darthdicky Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Yes, but aren't they in that situation mounted on top of the bumper, rather than on the front face?Les. Yeah, so mounting them like in the pic would be better for normal recoveries... ? Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 The set-up on a Defender bumper is with the bolts going vertically downwards and all the pulling is in shear across the diameter of the bolts, the nuts and washers are just there to stop the bolts coming out. In your set-up you are putting all the loads into 4 threads and whatever grade of bolts you use the weakest link is the thread. Now I know we do this on towballs, the average UK towball uses 2xM16 but cars towing trailers do not have such severe dynamic loads as when 2 Rangerovers are pulling themselves from the mud! Also most of the NATO hitches use plates both sides of the rear crossmember but are still using 4 bolts in tension not shear. So for my twopenny worth I would do as Fridgefreezer suggests and use better gusseted plates but try to do the bolting ala Defender with bolts in shear (horizontal or vertical). The 2 bolts going through the chassis are fine but needs plates both sides to transmit the loads evenly. Your welding also looks suspect possibly due to wrong / lack of shielding gas or did you weld to galvanised / zinc plated plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 the two bolts holding it to the chassis look like the standard Disco/RR mounts to me as used by loads of off the shelf winch bumpers. apart from the welding looking a bit less than great i cant see much wrong with the bumper. spreader plates sound a good idea for the recovery points though - i freely admit i know naff all about design/metal/stress etc so ignore me at lesuire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 Its a good start, so don't give up. why don't you take away some of the ideas the others have come up with, then sketch something out, scan your sketch and post it up for everyone to look at, you are on the right track, and as the others have said your biggest probs are the lack of spreader plates and the fact that the bolts are in tension, rather than shear... if you are not too great at welding, why don't you just tack it up, try it on the vehicle to make sure it fits, then get someone else to run around it, you need a pretty big welding plant to realy do a good job on big stuff like that, i'm sure someone on here would do half an hours welding for you in exchange for a few beers. its nice to see people having a go, and asking for an opinion, rather that insisting they're right. as for me, i'm a carp welder, am pretty poor at fabrication, but know a little bit about engineering... 8.8 bolts will be fine if you are using 4x M12's... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2hotdog Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Its a good start, so don't give up.why don't you take away some of the ideas the others have come up with, then sketch something out, scan your sketch and post it up for everyone to look at, you are on the right track, and as the others have said your biggest probs are the lack of spreader plates and the fact that the bolts are in tension, rather than shear... if you are not too great at welding, why don't you just tack it up, try it on the vehicle to make sure it fits, then get someone else to run around it, you need a pretty big welding plant to realy do a good job on big stuff like that, i'm sure someone on here would do half an hours welding for you in exchange for a few beers. its nice to see people having a go, and asking for an opinion, rather that insisting they're right. as for me, i'm a carp welder, am pretty poor at fabrication, but know a little bit about engineering... 8.8 bolts will be fine if you are using 4x M12's... Like me and agreed. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Aren't they supposedly lifting rings for slinging it under a helicopter? If so it's probably better used as shown above!Richard Nope, Series LR's in Army service were/are always slung with chains inside canvas coverings fitted around the front & rear spring hangers,only seen Series LR's lifted on these D rings when loaded onto a truck or ship by a crane. only 90/110 are slung by their JATE rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2007 Share Posted January 10, 2007 Both wrong I'm afraid - those are pukka Stage 1 V8 recovery rings. The lifting rings are tiny little things held down with two bolts onto the top of the chassis rails, thusly: And yes, I have seen people squeeze a shackle pin through them and then try to use them for recovery! Those lifting ring eyes were only used on lightweights not normal Series LR's in military service, Yes a shackle pin will go through that hole as thats what their for when used as lifting rings again when being loaded/unloaded by a crane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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