bushwhacker Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 Is this OK to solder up or is it scrap? Thanks in advance. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 I think I would replace the complete alternator. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted April 13 Share Posted April 13 I had this on a BMW Motorbike. The reason are vibrations. It is possible to solder, but don't expect to much. It will break again, as long as it vibrates. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 I had a look at this again and I was able to unwind enough wire from the blue plastic thing to make it back into the crimped terminal as it was. It appears to have worked out well getting 14.18 on the battery. Thanks for the posts guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 14.5 v output would be better at 2500rpm no loads on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 Ok thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and save for a new alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 14 Share Posted April 14 14.18 at the battery is fine, there will be voltage drop between the alternator and battery so you won't see the full 14.5V Other cars have a straight 14V regulator, and charge fine. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted April 14 Author Share Posted April 14 My repair. It saved me £150 for now.🤑 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 I am getting the red battery light flickering at low revs going out as revs go up and staying off at higher revs. The ammeter in the dash will drop slightly but no battery light when I put a load on ie blower motor, demist rear screen and wipers I was wondering how a rectifier or regulator fault would show up? Regards Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted May 25 Share Posted May 25 If the light comes on at engine start, goes out when the revs climb, and stays out when the revs fall again, then that's (sort of) normal and I wouldn't worry too much. Rectifier faults can show in various ways but often a dim warning light that stays on all the time. I wouldn't expect it to change with revs, though that otherwise sounds the most likely fault if you had a broken winding you've now fixed. Regulator/brush pack faults often intermittent red light or red light only at high revs, ok at idle (sticking/warn brushes) If it's just started showing the issue, but nothing has changed, then worth investigating. If it's always done it, or you changed the alt and the new one does it, but the old one didn't, it's probably fine. If this is the one you soldered, then presumably you are happy the brushes and slip rings cleaned up ok? (The sliprings look a tad rough in the pics, but that might just be a trick of the camera) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted May 25 Author Share Posted May 25 Thanks, yea I did give the sliprings a wee dress up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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