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If anyone is interested in building some cheap'ish 609 axles I'll post up some info.... there based on Ford, Dodge & Chevy parts, so, am not sure how available these are in the UK.

The axle casings are digital design downloads so you could just use those & graft on some other manufacturers ends ?

Linky to axle designs - Diyoffroad.com

Anyway... here's a few pic's of the parts being assembled for the rear as that'll get finished first and the front knuckles that I'm still working the details out on.

Cheers, Andy

Center section - 2.jpg

Center section -1.jpg

Front Knuckle Assy.jpg

Hub - 1.jpg

Hubs & rotors.jpg

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Going on my 100”, there have been some Rover 609 builds on Pirate but they used kingpin D60 and Spidertrax parts... these are about as cheap as you can get whilst using parts that are readily available in the pick-a-part yards, thus cheap’ish build. The axle casings are looking like they’ll be about half the price of Trail Gear or Ruffstuff ones.... shipping really makes them expensive.

Axle shafts will be 35 spline all round, with ARB’s front & rear, could just use stock 30/31 spline stuff but the 35 is not much more in CrMo so it’s really a no brainer to upgrade and get the benefit of 1.5” diameter shafts.

Have a build thread on D’Source, been at it 10yrs+ in between building a house, work, boat build... finally getting it done ready for retirement 😉

D90 rebuild thread

Will keep posting here if ya want...


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Scored some used 99-04 Super Duty C’s off a guy on Pirate, just waiting for them to get here. Did some quick measuring up and I may need to add an inch or so to each side of the axle tubes as the new hub/knuckle/C assembly is about 2” wider from wheel mounting face to end of axle tube. However, once I get the C’s it looks like I may be able to attach one side of the lower spring mount to the back of the C like the later Super Duty’s and gain an inch. So, work on the rear axle has been put on hold till I sort this out as I want the front & rear WMS/WMS to match.



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7 hours ago, RedLineMike said:

already bought them now, looked at a few options including a custom nissan housing with spidertrax/superduty knuckles etc

I guess if you already have some built 3rd’s that’s a good way to go... this work ?


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these are the ones i had looked at originally to build up a hybrid axle


however i managed to find a pair of complete axles forsale that im waiting on being able to collect thanks to Coronavirus stalling that,

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Did a bit of measuring up today, stacked some washers & a spare wheel spacer out 1.5”. With the wheel mounted up it doesn’t look too bad, would result in a WMS/WMS of 64”. Will see how the numbers stack up when I get the inner C’s this week, hopefully we can keep the additional axle tube length to an inch or less.



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On 4/12/2020 at 6:46 AM, landy_andy said:

Or just go for tons... check out the D2 build on Dirtlifestyle

Realy nice work, interesting though as I have seen another video years ago where they just drilled out the plug welds holding the pigs head to the tubes, heated the pigs head and pulled the tubes out. This meant that all the welding and reinforcement of the cut tube was not needed as you can shorten or lengthen the tube and re plug weld so no distortion risk?

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9 hours ago, missingsid said:

Realy nice work, interesting though as I have seen another video years ago where they just drilled out the plug welds holding the pigs head to the tubes, heated the pigs head and pulled the tubes out. This meant that all the welding and reinforcement of the cut tube was not needed as you can shorten or lengthen the tube and re plug weld so no distortion risk?

Hi, have been following Nate’s channel for a while... problem with using tons is there a much wider WMS/WMS (74”) than the D100 (61”), are 8 lug unit bearings and have deeper 3rd so on 35’s it really limits under axle clearance.... and they weigh a ton too !

As I want to keep using my existing Stazworks double beadlock rims, I would have to redrill the unit bearings again if they need to be replaced and that’s a pain, could reduce width of front axle when doing the side to side swap but then you’d need new inner axle shafts. Rear axle would need reducing in width too, again new axle shafts required and they’d probably need a regear. I’d also have to do a brake conversion as well to fit inside my 15” rims.

When you look at the costs involved in doing the width reduction, gears and brakes  it makes the savings you can get on the axles significantly less, add into that the loss in ground clearance and the additional weight, the 609’s make more sense.

Now, to pull the axle tubes from the housing is easily possible using a jig that’s been posted a few times on utube but again, that’s as much work if not more than just fabricating a new housing.

For me, it works out a better option to go the 609 route... it also keeps the truck more streetable as we have to cover our tires here with fenders or you could possibly get a ticket & have to take it for a vehicle inspection. A bit of tire poke isn’t normally an issue but we can’t get away with running no or very minimal fenders here like they can in a lot of the US states.

In some states you can even run full tube buggies on the roads as long as you have lights & insurance.

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First of the 99-04 SD inner C’s landed in the mail box today, now to remove the old axle tube stub and get it pressed onto a piece of 3.5” DOM. I can then start to work out where the spring perch will fall and begin designing the combined link mount/perch brackets.

The assembly jig water jet cut parts are at the fab shop being bent up, need to pick up a length of 5” x 5” tube next to clamp them round.




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11 hours ago, RedLineMike said:

Oh baby

@landy_andy are you sticking with the balljoints or are you going to BJ eliminators?
What diff ratio are you going for?

Am using new BJ’s for now, realistically if they last 50,000km that’s prob 5yrs+ of use based on we only get 6 months of summer here if we’re lucky.

Was going to stick with 3.50:1 but assembled these tonight..... and measuring the WMS to the top BJ nut flat casting edge is 10”. On the truck the spacer & washer combo are 1.75” thick to give me the 10” of clearance from the WMS to the spring to miss the BJ nut.

So, that means I’ll need to build the axles out to a WMS/WMS of 64.5” to fit the front correctly.

My plan was to build the rear axle, fit it and work on the front next winter.... but.... plans change and I’ll just build both now at the same time. Will save a few bucks on water jet cutting setup as I can combine parts for both in the same thickness of material.

Probably won’t get them on for this summer as I need to spread the cost of the 3rd’s out unless I can find some S/H lockers but those are rare in 35 spline or the worn out.



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