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Leaking swivel pins!!!


Jason2
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Hi Chaps

Just done a full oil change on a 95 300tdi and found that there was not much oil in the swivel pins!! I now know why as it's leaking out fine style, had a long journey to do so I drained oil out and refilled with one shot grease but it seems to be chucking that out too.

There is slight play in the front wheels which I originally thought was the bearings which needed tightening up or is it worse than that????

Is it normal for a small amount of grease/oil to come out?????

Any advice much appreciated.

Jason

Ps:HAPPY NEW YEAR

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Jack one side of the front axle up and check movement at the wheel. This shows slack in wheel plus swivel bearings

Now get someone to press hard on the brake pedal.

Any movement left is worn or poorly adjusted swivel bearings.

If swivel bearings have not been recently adjusted they need replacing.

No leaks should be expected if swivel bearings and seal are in good condition.

jw

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The other thing that can cause leaks is if the swivel housings are badly pitted and rusty, this will chew up even a brand new seal in a matter of weeks, only cure is to replace the housing (chrome ball).

But if you can feel movement you either need to adjust the swivels, or you may even have a broken one it is not uncommon, in which case it needs urgent attention because if the other one goes the wheel will probably fall off!

Swivel bearings are adjusted by selectable shims, you take some out of the pins to tighten the swivel, no shims left means time for new bearings.

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Cool-Thanks for that matey's!

The swivel balls are not pitied or rusty and personally reckon that they have never been adjusted for a long time.The old girl has 117k and to the best of my knowledge has never done any off roading (yet)!

So what's the game plan?Living in the middle of "no where" once I strip both sides down I want to do this right, so would I be right in saying that new wheel bearings,swivel bearings & seal should do the trick!

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As Steve (aka Bogmonster aka scl) says, you most likely need to adjust your swivel preloads. You can do this separately to adjusting the wheel bearings. Even in the middle of nowhere, with the mileage you have the chances are you can adjust the preloads without changing the bearings. Eg my bearings have done more than double yours and I haven't changed them yet, but I have removed shims twice now. Next time I think it will be the bearings at about 300k kms.

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Jack one side of the front axle up and check movement at the wheel. This shows slack in wheel plus swivel bearings

Now get someone to press hard on the brake pedal.

Any movement left is worn or poorly adjusted swivel bearings.

If swivel bearings have not been recently adjusted they need replacing.

No leaks should be expected if swivel bearings and seal are in good condition.

jw

Did as you said JW -Cheers "TOP TIP"

And the play is in the wheel bearings as no movement is noticed with the foot break on!!

Under further inspection it turns out that the swivel cups are badly pitied in one area only at the front in the middle of the ball on both sides of the vehicle which would explain the knackered seal/grease loss!!!

Does this mean a full swivel ball change with all the bag a mashings or can it be left as it is as long as the oil level is checked regularly??????-Which brings me on to my next question!

How the hell do you check the oil level once you have filled it with one shot grease?????

post-2294-1168180739_thumb.jpg

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How the hell do you check the oil level once you have filled it with one shot grease?????

you don't, cos there's no oil in there to check the level of,

i prefer my 110's swivels filled with lovely oily EP90, but at the last garage visit they got filled with the crummy greasy stuff, must get that cleaned out & fresh oil fitted.

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try & pour more warm (flows easier) grease in? it works for me. i used an entire tube of grease topping up both swivels yesterday. which considering the grease went in two/three years ago seems a reasonable amount to me.

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should be 1 tube of swivel grease for each swivel, warming the tube in hot [but handlable] water will help

Cheers!

Got that bit thanks,what I want to know is it worth stripping the whole bloody thing in bits and renewing for a bit of a leak????????????

I will wait until the weather warms up here ,go on a long run & then try and flush all the grease out and refill with oil.

Don't fancy taking all that lot in bits just for a (another) few oil leaks,I will try and keep an eye on it and if it gets really bad will do it!

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Jason, if that's a picture of your chrome ball, then it needs replacing. Every time the pitted part goes inside the swivel housing it picks up oil and then deposits it outside where it makes a mess. I would suggest you leave the grease in there for now, as being thicker than oil it'll take longer to empty out.

The pitted part will also abrade away the main swivel housing seal - making the leak progressively worse.

Rebuilding a 300TDi disco front hub:-

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601

Les. :)

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Jason, if that's a picture of your chrome ball, then it needs replacing. Every time the pitted part goes inside the swivel housing it picks up oil and then deposits it outside where it makes a mess. I would suggest you leave the grease in there for now, as being thicker than oil it'll take longer to empty out.

The pitted part will also abrade away the main swivel housing seal - making the leak progressively worse.

Rebuilding a 300TDi disco front hub:-

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601

Les. :)

Ahhhh at last! Cheers Les!

Yes that is one of my chrome balls, the otherside is the same.I have already read your great article thanks and dont have a problem changing them,just did'nt want to do it for nothing!!

Paddocks do a ball kit, is there anything else I should change?bearings,seals,joints etc???? or is it a suck it and see?Dont like the idea being stuck without transport!!!

Many thanks in advance.

Jason

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ive heard of people using glassfibre to fill pits in swivel balls with good sucess, doesnt even need dismantaling for that. i believe its standard practice on 101s as you can no longer get the swivels. getting it sanded to the right shape i'd expect is the important part.

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I wouldn't recommned the ball kits - they tend to skrimp on things like gaskets that should be thick, but in reality are thin. I know this sounds like a minor detail, but a carp gasket can lead to a major rebuild. It seems from what you have said that the wheel bearing might be ok, so you are pretty-much looking at what I have already posted in the thread. Parts came to around £120 for one corner, so both corners works out at a lot of money, but you are rebuilding, repairing, and restoring, so maybe not so expensive after all, plus perhaps the satisfaction of knowing you have done the job properly and well - yourself, rather than some garage that may or may not have done it to the standard you would like.

You could always do one corner, then the other a while later.

Les. :)

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I wouldn't recommned the ball kits - they tend to skrimp on things like gaskets that should be thick, but in reality are thin. I know this sounds like a minor detail, but a carp gasket can lead to a major rebuild. It seems from what you have said that the wheel bearing might be ok, so you are pretty-much looking at what I have already posted in the thread. Parts came to around £120 for one corner, so both corners works out at a lot of money, but you are rebuilding, repairing, and restoring, so maybe not so expensive after all, plus perhaps the satisfaction of knowing you have done the job properly and well - yourself, rather than some garage that may or may not have done it to the standard you would like.

You could always do one corner, then the other a while later.

Les. :)

Hello

Does anyone know the pre-load setting for the 300tdi,and is it done with the seal in or out ? I set mine to between 1.25 kg & 1.46 kg with the seal out as per Rave manual. But i have still got slight play in them. By the way wheel bearings have been replaced.

Cheers Steve :unsure:

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You set preload with no driveshaft, no steering, and no seal so that only resistance to movement on the swivel pins bearings is read. If I am totally rebuilding the swivel housing completely, I set the pre-load at 9-11lbs. Once new components are settled in, this reduces itself by a small amount.

Les. :)

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You set preload with no driveshaft, no steering, and no seal so that only resistance to movement on the swivel pins bearings is read. If I am totally rebuilding the swivel housing completely, I set the pre-load at 9-11lbs. Once new components are settled in, this reduces itself by a small amount.

Les. :)

Thanks a lot everybod!

I had actualy wondered about the possibility of filling holes in swivel crome balls with liquid metal but it sounds a bit botchy!!!

Just getting some prices for bits,ordered a 52mm box spanner off t'internet for hub nuts and will let you know in due time how I get on

Jason

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