JonGM13 Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 Been trying to get my ‘92 finished and on the road. I’m ok with most things but electrics are a no! My RRC has had so many extras fitted that I am removing bit by bit to get her to a standard level. I was all ready for MOT then both ABS lights are on and won’t go out now! Last week fine! It is in wiring. The other thing away from electrics after several hours the brake reservoir back fills so the pump takes over 45 seconds but once system up it’s ok. Could this be an airlock somewhere that hasn’t been eradicated or are the valves failing in the block? We have done a lot of pipe replacement etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 Are the abs lights on when you first turn the key? Or when moving off? The fluid level change is possibly the bomb, but I don't think it is indicative of the issue being shown by the lights. Have you connected the fluid level sensor? Is it functional? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share Posted November 23, 2023 Hi yes both lights are on when turn on ign. In manual it says if lights stay on when you take off the multi plug at back of pressure sensor then it’s a wiring problem! Lights stay on. I tried her up and down the road and both stayed on. fluid level sensor is connected I have tried unplugging and plugging it. No change. Not sure how to test it is faulty? I have tried doing the reading flash codes and I get 2 : 3 which I think is pressure switch but have changed pump and pressure switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share Posted November 23, 2023 Could the cap sensor fail? We had reservoir at correct level but when the back feed happens it fills the rest our brim full and I noticed it had forced fluid out , so could the pressure get in and mess up the sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share Posted November 23, 2023 Bowie69 this is what I have inherited and desperate for someone to help eradicate!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 this might help: Blink Test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share Posted November 23, 2023 If you read I have done this several times now. It is giving me 2:3 which from what I can find to be the Pressure switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 1 hour ago, JonGM13 said: If you read I have done this several times now. It is giving me 2:3 which from what I can find to be the Pressure switch. If you read that again it could have sounded ever so slightly ungrateful You haven't got a wheel bearing out, have you? Pushing fluid back to master. Have you checked the wiring to the switch? I don't know why that would be an instant failure, either shorted or open it isn't in a fault state, just open or closed. Does the pump run when you switch the ignition on? What if you jumper the connection to the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 23, 2023 Author Share Posted November 23, 2023 (edited) Hi, I apologise if it came across like that. I am getting so frustrated with something that must be so simple, started on this beginning of September! This year!! bearings are fine, we have new discs on rear, new pads all around, double checked wear tab connections. the annoying thing is that it was all ok, drove it home. Lights all went out. left her for a couple of days then I noticed the resavoir was brimmer and it had forced out some fluid. when I switched ignition on the pump ran for ages till it had built up pressure and the level had dropped to upper mark. So really that’s a lot fluid gone back in. I have a spare block on stand by! if the pump has been run and pressurised then when ever I turn on it doesn’t run again unless I press the pedal or leave it for a couple of hours. I took her down the road for a short drive and the pedal feel is good, brakes work well, you hear pump cutting in for only seconds. blink test keeps giving 2:3. And lights stay on when I remove plug off back of pressure switch which workshop say is wiring fault. I’ve been trying to find the problem now for a couple weeks as i said. From working to not working the vehicle was stationary, I understand your thoughts re bearings. can the brake fluid reservoir sender break down / could I override it any way to test? the both red lights are on as soon as turn on ign. When pressurised up they both slightly blink then both become bright. Edited November 23, 2023 by JonGM13 Missed out something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 24, 2023 Author Share Posted November 24, 2023 On 11/23/2023 at 12:48 PM, bishbosh said: this might help: Blink Test Sorry about sounding a bit abrupt in my reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted November 25, 2023 Author Share Posted November 25, 2023 On 11/23/2023 at 3:28 PM, Bowie69 said: If you read that again it could have sounded ever so slightly ungrateful You haven't got a wheel bearing out, have you? Pushing fluid back to master. Have you checked the wiring to the switch? I don't know why that would be an instant failure, either shorted or open it isn't in a fault state, just open or closed. Does the pump run when you switch the ignition on? What if you jumper the connection to the switch. Hi Bowie69 Sent you a PM but I repeated it thinking the first hadn't gone, the 2nd has more info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted December 4, 2023 Share Posted December 4, 2023 Where are you to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Are the Pressure switches on the RRC ABS pump interchangeable with a P38 one? I have been informed that the combined P38 pump and accumulator can be used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonGM13 Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Are the Pressure switches on the RRC ABS pump interchangeable with a P38 one? I have been informed that the combined P38 pump and accumulator can be used! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncmc Posted August 2 Share Posted August 2 I am coming to this part just a bit late, The Webasto ABS system on the RRC is actually really good. Yes, it's a real PITA to bleed, but you have to follow the workshop manual instructions for bleeding to the letter. That means about 32 times to open a bleed nipple. Any air left at all and it will takes a long time for the pump to shut of initially, and it will keep cycling frequently. I have had a bad pressure switch in the past. The P38 pump is a slightly different shape I think, but it is doing the same job. If you pump runs, I would stick with the RRC pump and just swap the pressure switch if that is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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