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Discovery 3 wheel camber


Simon_CSK

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Front lower arm has the cam, upper arm doesn't.

So on the rear upper the cam is at the hub fitting.

On the front lower the cam is on the chassis fitting.

Advanced Factors have parts drawings on every section which is realy useful

Front lower arm.

The adjusters should not be a problem as the bolts may seize in the bushes but the cam is at the nut side. Clean and lube before trying.

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14 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

I am gettin the wheels alined on my D3 and the garage wants me to free off the bolts. 

 

I would be going somewhere else - the garage should be able to do everything - even set it to Tight Tolerance Mode.

Edited by garrycol
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D3 has Chinese chocolate bolts so I guess they are scared. But tend to agree about garage. When I took mine to have the TC changed I was concerned about the exhaust bolts snapping, garage said not a problem we will be responsible for any remedial work if needed.

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7 hours ago, garrycol said:

I would be going somewhere else - the garage should be able to do everything - even set it to Tight Tolerance Mode.

It is my local independent and I would sooner do the donkey work and let them do the skilled work than pay them to do it all. Freeing off bolts while being a PITA is not something I want to be charged £65 per hour for.

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1 hour ago, Simon_CSK said:

It is my local independent and I would sooner do the donkey work and let them do the skilled work than pay them to do it all. Freeing off bolts while being a PITA is not something I want to be charged £65 per hour for.

A lot depends upon when the bushes/arms were last changed.

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1 hour ago, missingsid said:

A lot depends upon when the bushes/arms were last changed.

I was working on the OS rear which is why I need it redone. SO I know at least one corner is free. Will try freeing up the other three corners tomorrow PM. One wheel at a time.

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7 hours ago, Simon_CSK said:

It is my local independent and I would sooner do the donkey work and let them do the skilled work than pay them to do it all. Freeing off bolts while being a PITA is not something I want to be charged £65 per hour for.

Seems all very odd to me - a 4 wheel alignment is normally drive in and in just over an hour or two drive out - all done - equivalent cost of about 75 pounds.  Do you have to to the nuts and bolts up as well?

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D3 are notorious for seized suspension bolts, when changing the arms (easier than changing bushes) some times you have to cut up the arm to get a grinder or saw in to cut through the bolts. But to be fair the adjusters are on the nut end so not that much of a problem.

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18 hours ago, garrycol said:

Seems all very odd to me - a 4 wheel alignment is normally drive in and in just over an hour or two drive out - all done - equivalent cost of about 75 pounds.  Do you have to to the nuts and bolts up as well?

It may be in OZ where you don't have to deal with wet weather, rust and road salt but here verything seizes up and is a PITA to free off.

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I think the garage are being kind. 

The amount of time potentially required to free off seized nuts / bolts to be able to adjust camber & toe at the rear end could run into many hours on a rusty UK car - which at typical UK garage hourly rates could amount to a lot of money - which they won't want to absorb into a "standard" 4 wheel alignment cost if they've ever worked on a modern LR previously.

I spent nearly 4 hours last year cutting out the toe control arms on my L322 RR because the bolts were rusted into the bushes on the end of the arms.
Even the main hub bush bolts were a "pig" - but fortunately did come out in the end.

I was really lucky with the 4 wheel alignment I had done afterwards. The garage offered a "free" check, but charged £40 for any adjustment - if they could undo the relevant bolts. I'd marked all the adjustment cam washers when I took it apart to fit new bushes & put everything back to the same position. The alignment check showed everything was in the green & in the middle of the specs. I came away smiling & without spending anything !

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The D3 rear toe control arm is held to the hub with a single sheer bolt, IIRC it does not need to be undone to adjust but it does have a history of snapping just being driven so that is another problem area with them.

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