Bowie69 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 41 minutes ago, elbekko said: Yeah, that'll do it. Yup, ticky ticky. 33 minutes ago, Mediamab said: Is there anything I can use to fill that hole without welding? I assume the other is simply replace the clamp? Nope, you can just zap it with some MIG, contrary to popular believe using mild steel wire on stainless exhausts is absolutely fine, just don't expect them to last forever, but the weld will pick up some of the stainless elements and likely outlast you, especially in a hot place like the header. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Downside is I don’t have a MIG welder but imagine the local garage should do! Assume there’s not another more solution even if more temporary? do you think the soot looking residue on the exhaust manifold could be a cause too? Thinking definitely not as explicit as the other too tho! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 2 minutes ago, Mediamab said: Assume there’s not another more solution even if more temporary? Not really, a garage would just crawl under, wire brush (unless you have already) and zap it in 30s or less, hand them some beer money and away you go. 3 minutes ago, Mediamab said: do you think the soot looking residue on the exhaust manifold could be a cause too? Not sure, could be burnt oil, I'd clean it off with brake cleaner/some other solvent and then see what returns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Ah ok yeah see you’re point it’s a tiny job I’ll give them a bell tomorrow. the damaged clamp I assume just replace like for like or is there a better type of clamp around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 Like for like, but a better thing to do is separate it, apply assembly lube, rafit and fit new clamp. Or just weld it up 😁 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 21 Author Share Posted January 21 Thank you for everyone’s help!!! 😃Hopefully in the next couple of weeks I can get this all sorted and move to fuel and ignition and the wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 20 hours ago, Mediamab said: With regards to installing the studs (sorry never used them ha) how do you go about putting them in and ensuring the right torque? You wind the stud into the head pretty much finger-tight, then fit the manifold over the studs (as I said you *may* need to trim the stud ends for that - you can see how long they are in my photo) and torque the brass nuts up to whatever feels reasonable - pretty sure none of it needs to be at massive torque, it's not holding the wheels on! Willing to bet the soot looking residue on the exhaust is... soot from the exhaust, due to the fact most V8's run rich some or all of the time. 19 hours ago, Paul C said: Be careful about torque settings if you use a fine threaded stud, the factory setting is for coarse threads so could be more likely to strip the threads in the heads if you use the same setting. Conversely because you're not turning the part that's in the head you're giving those threads an easier time... also I think you'd have to try quite hard to torque an exhaust nut so hard you pull the threads out of the head, but I suppose there's always some talented soul who can manage it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 Thanks @FridgeFreezer I assume as simple as cutting the stud with a grinder? Though I’m guess not possible to just buy shorter studs and all shorter? Was just talking to a friend who’s an engineer at RR. He suggested copper nuts even better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 22 Share Posted January 22 Has he seen the cost of copper lately? Don't get your exhaust fixed, I like knowing there's one that sounds rougher than mine running about. Glad you found the cause though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 22 Author Share Posted January 22 Haha well that’s just egged me on more to get the tapping gone 😃 gonna try swapping muffler too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 8 hours ago, ThreePointFive said: Has he seen the cost of copper lately? Don't get your exhaust fixed, I like knowing there's one that sounds rougher than mine running about. Glad you found the cause though. You obviously haven't listened to mine yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 12 hours ago, Mediamab said: Thanks @FridgeFreezer I assume as simple as cutting the stud with a grinder? Though I’m guess not possible to just buy shorter studs and all shorter? Was just talking to a friend who’s an engineer at RR. He suggested copper nuts even better? Yes you can probably buy studs the right length, these ones just happen to work because they are for classic Minis they're available cheap with the brass nuts - I think Spalding Fasteners on ebay do them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Ahh I didn’t realise mini meant for an actual mini haha sounds great! Thanks for all your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Sorry one more what is the length of the side of the stud that goes into the engine block that I require? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 23 Share Posted January 23 Just checked, I got mine from Namrick, part numbers: 3069 - 3/8" UNC/F x 2" Manifold-Stud 3169744 - 3/8" UNF Manifold Nut Brass 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 23 Author Share Posted January 23 Legend @FridgeFreezer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Well… I haven’t done anything where headers meet the engine but fixing the blowing areas further down the line hasn’t made any difference at all. I’m struggling to see any marks around the headers but I assume still a good chance it’s those? I assume the next steps if not that get a lot more complex? One other slight worry is I touched the back driver side ignition lead and it gave me one hell of a shock. Obviously I’m aware that’s not a good thing but friend mentioned that could cause cylinder to not fire properly and could cause clicking sound too…? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 It could, what make leads are they? And if you pull it off does it make a difference to the running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Says “Rists supression 1015”? We took that one off and didn’t really affect the engine but lead found anything metal to spark on so very quickly turned off. Interestingly removing two leads of the other side also made no difference to engine but they weren’t causing any sparking… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I'd be checking the dizzy cap, rotor etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Well good thing is I had planned to upgrade the ignition system anyway. I assume I should be seeing more of an impact removing leads too? Could explain why it seems to have little power compare to my td5? hopefully once I have that and manifolds sorted the tapping will stop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 I found my engine doesn't care much about missing leads. This sounds like a good thing except it makes diagnosing rough running very difficult. I had one hanging fully off the plug lying on the exhaust manifold, only difference it made was.... a loud ticking noise. What I'm saying is don't worry too much about how well it runs without leads. Either way you're finding problems that won't help and need to be fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 Wise words yeah I’ll get my ignition kit ordered and new gaskets and bolts for manifold and hope things start improving! Thinking of going for RPIs full get with new dizzy and amp - seems like it’s seen to be a good kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 27 Share Posted January 27 Avoid RPI, please. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted January 27 Author Share Posted January 27 4 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Avoid RPI, please. Issues with their kit? Is there a kit you’d advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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