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Under body winch fairleads


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A little side project for a mate (and I'll use the same under my FJ40) under body faileads to run the winch rope from a rear mount winch 

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The red bit is a steel support 8mm, the gray is 3 or 5mm stainless flat that has been pressed into shape..... I haven't formed anything qite like this before and not in stainless flat bar, the inside of the ring is 40mm and the curve of the thimble is formed around a 40mm die 

The theory is they are welded up under the truck so the stianless curve is on the inside of the bend the steel loop is there to aid in mounting and retain the rope 

I'm after a bit of feedback from you guys.... Stainless fairleads arn't a common thing here, I'd prefer to use 3mm as I'm pretty certian the 5mm will require heat to let it form this tight

Is 3mm going to to work / last 

As far as forming it, I'm going to try and form it only 180degrees but I suspect there will be bits up the ends that won't form so well..... going to make the male and female dies on the lathe... once I finish a ball cutting tool lol 

 

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14 hours ago, landroversforever said:

3mm should hold up fine I reckon. Unless you’re pulling at a really tight angle (I suspect not under a car) it’s not much load against the material. If the run is almost straight, would some bent loops of say ~1/2” stainless be easier? Heavier though. 

Stainless is very expensive over here... 8 of the 32NB stainless short weld in bends (to do 2 fairleads on the buggy cage) it was over $260...... the idea is a cheap, large radius (no stress on rope), easy to install... with a minimal install size and lastly weight 

I'd be concerned about 1/2"  putting a stress piont on the rope.... I don't know the specs, but i remember reading in a climbing mag that a 10mm dia cariabiner weakens the rope by 6% (something like that, been a while the gray hair could be effecting my memory)

Most of the setups I've built, only bend the rope around 15 degrees, think I may have had one that had a 30 degree max on the way to a rear pulley so pretty straight 


Bowie, I did look at yachting and marine stuff but the larger stuff got very expensive or was thin stainless sheet formed into the eye and plastic/glass/alloy holding it.... makes me concerned about the wear factor due to mud n pumice

 

9 hours ago, Stellaghost said:

Why not bore out some stainless round bar with a back to back funnel arrangement with the centre being just over rope diameter, this would encourage muck to clean off rope regards Stephen

 

I went with the open design for two reasons... if I ever brake a rope and have to get under the truck in the muck to feed it back through trying to feed a wet muddy fraied (sp?) rope throught a mud full'ed eye that is tight lol I think you'd be able to hear me swearing in england!  The other issue is I know this is dodgy and not the done thing but I've had a couple of times now where on epic runs we have ended up running on a knotted line (also why I want the extra curve so a knot wont catch the edge)  

I have considered using 90 degree short weld in bends and feeding the rope throught them, this is why I'm not... I think they will fill with clay, I'm going to have to invest time to trim out the back of them to let the cable run without rubbing and the decider..... for the same cost (time n money) they arn't as bling lol

Its also a reason to finish one of the radius cutters for the lathe and give it a go 

One thing that is going to be interesting is making a female die that will keep the flat plate center'ed as the male folds up the sides..... sort of hedging towards making a set of bead roller dies to form the flat bar into a curve and then the press to form the fit for the ring, The rings are just going to be profile cut 

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Have you got a sketch or some pictures of the routing? a smaller rad shouldn't affect the rope if its only a slight change in direction. My winch fairleads are 3x rope diameter for the radius, but that's based on too tight a radius putting undue strain on the fibres on the outside of a 90Deg bend in the rope.

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11 hours ago, landroversforever said:

Have you got a sketch or some pictures of the routing? a smaller rad shouldn't affect the rope if its only a slight change in direction. My winch fairleads are 3x rope diameter for the radius, but that's based on too tight a radius putting undue strain on the fibres on the outside of a 90Deg bend in the rope.

At this stage no..... I'm still doing alot of CAD work modeling components for the design of the build.... what I can say is the rear PTO winch is going to have to move, adding links is going to move the winch... at this stage I'm thinking I may offset it to one side to balance out the batteries 

As for my mates truck, hes in the other island about 14hrs away,he'll have some fun with his as he has a surf (tank one side and exhust the other)

As for rope strain.... you could be right, my reference is a bit of a special beast climbing rope is designed to stretch to save your life in a fall 

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