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boost(ylicious)


callum
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sorry, terrible pun, if you can even call it that

following on from this intercooler thread

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7909

my intercooler has unfortunatley remained for a year now as an engine bay ornament with tesco bags taped over the ends. alas the end of summer holidays crept up quicker than i'd hoped and i had to return for my sixth and final year at uni, thus leaving no time to continue working on it.

now i'm freeeeee and have been getting bits and bobs for it over the year to finish it off, still need a few things, but i'll get em sorted.

i finally worked out how to wire in the isuzu rev counter (its a black, and a black and red wire coming off the fuel pump, black goes to earth and red goes to the blue of the rev counter) a few weeks ago and it all works fine so i know what revs i'm doing. being slightly short of cash i just used the free one i took out of the trooper when i took its engine. its rather big, but after a bit of black spray paint it looks alright and does the job

last week a boost gauge arrived and last night i had a look at it and decided what fittings were required.

lo and behold, various pneumatic fittings were lying on the garage floor when i opened the door this afternoon, seems my father must have been in work this morning.

so i fitted it and took it for a test run to see how things were. it goes to 0.9 bar at close to 4000rpm. that is 13psi and 675 mmhg. isuzu manual reckons 660 mmhg (0.88 bar, 12.8 psi), so that is ok.

the needle on the boost gauge is really fluttery when not really boosting, not by a great deal, but at really high frequency. i don't know if that is an issue. i shall speak to my pneumatics expert (father) when he gets home. its solid when boosting though, so maybe it is ok.

next step is installing the boost controller thing. it seems to be basically a screw valve to restrict pressure, beofre allowing it to escape as normal to the wastegate. i bought it to up the boost slightly to compensate for the presence of the intercooler, rather than to try running something like the 20psi allisport run their isuzu 2.8 at. it seems a bit inaccurate (been trying wth a track pump) and my father didn't think much of it. anyone used/using one?

after that lots of cutting and joining of pipe has to take place before i face turning the screws on the back of the pump.

pics 1 - my chavtastic setup, 2- rev counter, 3 boost gauge 4 - T-ing into the wastegate bit of hose, 5 - som ebits to plumb in the cooler, 6&7 - boost controller thing 8- i dont know how i have managed 8 , i only have 7 photos.

EDIT - 7 attachments now, but none in the correct order corresponding to numbers above - probably not too difficult to work out though.

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post-865-1181837296_thumb.jpg

post-865-1181837320_thumb.jpg

post-865-1181837394_thumb.jpg

post-865-1181837421_thumb.jpg

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On my old isuzu 2.8 powered 90, turning up the fuel on the pump made the boost pressure increase a fair bit, so dont go mad with that boost controller thingy until you've turned the fuel up!

I put a 200tdi intercooler on it, and turned the max fuel screw nearly 1 turn, and it made a fair bit of difference!

Sam

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On my old isuzu 2.8 powered 90, turning up the fuel on the pump made the boost pressure increase a fair bit, so dont go mad with that boost controller thingy until you've turned the fuel up!

I put a 200tdi intercooler on it, and turned the max fuel screw nearly 1 turn, and it made a fair bit of difference!

Sam

hmm, maybe i can hold off sticking the screw thing in until i've got my plumbing done.

i dont really want to go lifting the boost much, if at all over stock really as i dont have an egt gauge and they are tres expensive :( .

thanks for the input on how much you adjusted the pump though. its the same pump design as the tdi, so there's plenty info, but i imagine the settings are a bit different, so its good to hear of isuzu based settings.

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Callum, is that Discovery column stalks you have fitted & how difficult was it to connect/match them up to the Defenders wiring harness, got any more pictures & info about fitting them please :D

ralph, i'm about to head out, so i'll cover this in more detail in a few days.

the stalks are from a scrap yard metro.

being of similar origin to the land rover, most of the wires match up, but its not entirely plug and play. you need some relays too, one for the headlights, run from the left stalk and one so you can have fancy variable intermittant wipe on the front (whilst you're there nick the similar relay for the back window).

hazards are a bit odd, i have the old switch still in and working, but the one on top also works, sort of (not fully resolved yet).

they've been in for about 3 years now and are much better than the old stalks, nicer feel and generally work a bit better. unfortunately that also means i dont fully remember everything abou the change, but hit me with any questions anyway.

lots of fettling required to fit them in the cowling as you can maybe see and lots of fettling to make sure they fit over the column. they're held in place by a jubilee clip on the column, which is a bit ghetto, but is much more secure than the old ones with the inevitably cracked plastic clamp. cowl screws remain mostly the same.

i added a few more things about the place, heated rear window, rear wash wipe and moved the fogs switch, all now in the centre bit. my 110 is ex army so it never had these systems in the first place, therefore i had to improvise (rear wnindscreen wiper and washer also froma metro). i imagine yours has most stuff anyway so will be a bit of an easier job, although you'll have to work round things like sorting out your fog light switch.

as i say, i have to go, but if you have any questions, please hit me with them. i have some wiring stuff written down. i'm happy with the results, but it wasn't really a quick and easy job. metro haynes manual is handy...i happen to have a spare too.

shall sort out a better description and some more pcs when i return in a few days

callum

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last week a boost gauge arrived and last night i had a look at it and decided what fittings were required.

the needle on the boost gauge is really fluttery when not really boosting, not by a great deal, but at really high frequency. i don't know if that is an issue. i shall speak to my pneumatics expert (father) when he gets home. its solid when boosting though, so maybe it is ok.

next step is installing the boost controller thing. it seems to be basically a screw valve to restrict pressure, beofre allowing it to escape as normal to the wastegate. i bought it to up the boost slightly to compensate for the presence of the intercooler, rather than to try running something like the 20psi allisport run their isuzu 2.8 at. it seems a bit inaccurate (been trying wth a track pump) and my father didn't think much of it. anyone used/using one?

They make a tee fitting with a restricting orifice to steady out the needle. If you got some brass rod of the appropriate diameter to fit your tubing, then drilled the smallest hole in it you could, it would probably help. Also keep it as far away from the gauge as possible.

The boost controller goes on a tee also and allows air to escape to atmosphere. If just put inline with the wastegate, it would only slow the reaction time of the wastegate, so boost would remain the same. If shut, it would disable the wastegate. When installed on a tee, it allows some boost to escape, fooling the wastegate into thinking the turbo is producing less boost than it is. Having installed a VW TD in my 88", then having to totally rebuild it after an idiot caused me to crash, I have been through everything you are doing. Just adding boost won't do anything for power unless you add more fuel. If you are going to add more fuel, then I'd highly suggest getting an exhaust temp gauge so you don't burn the turbo up. More boost will cool the exhaust. My build and rebuild are here: http://www.66rover.com/mods/mods.html

Good luck with yours!!

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To cure your wobbly needle stick something like an inline fuel filter in the line - the extra capacity of the filter will smooth out small spikes in the pressure very much like a capacitor in electronics terms. Just make sure it will handle any pressure applied to it!

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