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Rear crank seal & T seals on a 300tdi mated to an LT77.


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Hi to all. Ok, searched through the internet found some info but I am still unsure as usual. So I believe I need to change my clutch as it is slipping. My query is can the rear crank seal and T seals be fitted with the engine still in the 110 even if it is a bit more fiddley but very do able. I have done a clutch before by removing the LT77 gear box as that suits me best and want to do it that way again. Is there a tried and trusted sealant I can use and would it be worth fitting a crank seal with the two extra holes in it? I know about the cable tie on the rod and the stronger arm what is the idea with drinks can metal slips to put the T seals in? Is there anything else I should do while I am in there? I have had this 110 for 18 years and still I can not part with it. 🙈🙉🙊

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Yes it is possible. I've only done the T seals with the engine out on a 19J and 200tdi and they both a massive pain to do properly so doing it whilst on your back will be even more of a pain. 

I would strongly recommend from experience with any type of oil seal on the engine, only get genuine LR if you want the job to last. Get a couple of pairs of T seals incase you bugger 1 set up, they are a tight fit. 

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There is a video from Brittanica Restorations on fitting T seals and the main seal. Turners sell the 2.8 TGV seal as they think that is a better seal. I don't think it's impossible to do from underneath, but it's definitely a challenge. I think if I was faced with that and a clutch change I'd have the engine out, but each to their own.

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Hi, when I remove the engine is there any way I can turn it upside down to do the T seals? I have a hoist and might get a leveller £30 ish but don't want to buy a stand at £100 ish for a one off hopefully, already had one distroyed by someone. Sorry on a tight budget as always. 🙄 Mark.

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On 9/25/2021 at 1:20 PM, monkie said:

 

I would strongly recommend from experience with any type of oil seal on the engine, only get genuine LR if you want the job to last. Get a couple of pairs of T seals incase you bugger 1 set up, they are a tight fit. 

In this day and age, probably better to find out what was the genuine part - buying Genuine these days is mostly Britpart/Bearmach

I'd be tempted with Payen and buy form a known source

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4 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:

In this day and age, probably better to find out what was the genuine part - buying Genuine these days is mostly Britpart/Bearmach

I'd be tempted with Payen and buy form a known source

By genuine I mean sourced from an LR dealer and supplied in LR packaging. Yes it will probably cost more but it will mean you won't be revisiting the job anytime soon. 

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1 hour ago, monkie said:

By genuine I mean sourced from an LR dealer and supplied in LR packaging. Yes it will probably cost more but it will mean you won't be revisiting the job anytime soon. 

LR dealer will still supply Britpart of Bearmach - depending on who LR parts are buying from. As I said - better to buy known quality like Payen

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