maybe it is the rf receiver, it would not plip on the key when I tested it quickly after turning off the engine.

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read again my post nr 18. the alarm and immobiliser are interdependant if you see what i mean ... so set alarm to " not fitted" or "no alarm" or what ever that setting is named cos i forgot then you are sorted ... just go through all the settings untill the menu end and confirm that you change factory setings before you exit . good luck

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