siggy Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 OK after I stopped to make a phone call on the way home this morning, landy wouldn't start (just turned over and over quickly)took several goes this morning after dropping my lad at the grandparents (so I can sleep working nights) it did it again this time I rocked it backwards using reverse gear it did it once about a month ago but that time it seemed to be the immobiliser (reset it it started straight away) do you think its the starter motor or is it the immobiliser ???? M.T.I.A. siggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 If its turning over quickly it can't be the starter (I assume you mean the engine is turning not just the starter motor?) it sounds like the "spider fault" would do if it was a Discovery (interrupting power to the injector pump shutoff solenoid), but it is worth checking the feed to the injector pump solenoid (dirty/corroded connector, its only a spade connector) if there is definitely 12V to that all the time and it is a good connection then it might be a dodgy solenoid, though if they pack up (fairly rare) usually it won't stop rather than won't start! As a get you home repair you could carry a made up bit of wire with a spade connector on the end long enough to go from the inj pump solenoid to a good positive feed (in through the door seal and into the top of the battery box would probably do in emergency!) and if it won't go, stick that on instead. Beats walking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted October 27, 2005 Author Share Posted October 27, 2005 unfortunately on all occasions not been able to investigate however will do the get me home.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pigster Posted October 27, 2005 Share Posted October 27, 2005 I assume your solinoid cable is still on securely ... ?? It might just be a bad connection... which does happen as I found out with my reverse light - - rewired the whole back end thinking it was the problem, turns out I had pulled out (came out some how) the main feed cable on the bulkhead. Still everything looks nice and new now.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted October 28, 2005 Author Share Posted October 28, 2005 It did it again this morning ran up into forecourt to fill up wouldn't start just turned over jolted it forward nothing jolt it backwards started straight away just done a search on the epc is this part number correct if I need to buy one stc3254 @ £54.36 inc vat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 From here £30.87 + vat HTH Ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted November 2, 2005 Author Share Posted November 2, 2005 Further symptoms travelling home tonight as a went up a slight slope engine cut out coasted to stop ignition off restart give it a bootful...... ticking over drive home more and more it's sounding like the fuel solenoid is dying am going to push fuel cleaner through it clear sedimenter if necess and have solenoid on order can/ could somebody confirm that once ignition key is turned a 12V feed is sent to the fuel cut off and that should remain there until I turn the ignition off. unfortunately I forgot to take me multimeter with me and it was raining and it restarted so I didn't do much will investigate on saturday (blinking work getting in the way of fixing landyfaults ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Once the ignition is on there should be a permanent 12v supply to the cut-off solenoid, even when cranking the engine. It's possible that poor connections/knackered battery may reduce the current to the solenoid sufficiently to cause it to close and therefore stop the engine from starting. This problem would only occur when trying to start the engine and not once it's running I would have thought. Use the bypass wire all the time for a few days and see if you still get the problem. If you do, then it's the solenoid that's most likely the problem. You could also unscrew the fuel cut-off, remove the plunger and spring, then re-fit. By doing this you will be in effect bypassing it and the only way you'll stop the engine would be to stall it. So - Use the bypass wire. If you still have the problem then remove the plungerand spring from the fuel cut-off and see if that cures it. If not - then further on to the expensive bits , ie Injector pump. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 I think it maybe mucky fuel /water contamination as it only appears to happen when I have 1/4 of a tank or less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Marshall Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Siggy I had a similar intermittent starting problem on my 300 TDi a couple of months ago....thought the starter was sticking....rocking in third would remove the problem. altho strangely heard no click. Got caught out a couple of other times, rocking cleared, then a week later, rocking no longer did the trick...RAC man diagnosed a faulty spade connector on the starter motor solenoid. Happened again a week later, not the connection, so I bought a new starter motor. Before I had a chance to fit the starter, same thing happened and this time I used my jump leads to go straight from the battery to the starter.....and it fired. Having checked the relay in the cabin fusebox which feeds the exciter on the starter I knew then that it was the alarm system at fault...the famous spider issue. I gave the job to Marshalls of Cambridge - even if I'd changed the ECU I still couldn't have reprogrammed the keys which interface with a search coil around the ignition barrel. I also didn't fancy the fuel cut off solenoid, also part of the alarm system, cutting off unexpectedly on a blind bend. They installed the updated system and everything is now fine, including the disappearance of a problem causing my battery to run down every month. Apparently dealers are seeing masses of cases of failure in Discos and Defenders. Cost me £300, which is a bugger, but at least I now have a much better alarm system. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Will keep and eye on that It conked out on me as I accelerated out of a set of road works (A1 black cat Double bends) pulled up in layby 2 seconds later was going again had 1/8 of a tank. Filled up after work plus bottle of diesel treatment and drove home with absolutely no problems? if it was anything other than sludge/water in system/filter!! surely it would happen all the time? Does anybody know how to completely de-sludge your fuel system? Do treatments work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Could be a bit of fuel starvation going on, -- not enough in the tank to enable the pick up pipe to be in fuel all the time, therefore it would suck air/fumes not liquid fuel --- just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Didn't think of that guage generally undereads the amount of fuel. can the pickup move/ wear out? however will now consider keeping tank full could it be a leaking pipe, joint connection when the fuel is low it sucks air into system haven't noticed any leaks smelt fuel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 fuel pick up pipe can't move as it's part of the tank gauging unit. does/should have a filter on it, which maybe blocked/restricted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siggy Posted November 4, 2005 Author Share Posted November 4, 2005 Is that a tank out jobbie or can access be gained with it in situ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 I've only ever done petrol ones, but I assume they are the same. If I remember correctly - sender is on the passenger side right above the chassis rail, but fuel pick up pipe is on the top, so tank out I'm afraid. The pipe connection to the top of the tank is prone to severe corrosion and can easily snap. You need to lower the tank just enough to be able to get at the top of it. If you just drop the it, you'll rip the pipe off. 2xM10 (17mm socket and the same size spanner) for the fixings towards the front of the vehicle, and 2xM8 (13mm socket) into the crossmember. Again be very careful as the rear fixings are prone to rounding off as the size of the head is reduced by corrosion. You can only get a socket on these as they are up the back of the tank in a gap between the rear crossmember inner face and the back of the tank. Don't forget to unplug the sender unit and as you lower the tank you need to make sure that the sender tabs don't get snapped off as they are very close to the chassis rail. This is a real pig of a job to be honest and I've never done one that went even close to smoothly. Definitely a two-man job. Also, the top of the tank normally has tons of dirt on it which will cascade down on you. Even when drained the tank is quite heavy and awkward. Best of luck with it, most of us will hear the foul language regardless of where in the uk we are! Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.