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Cheap'ish 609 axle builds


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16 hours ago, landroversforever said:

I was meaning more along the lines of if it gives you fine enough adjustment? 

Argh… we’ll I don’t really have much option as it’s needed to clear the centre section. Lots of 1 ton axle conversations here are done the same way.

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19 hours ago, miketomcat said:

If the thread pitch on the rod end is around 1mm or less I doubt you'll need it much finer than that. Let's face it, it's not a race car the handling will be some what loose. As long as it's toe out, 1 or 2mm will only show as slightly more inside tyre wear.

Mike

Also have to bear in mind from my house to the nearest forest road is only 10km…. after that it’s dirt until the road runs out. The truck won’t be highway driven, got a trailer for that 😉

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  • 2 weeks later...
4 hours ago, B reg 90 said:

Interested in your rear 4 link set up. How have you done the top links as the chassis end to get enough link angle?

Looks a top job by the way.

Adrian

Hi, I used the existing ‘A’ frame mounting locations and just made new mounts that suited the Jonny Joints. The slight change in arm angle over the old ‘A’ frame due to the axle ends being separated hasn’t been an issue so far and I’ve seen this done on other D90’s here & in the US over the years. The lowers also got new mounts that locate into the stock trailing arm hole.

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On 12/9/2022 at 6:22 PM, landy_andy said:

Got the rear 1350 thick walled drive shaft back from the fab shop today, a couple of coats of chassis black & on it’ll go.

We’ll, that didn’t go to plan… the slip yoke end was binding on the bearing cap U bolts, so have ordered a Tom Woods 1350 high angle offset UJ. The offset should fix the binding & offer more droop angle as stock 1350’s bind up at about 20 degrees…. The yoke can also get a bit of tickling with the die grinder too 😉

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

New TW 1350 offset joints arrived, decided to clearance the slip yoke to be on the safe side. Unfortunately, due to the 1350’s having a lower maximum angle than the 1310’s and the short rear drive shaft it still binds at maximum droop. So, going to switch the limit straps out from 28” long to 26” ones as that bring things into an acceptable range. Just one of the compromises when trying to build a bullet proof driveline & keep a decent level of flex in the suspension.

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And what’s left to do….

- Fit new 26” limit straps when they arrive.

- Fit mini air compressor for the front locker & pipe up.

- Refit the passenger side floor plate (out to fit airline for locker).

- Last full nut & bolt check.

Wait for the snow to go or go buy some chains & go snow wheelin !

 

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Swapped out the rear 26” limit straps & we have just enough clearance to allow for a bit of stretch in them.

And what’s left to do….

- Refit the passenger side floor plate, just need a 6mm push fit ‘T’ for the breathers.

- Last full nut & bolt check.

- Work on the rear anti-rock install.

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And… I decided to add a skid plate under the transfer case & exhaust muffler. Will go from the front x-member to just behind the rear trailing arm mounts. Think it’ll be 1/4” aluminum with a 3/8” UHMW skin to make it slippery. Same as most of the ultra 4 and other race cars run, could also use AR400 plate but she’s already a heavy beast !

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  • 2 months later...

Well, the snow has finally quit… sun is out and things are starting to melt at last. Took the opportunity last weekend to get the custom trailer out and see how the truck fits. Crawled up & over the fenders real nice in low, low. Now to get the lights finished & wait for the local forest road to clear out… hopefully be out by late June.

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16 hours ago, landroversforever said:

That looks awesome Andy :D 

 

Thanks, been a very long time coming. Only problem now is I injured my hand climbing over a snow bank taking the pup a walk. Gotta keep a finger splint on for 6 weeks, so no shop time. Argh ! 😭

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