Troll Hunter Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 1991 Defender 110 CSW, original engine and gearbox was a 3.5 V8 coupled to an LT77S, both replaced and now it’s got a 300tdi coupled to an R380. This change was done by independent LR specialists in UK. I need to replace the hydraulic clutch line, both sections. As far as I know the clutch master cylinder is the original, and I assume that the slave cylinder is the appropriate one for the R380 gearbox/clutch. Please can somebody tell me the sizes and threads or specifications for the couplings at each end of the clutch line and at the joining of the two sections? Also, is there a readily available option for installing a one-piece braided flexible line? Many thanks, in advance, for any info you can provide. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 If you want a flexible stainless steel covered hose ask David at Llama 4x4. He made one for me a while ago. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmmv Posted January 17 Share Posted January 17 Or try Pioneer4x4. I have no links or experience of them, just noticed what they offered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Many thanks for your suggestions for sourcing a braided hose. What about the end connections? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I skirted the clutch pipe thread topic a few years ago when I had some slave cylinder problems, there seems to be early imperial threads and later metric threads, I took the easy route of re-using a fitting that I had that happened to fit the slave cylinder I had... not helpful I know. It is worth noting that I believe all TDI era slaves are interchangeable from the clutch actuation point, the fitting looks very similar to brake pipe fitting, your best bet it to get a measure of what you have to avoid confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 I buy TFE hose & fittings form Think Automotive (their own brand) and make my own, I can't remember what the clutch is but I do know you need -4 hose (as opposed to -3 for the brakes), it's nice as doing the whole lot in flexi makes a lot of stuff easier, you can unbolt things and move them out of the way without breaking into the system, and you can put nicer ends (EG a banjo fitting) on to make life easier / create clearance / make routing nicer. Also means you can buy colour-coded hoses if you're a tart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 My thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted January 19 Author Share Posted January 19 13 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: Also means you can buy colour-coded hoses if you're a tart Ooh! you have got me excited now❤️🔥🈲️! Thank you for your responses and suggestions. Yes, it’s this potential mix of imperial and metric threads that I’m afraid of. I think that your suggestion of cutting off the old fittings and either reusing them or using them to identify the correct replacements is the way to go. I also like both the suggestions of using banjo fittings and of fitting an easier access bleed screw. As far as lying on the ground is concerned, if I can’t be bothered to remove my pit cover, I lie on a double thickness sheet of bubble wrap. It’s insulating and more comfortable than bare earth or concrete. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 19 Share Posted January 19 8 hours ago, Troll Hunter said: Ooh! you have got me excited now❤️🔥🈲️! worth saying that the plastic sleeved ones also help keep mud out of the braid as well as adding 10bhp if they're a bright colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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