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Heated front and rear screens


Dunc

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Hi everyone,

Please don't laugh at these questions.

On the 'control panel', for want of a better description, on the dashboard you've got the windscreen button (rectangular) for the rear window and the 'wiper arc' button for the front heated windscreen.

1) How do i check the switches are functioning correctly once i've taken them out of the dash?

2) Is it ok to solder onto the heated rear window? One of my connections has come off...

3) Anyone recommend a stockist for heated front windscreens?

Thanks very much

Dunc

(happy again!)

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1. Test for continuity on the switches. With the switch closed you should get a near zero reading (and or beep depending on your multimeter).

2. Don't know :blink:

3. What is your windscreen excess? If £100 or less then a quick call to your insurers following an incident with Land Rover Tool No 1 should see you right <_<<_<

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1. Test for continuity on the switches. With the switch closed you should get a near zero reading (and or beep depending on your multimeter).

2. Don't know :blink:

3. What is your windscreen excess? If £100 or less then a quick call to your insurers following an incident with Land Rover Tool No 1 should see you right <_<<_<

Thanks Bish, much obliged.

I surely couldn't condone vandalating my own windscreen... But with the amount of stones that bounce off it each week from the Tarmac wagons that are on our roads it surely wont be long!

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Dunc,

i have a product frmo somewhere which is a conductive epoxy resin which i am going to use to glue a tab back onto the heated screen i have before installation. it was either from screwfix or frosts can't remember which now but i'll try and dig out the link sometime for you.

Bishs hammer techbique works quite well too or so i'm told!

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Dunc,

i have a product frmo somewhere which is a conductive epoxy resin which i am going to use to glue a tab back onto the heated screen i have before installation. it was either from screwfix or frosts can't remember which now but i'll try and dig out the link sometime for you.

Bishs hammer techbique works quite well too or so i'm told!

Jim you're a superstar.

Never thought of epoxy, i'll go have a butchers at the Frost site to see what they've got.

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I managed to solder the connector on to my son's Mini rear screen.

Localised heat is the problem here. Too much for too long and you risk a stress crack/shattering.

I did it on a very sunny summer's day so the glass was almost too hot to touch to begin with.

I cleaned both parts of the damaged connector thoroughly and used a liquid flux,Baker's I think, not relying on the flux in the cored solder.

The solder flowed very quickly and made a good joint which lasted until the Mini was sold.

Mind you I was using a professional temp controlled soldering iron with a large bit.

You might struggle with the usual DIY soldering iron.

Bob :)

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I managed to solder the connector on to my son's Mini rear screen.

Localised heat is the problem here. Too much for too long and you risk a stress crack/shattering.

I did it on a very sunny summer's day so the glass was almost too hot to touch to begin with.

I cleaned both parts of the damaged connector thoroughly and used a liquid flux,Baker's I think, not relying on the flux in the cored solder.

The solder flowed very quickly and made a good joint which lasted until the Mini was sold.

Mind you I was using a professional temp controlled soldering iron with a large bit.

You might struggle with the usual DIY soldering iron.

Bob :)

Forgot to mention that you can dismantle the switches, (they just "click" together), and clean the contacts.

Just rub off any burnt areas with a bit of glasspaper or a fine file until you're down to shiny metal then re-assemble and test again.

A simple bulb and battery is OK for continuity tests if you don't have a meter.

I find it's better to do this on a piece of old newspaper on the kitchen table (if you're allowed!), then if any small bits drop out you can find them more easily than in a grubby garage/drive.

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I used this silver loaded epoxy from RS however I got mine for free and unfortunately have none left.

Poxy resin

Hth

Pete.

Excellent! I never knew it existed :) I'm thinking that it would be good for bonding earths onto aluminium - like you might want to for a CB aerial base? Truly - anything you need to know you can find out on this forum :D

Rog

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Are you sat down :huh:

From a stealer, eithe rbonded on non-bonded front heated screen comes in at over £530

Fitted, my bonded front screen weighed in at £826 :o

Kinell. :blink:

I think i'll just stick to demisters...

Oh, i bought a bottle of 'anti-fog' Rain-X off eBay too. £2.99 + p&p ;)

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