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Low operating force clutch on a diesel 2a


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Good evening all. 

I have to do something to make the clutch pedal on my 1963 2a diesel a bit more user friendly.  I have arthritis in my knees, particularly the left one, and the clutch is heavy enough I'm on the edge of not being able to push it to the floor.  I'd very much like to solve this before it assumes "no can drive" proportions.

I've been looking through the archives and found quite a bit about the LOF clutch but I've yet to find any quantitative data indicating just how effective the LOF clutch is, ideally in terms of what pedal force reduction can be expected.  Given it will involve taking a perfectly good clutch out and scrapping it, then installing a new clutch I'd very much like to satisfy myself that the result will be worth while, and will alleviate or even solve the problem.

Other solutions are available of course, such as fitting an auto box, having a new knee, sitting in the passenger seat.  But the LOF approach seems very attractive.  Does it live up to its promises?

Regards as ever Simon

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No direct experience of the LOF clutch (got a link?), but another option is to fit a servo to the clutch, which would make it featherlight. 

It can be behind the master, or remote. 

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The easiest way to go is to fit a remote servo, it's what I did on my old 2.5 diesel engined series 3.

I used a (new)brake servo for an MGB, came as a kit with all mounting hardware and hoses.

It does indeed as Bowie 69 says, make the clutch featherlight.

I'm sure I posted pictures of it on here as the question has been asked before.

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I've got a LOF slave cylinder on my 109 (R380 box) and it's very good, pedal is as light if not lighter than some modern cars (my BMW Mini's clutch is about as heavy). I don't have any way of actually measuring the force for you.

Worth saying this is ONLY a slave cylinder, all the other parts are original - they also do master cylinders and clutches but you should not fit all of the parts together or they will be so "over assisted" the pedal will never come up!

I fitted the slave when my stock one died, so it's an easy swap (2 bolts, bleed the line).

Got one waiting to go on the 127 when I get a moment.

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As mentioned, replacing the slave cylinder for the LOF one is a big improvement:

Pedal Assist Products - LOF Clutches

You can also replace the clutch pedal for a later defender one (300 TDI or newer I think), which has an over center return spring. If you buy the LOF set this also includes a stronger return spring.

Gazzar, described how he fitted a later pedal to his series here with the LOF over centre spring:

The series 2 has a different clutch actuator setup compared with the series 3 and defender, but the clutch pedal looks the same, so I think it will work.

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Pedal is almost a direct swap from a td5.

I'm also fitting the lof master, as, well, why not? 

 

I'll report once the brake fluid shows up!

 

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5 hours ago, Simon Williams said:

Thanks for the interest.  A brake servo presumably needs a vacuum source.  How did you do this?

I'd fitted a 2.5 na diesel that had a vacuum pump for the brake servo, so I just came off that with a T fitting and a non return valve. It worked perfectly.

If you have a 2A with single circuit brakes and no servo you can fit the later butterfly valve and vacuum tank set up as fitted to brake servo equipped models and that will give you a vac' source.

The servo has to be mounted in a certain orientation to work correctly but that wasn't too difficult, the plumbing is straightforward and it can all be returned to standard quite easily.

I have no experience of the other set up's people are talking about or how light they make the clutch, but I can tell you a servo'd clutch is as light as you will ever want it.

I had pictures of the set up as I had to have engine bay photo's for agreed value insurance but I can't seem to find them and the vehicle is long since sold.

 

 

Edited by pat_pending
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