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rock sliders


jamescars9cars
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Because the RR sill is curved vertically, it is quite difficult to get home made rock sliders to look the part IMHO.

If you do make some, make sure you put tree sliders on them and make sure they stick out a LONG way otherwise you will still trash your doors (ask me how I know!! :lol: )

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  • 1 year later...
Because the RR sill is curved vertically, it is quite difficult to get home made rock sliders to look the part IMHO.

If you do make some, make sure you put tree sliders on them and make sure they stick out a LONG way otherwise you will still trash your doors (ask me how I know!! :lol: )

Sorry for dredging this up Bish but could you give a distance for "a LONG way"?

Is around 3" sufficent?

Many thanks,

Mick.

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No idea mate - don't have a RR anymore :( :( :(

Try dropping a plumb line from the most sticky out bit of the door and add a bit to that. If you do both sides you can average the measurement to compensate for saggy springs / lopsided driveway!

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No idea mate - don't have a RR anymore :( :( :(

Try dropping a plumb line from the most sticky out bit of the door and add a bit to that. If you do both sides you can average the measurement to compensate for saggy springs / lopsided driveway!

Could well be 3 feet on mine! :D

Cheers Bish.

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Fabricating rock sliders is no great problem, even getting the curve on them (if I can do it then just about anyone can, except perhaps the £800 cage man on Ebay! lol) It is getting a sensible and suitable mounting to the bodywork or chassis (depending on preference) which will be the problem. I know the pics are from a Disco but it is a 4 door and the principle would be the same for a RRC.

Mark

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they can be made to any protrusion you want - but the ones above we made stick out from the slider face by 78mm (just over 3" ish) and this puts them about an inch wider than the widest body of the disco.

the tube is 33mm x 3mm , the box is 100mm x 50mm

if you need any further help , let me know as I have details on where the cuts are made to make the curve too.

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they can be made to any protrusion you want - but the ones above we made stick out from the slider face by 78mm (just over 3" ish) and this puts them about an inch wider than the widest body of the disco.

the tube is 33mm x 3mm , the box is 100mm x 50mm

if you need any further help , let me know as I have details on where the cuts are made to make the curve too.

Thanks very much David,

A drawing of where to make the cuts will save me a headache and would be greatly appreciated.

Quick question, would you consider your sliders to be "Jackable" with that wall thickness?

Many thanks,

Mick.

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yep they are jackable - the highlift goes under the treeslider part and it jacks fine with no movement.

I make the cuts with a saw most of the way thru the tube, then go down the top half or so with a grinder to widen it a bit further, V the groove out - get it into the right postion then weld it round then grind it flat.

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yep they are jackable - the highlift goes under the treeslider part and it jacks fine with no movement.

I make the cuts with a saw most of the way thru the tube, then go down the top half or so with a grinder to widen it a bit further, V the groove out - get it into the right postion then weld it round then grind it flat.

Thanks very much David.

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Hi Guys,

I am very interested in this as i am looking to fit/make some to my Discovery 2 td5. Same principles would apply i would have thought?

But as far as i can tell there isnt a straight edge in sight! It seems to bend into the vehicle as well as down and up the sill.

I am also interested in how you guys managed to get a nice smooth bend! Your bends dont seem to have a kink in sight.

I made some for my lightweight but these were perfectly straight. This seems on another level!

Cheers.

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I will did out my drawings to confirm the measurement , but I basically got a recip saw and cut all the way through the 100x50 box until it was down to the last remaining side ie the bottom - then I opened up the cut about to about halfway down with an angle grinder. This gave me enough movement - 10mm at the end to get the curve right. I V'ed out the groove welded round it and then flattened it off.

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Hi David,

I assume that you only make one cut! Is this to allow bending in the vertical direction to match the line of the bottom of the doors or is it to match where the door tucks in at the back towards the rear wheel?

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I only made one cut on mine, you can see it on the 1st and 2nd pics. On the second pic you can see that the cut is directly in line with the cutout I made to allow the slider to fit snugly around the base of the B pillar. I made a shallow V cut from the top down, leaving the base of the Box uncut and then bent the box up to correct shape and welded it back up I think i used 50mm box which is just deep enough to come below the original sills. i also welded a flat along the back of the box which is parallel to the base of the sills and helps spread any loads from upwards thrust. Maybe overkill but I usually like to adopt a belt and braces approach to my engineering solutions!

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Right, I see were you are all coming from now :blink: I'll go out today and see if I can measure the curve on the LSE. Trouble is it currently has a Brookland kit on it!

Do you bother to leave any gaps between the existing cill and the rock slider :unsure: Is there any advantage in bolting the rock slider to the cill (I would assume that if you dent the slider your likely to trash the cill in this case)?

I think I'll wander down to my local metal merchant and get some box section and tubing :D

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Right! I went out yesterday with a straight edge to measure the door bottoms! I still have the Brooklands kit on the LSE so had to open the doors to check, whilst the 100" had the cill finisher removed so was easier.

Anyway, I found the following;-

The bottom of the front wing is dead straight.

The rear door is dead straight (both 100" and LSE)

The front door has the first third (or thereabouts) and the last third dead straight. The middle third is curved.

So my conclusion is that the front wing and first part of the front door are in line. The middle section of the front door curves and the last part of the front door is straight and lines up with the rear door. This should be the same for the Discovery. However, due to the tolerances on the door fitting, they don't always line up properly.

I think that if you get your bit of 100x50 and cut half a dozen or so slots down to the bottom starting at 600mm from the front and spread over 300-350mm you should be able to bend your rock slider to the right shape! You just need to weld it after that.

I'm going to have a go at this and see how it comes out.

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