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Steering Relay Bolts


kevin50

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You can recap the threads if you can’t use the existing threads.  There will be no change in function between using Imperial or Metric threads as long as you use a thick enough bolt and go slightly up in size to make sure the new thread is cut into good metal, not crossing the old threads leaving little intact new thread.

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Rethreaded  them metric, fitted box and everything seems nice and tight.  mock fitted the drop arm on box and rod that goes to relay, think I have got it centered or as near as dam it as  was not sure what to do so marked the big nut where steering wheel fits, counted the turns then halved it, not sure if that was right or not ?, Wil need  to reroute the brake pipe somewhere though. Also how much oil does it take to fill relay, ?

 

Does it look right ? Thanks

 

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Edited by kevin50
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All looks good other than the rod end needing a stack of washers for the securing nut against the relay arm.  That will work just as well as having a rod end with the correct length threads, but it’s untidy.  You sound like you have correctly centred the steering box.

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2 hours ago, Snagger said:

All looks good other than the rod end needing a stack of washers for the securing nut against the relay arm.  That will work just as well as having a rod end with the correct length threads, but it’s untidy.  You sound like you have correctly centred the steering box.

Thanks had not noticed that gap in rod end,   gonna nip things up today to see if things move freely 

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27 minutes ago, kevin50 said:

Thanks had not noticed that gap in rod end,   gonna nip things up today to see if things move freely 

For info , Series TRE's are different taper to Defender ...that could be a Defender TRE 

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