Mediamab Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 The tapping noise on my original v8 3.5 seems to be potentially sounding more obvious. It appears to come once the engine has started to warm up. If anything is louder inside the truck than out side too. I thought could be an exhaust manifold gasket but now I’m not too sure. Anyone have any ideas of what it could be or what I could be inspecting? These couple of videos show it quite clearly… IMG_0403.mov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 20 Author Share Posted January 20 2nd from the passenger side wheel arch which I lean towards saying it’s definitely more towards that side or the middle but hard to tell… IMG_0405.mov Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Usually the V8 guys who have forgotten more than I'll ever know would chime in by now, so I'll offer my probably-wrong opinion. It's probably either a lifter or an exhaust leak. One of those is a lot cheaper than the others, so I would start with any obvious leaks. If not, it might be time to inspect the cam. But to warn you, I've had a similar noise since putting in my 4.0 and nothing has completely solved it. New lifters, top hat cylinder liners, new gaskets, new exhaust manifolds and downpipes. Mine is still the roughest sounding Rover V8 I'm aware of. I will say, the single biggest change was going from aftermarket lifters to genuine, where it became quieter and less of these noises. But it's different to pour in a load of money when you know the history of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 2 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said: Mine is still the roughest sounding Rover V8 I'm aware of. This is the same V8 I tried to start while running because I couldn't hear it To me though, the second video sounds like a small exhaust leak, nothing more sinister. Look for any sooty stains at all the exhaust joints, not just where it bolts to the head. Where it does bolt to the head, start from hold and use your finger tips to detect any passing gasses . Normally pretty obvious. Picking out this kind of noise is very difficult from a smartphone recoding, their mics aren't great and coupled with dubious audio compression means a lot of the actual sounds you think are there are just noise -this is why I didn't originally comment, diagnosing stuff like noises over the internet is incredibly difficult. You also can't tell where the noise is coming from, which is probably 80% of the diagnosis. If it is a mechanical tick then a long screwdriver can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Ow totally appreciate a recording is not ideal. ill try and have a good look today and fingers crossed spot the issue and feel confident it’s an exhaust leak as I do wander if it’s below the engine potentially. The bolts on the exhaust headers (and the lovely earth wire too ha) make me feel probably a high chance it’s coming from there. There’s a mix of anything from 0 washers to about 8! They are something I’d like to sort either way. Are there any advised gaskets and bolts to get these replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 I used cap screws for my 3.9, but on the 4.6 have used bolts and the locking plates. For gaskets I used ERC3606, but there are a few others, these are harder to fit being single pieces but give easier access for changing the spark plugs than some of the multiple ones. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-engine/v8-petrol-carburetter/exhaust-manifold-without-heat-transfer-cover_53359 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Thanks @Paul C - that’s super useful. I assume best to not use stainless bolts? Maybe dumb question what do the locking plates do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 As you have headers.... Well, they are noisier than normal manifolds for a start. I've run stainless, along with a good amount of copper slip I have had no issued with corrosion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 I’m assuming that’s the case with most parts? Can switch to SS bolts but use copper slip and should be fine? Just keen to make my engine bay look less tractor like ha! Just to help neaten up things too I assume I can spray the manifolds with suitable high temp paint too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 (edited) I had my manifolds ceramic coated, I had stainless cap screws but they did loosen so have gone back to hex bolts and locking plates. I wanted to use the spacers ERR6318 that they used on the disco2 4.0 to allow for different expansion rates but couldn't find any used and wasn't paying the price for new ones. Edited January 21 by Paul C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Thank you this is super useful! I was considering ceramic coating but price put me off though appreciate it also helps with heat a lot over just looking better! I’m still a little torn between replacing the whole system with SS but £££ haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 I have used stainless for the rear section but made my own front pipes in mild steel and ceramic coated them also. I used a RR classic rear section in 2.5in as it was more easily available. For you in the UK it is easier to get everything off the shelf, rimmerbros.co.uk have both mild and stainless in stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Yeah I actually contacted double s who I can get whole system, inc manifolds for 700 direct. I’m determined for this to be a keeper too so do want to do everything to ensure it’s setup for the long term. Though do wish I had the skills you have to make some parts myself ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Talk to @ThreePointFive about double s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Hate to break it to you, but I think you might already be running Double S headers and you think you have an exhaust leak... These two things may be related. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Ow I assumed the headers weren’t stainless? (Not that I’m that knowledgable in metals!) assume experience of them isn’t good with leaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 For a long time I blamed my headers for my ticking noise, in the end I don't think they were the cause but they were not entirely gas tight. There's some general fitment issues with Double S I had to contend with. I had to shape mine with a hammer to make them clear the chassis rail. you won't get headers for less, (I've been quoted over £1k to replace them alone) but there are materials and workmanship issues. Having said all of the above, mine are for sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 I see, well probably best to stay away from then. I do have a receipt for a SS exhaust system but that’s literally all it says. The garage that did all the work, including engine rebuild don’t add much detail and contacting them they couldn’t confirm any details but I didn’t think the manifolds were stainless? I guess the price shows that it’s probably not the best. I’m not aware of any other full SS in kit form either. I notice rimmerbros sell one and they don’t say it’s double S. I did get a quote on a full system inc manifolds from demand but … budget haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 I strongly recommend Mini exhaust studs + brass nuts - 3/8" UNC thread into the head, 3/8" UNF (fine) thread on the nuts so you can get better clamping and brass nuts don't seize or rust. I run them on both my V8's. Only wrinkle is you may need to chop 5-10mm off the fine end of the rear ones if you want to be able to remove the manifold with the studs in situ otherwise the bulkhead gets in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 5 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: I strongly recommend Mini exhaust studs + brass nuts - 3/8" UNC thread into the head, 3/8" UNF (fine) thread on the nuts so you can get better clamping and brass nuts don't seize or rust. I run them on both my V8's. Only wrinkle is you may need to chop 5-10mm off the fine end of the rear ones if you want to be able to remove the manifold with the studs in situ otherwise the bulkhead gets in the way. This definitely sounds like a good plan. With regards to installing the studs (sorry never used them ha) how do you go about putting them in and ensuring the right torque? (What would that be on studs and nuts?) a tried and tested method is 100% what I want to go with and why I’m here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Be careful about torque settings if you use a fine threaded stud, the factory setting is for coarse threads so could be more likely to strip the threads in the heads if you use the same setting. The factory bolts and locking plates have been used for years, only from the 4.0 did they change it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 www.v8forum.co.uk is a good site for rover v8 information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 (edited) Soo I may be in luck (maybe wrong word) but I assume these are likely the issue. Obviously one is a clamp which I can replace assume the other requires welding? Is there an alternative? Also the passenger side manifolds definitely far dirtier than drivers and one picture of the back of manifold from underneath Edited January 21 by Mediamab 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Yeah, that'll do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Is there anything I can use to fill that hole without welding? I assume the other is simply replace the clamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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