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Anyone got any hints for changing an ignition switch? Took apart mates landy today confirming along the way that the ignition part (prc8230) is the faulty item (cutting of 12v to feul solenoid while cranking).

Any hints for getting rid of shear bolts etc. It looks like we should just be able to pop the part out and squeeze a new one in without taking the switch off the column?

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Anyone got any hints for changing an ignition switch? Took apart mates landy today confirming along the way that the ignition part (prc8230) is the faulty item (cutting of 12v to feul solenoid while cranking).

Any hints for getting rid of shear bolts etc. It looks like we should just be able to pop the part out and squeeze a new one in without taking the switch off the column?

I usually manage to get the shear bolts out by punching them round using a long centre punch.

The switch is held in the back of the steering lock assembly by two small grub screws.

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As SBR60 says, there are two grub screws holding the switch to the key mechanism. You can get at one screw but not the other. The security bolts can be undone using the method he descibes. Replace with ordinary M8 coarse bolts or buy new security bolts and tighten until the head snaps off.

Les.

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The torqu at which the security bolt heads shear is ridiculously low and the material so soft that what I do to remove them is use a slender sharp chisel to make a slot in the bolt head, then turn the bolt out with a flat blade screwdriver

Lewis :)

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ahh, thanks for that. I did manage to get the grub screw out on both sides, but the switch mechanism didn't want to play. However I didn't have an epc handy to see what I should be removing, so I didn't give it too much grief.

I'll pass on the info about trying to create a slot in the head, it's a right fiddly job, but hopefully should be sorted fairly quickly. At least it gave him some practice as he had changed the lift pump before we looked at this, intermittent starting and fine one going, so sounded like solenoid or lift pump issues...

The landy hidden third option :)

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If you've managed to get both grub screws out then the switch should come out. When the switch starts to fail it's because the contact gets worn inside and doesn't activate the starter motor. The sparking that occurs inside the switch melts the plasic and it becomes black and burnt. Perhaps the switch is just siezed inside the alloy casing becasue of this.

Les.

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back of the switch was hanging off :)

Symptom was that the engine would turn over but wouldn't start. Could hear solenoid clicking when ignition was on and we touched the wire, so that seemed fine. It would also seem to be difficult to start, but when going was fine.

So having checked the obvious it seemed maybe a faulty lift pump (140k on the clock so not a surprise) which he changed. Still didn't go, so we cracked an injector and didn't get fuel leaking out as I expected.

Bit puzzled, so the next thing to check was solenoid supply, which was 0v with everything off, 12v on pos II (?), but when cranking went to 0v....

we ran a wire from battery to solenoid and she started easy, so checking the circuit diagram it looked like the wire from ign to solenoid was just that, pulled the dash apart and we saw the back was askew. He turned it and I poked the back and it started. pushed the back off a little and tried again and no start.

Found the grub screws and removed them (back one was a bit tricky and I was sweating about dropping it :) ). But the back of the switch only came off (and could see all the contacts etc). Can't seem to get that out, but wasn't sure if there was something more to it, HBOL was no use, and no net connection at his place at mo so just left it (plus need new part anyway).

Think it is just age, 1991 and he's bounced the 110 around a lot.. so it looks like it has just vibrated and the lugs have lost their grip on the plastic back bit.

HBOL suggested that the shear bolts should still have heads on.. not likely and no useful pictures...

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same as mine, back of switch had come loose.

Should be simple if you have both screws out - switch should be able to be pulled out of the rear with a bit of wiggling.

No need to take the barrel off.

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