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300 Tdi Clutch replacement


sticky
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Hi All!

Fairly new to the forum but have been around a while! (Co-driving challenge events)

Looking for advice, hints, tips etc.. I am going to be replacing the clutch on my 1996 - Defender 90 - 300 tdi -shortly. It has 104000 miles on the clock.

I am wondering whilst, i have all the bits on the floor, what else is worth doing based on the mileage and your experience?

Any particular makes of clutch to avoid? or come recommended?

Very interested to hear your views/opinions as time and the clutch are slipping....

Cheers!

Sticky

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Replace the complete clutch (cover, driven plate, & thrust bearing), and the clutch fork (get a reinforced one from Les H) …….. also at a 100K + the clutch clave cylinder is past its best and they are not a lot of money……………whilst I was that deep in I would probably replace the rear crank seal on the engine as well.

Are you removing the gearbox or the engine ............... I prefer to remove the engine, but other prefer to remove the box, I guess its 50/50

:)

Ian

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Hi All!

Fairly new to the forum but have been around a while! (Co-driving challenge events)

Looking for advice, hints, tips etc.. I am going to be replacing the clutch on my 1996 - Defender 90 - 300 tdi -shortly. It has 104000 miles on the clock.

I am wondering whilst, i have all the bits on the floor, what else is worth doing based on the mileage and your experience?

Any particular makes of clutch to avoid? or come recommended?

Very interested to hear your views/opinions as time and the clutch are slipping....

Cheers!

Sticky

Good for starters - thanks Ian! Think i am going to go the box out route...

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Sticky

when you do the rear main seal you need new flywheel bolts at the same time

I also replaced the front seal on the R380 input shaft as it was leaking.

I did mine recently, not to awful took a day and a half(waiting for bits mainly)

and fit a 130 clutch plate whilst you are there.

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Sticky,

as long as it doesnt slip for the 4 Aug you should be fine..... no way i would want to drive that course with a slipping clutch esp on 255/85s......

anyway parts wise

RTC1994 - 130 Clutch plate

URB100760 - release plate

FTC2957 - Fork if not getting on of the super duper les H ones

FTC5200 - Release Bearing

rear crank oil seal

crank flywheel bolts

anything else needed?

Do you want some Simex ordering whilst i am at it?

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Guest WALFY

I'm with Ian on this. I prefer to take the engine out. Then you can do all the clutch work with lots of space rather than struggling. But I suppose it's all to do with what facilities you have.

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Sticky,

as long as it doesnt slip for the 4 Aug you should be fine..... no way i would want to drive that course with a slipping clutch esp on 255/85s......

anyway parts wise

RTC1994 - 130 Clutch plate

URB100760 - release plate

FTC2957 - Fork if not getting on of the super duper les H ones

FTC5200 - Release Bearing

rear crank oil seal

crank flywheel bolts

anything else needed?

Do you want some Simex ordering whilst i am at it?

Come on James, if your going to jump in ( & nick my job :P) with numbers at least give the guy correct info RTC1994 doesn't exist :rolleyes: it should be FTC1994

Rave says 'fit new patched retaining bolts' (they must have a pre-treated patch of threadlock on the threaded section) then torque to 108lbft or 147Nm :D

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That's the same Rave that says you should change big end nuts (no mention of bolts) on a 300tdi, the same one that tells you how to change your ( 8 ) spark plugs on a TD5, the same one that says you should not skim a tdi or TD5 head, the same one that says the 300tdi oil pressure release valve spring has 68mm free length, the same one .....

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yep that will be the same one, do you not agree or am i missing something here......

actual reason for post - Sorry Ralph, i was just proving that i am not upto it so back over to you!

Sticky - parts ordered they will be here Mon.

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The nominal cost of the flywheel bolts I followed instructions rather than see it again on it's way through the bellhousing/floor after it comes loose.

my understanding is that recommendation was for back when a locking plate was used under the bolt heads.

Different bolts and Loctite (something like 272, high temp, high strength) are used now. Will never come loose.

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and FWIW, the current preference out here is for the AP kit (and it's cheaper, too) as there have been too many problems with current Valeo kits (mainly shudder)

Along with the fork, the fork slipper pads and staples need replacing, as well as the plastic clip holding the clutch slave pushrod onto the fork.

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another couple of tips. Replace the spigot bush, and before fitting soak in warm engine oil (it's sintered bronze) and don't grease it.

When replacing the rear main seal, don't oil it or the crank at all (the seal has a teflon coating) and don't use a gasket behind it, use RTV silicone.

Use a good quality moly fortified grease very sparingly on the splines and pivots.

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ps

No thanks to the simex mate,

and i figure this weekend could be a fond goodbye to the rest of the clutch, better to go whilst playing in the mud than somewhere boring like halfway up the M5 at night...in the rain.... on me own....

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