89 Defender Electrical Wiring

[monty]

Good Morning, I am looking for some help and advice. I recently purchased an 89 Defender 90 for a toy to go off-roading with.

However, there are a few problems with the lighting system. Basically, the previous owners had attempted to install 4xfront spotlights and 2xrear spotlights (with 2x switches located in between the cigarette lighter and the windscreen washer switch). This has not worked for them! And the only main light that comes on is the passengers headlight beam. But all lights go off when I put on high beam.

On further diagnosis, and the attempting to repair the cables back to their previous unaltered state (spliced cables everywhere), I think I am nearly there. However, I have 3 questions...

1 - The cigarette lighter (i installed a new one - as existing one was broken, and I need one for charging my mobile) - is it standard that these work 100% of the time, in that they don't require the key inserted/turned. Also, can someone advise how the LED on my new cigarette lighter should attach to the existing wiring, so that it only comes on when the lights are on. There are 2 cables (red and black) for the LED and which cables (colours if possible) should I splice to connect them into?

2 - Whoever installed the spots, cut a drivers side cable behind the front lights (red/blue or blue/red) and is lying loose. I am assuming this is the case why the drivers side low beam doesn't work - would I be right, so if I reconnect this cable will it likely solve my problem? - Also is there an easy way to get to this cable without taking off the bonnet/wings?

3 - Now I am not 100% clued in with electrics, so could someone please help with what components I would need to purchase to be able to sort out the spot lights? What I require is 2 buttons on the dashboard (Front Spots & Rear Spots). I constructed a quick sketch of the front spots (see attached) - does this look about right? And obviosuly change over the DPST for a SPCO relay for the Rear Spots. Also, is there anything I should be concerned with (i.e. types of switch etc.)

Thanks

Ciaran

[LR90]

2 - Whoever installed the spots, cut a drivers side cable behind the front lights (red/blue or blue/red) and is lying loose. I am assuming this is the case why the drivers side low beam doesn't work - would I be right, so if I reconnect this cable will it likely solve my problem? - Also is there an easy way to get to this cable without taking off the bonnet/wings?

Ciaran

firstly welcome to LR4x4. On the above point just pop out some of the plastic rivets that hold the wheel arch eyebrow in place and pull the front part of it clear. This will give you plenty of access and its easily refitted with new rivets (orig plastic or large pop but its worth getting a bag of the original ones).

[western]

blue/pink trace = Left dip beam

blue/slate trace = Left main beam

blue/orange = Right main beam

blue/black = Right dip beam

blue/red trace goes from the lighting switch to the fusebox & is the feed for the left dip & main beam see list above for wire colour at back of light unit

blue/white ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ right dip & main beam -------------------------------------------------------

cig lighter should be live at all times, regardless of where the key is, use the purple wire to feed it, for the led try the red/white gauge illuination wires to feed it & any black for earth.

do a search for spot light wiring, LandymanLuke did a good guide recently & a good diagram.

hope that helps.

[monty]

Ok, thanks for the help guys....i think I have managed to get the wiring now back to the original intended way...i wish it was that easy...it now looks as though there is something else wrong too...as only the passenger side dipped beam is on, and like before flicking to full beam leaves only the side lights on....so rather than waste any more time on this...is it legal to re-wire the lighting system to say buttons on the dashboard i.e.

i am thinking of having all the lights on switches mounted on the dash...

1 - Side Lights

2 - Dipped Beam

3 - Full Beam

4 - Spots

I would simply run new lengths of cable for all lights on both sides of the car and that way I would remove any dodgy wiring that exists elsewhere. In addition these would all be connected to relays. Is this a good plan?

[western]

maybe the main light switch &/or the left stalk at fault, not sure about wiring the dip/main beam seperate as you'll need a fairly quick way to drop from mian to dip while driving. perhaps another main light switch & stalk will cure the problem.

[101sean]

maybe the main light switch &/or the left stalk at fault, not sure about wiring the dip/main beam seperate as you'll need a fairly quick way to drop from mian to dip while driving. perhaps another main light switch & stalk will cure the problem.

I doubt if the stalk is at fault if parts of the system work and I'd leave it working as is, maybe worth checking the switch contacts while you are poking around. Double check the wiring and how are you making the repairs? Check for continuity and volts with a multi meter through the system including at multiplugs using the wire colours above. If you are going to rewire do it downstream of the switches, incorporating relays is a good idea, TD5s have them. Just wired a load in my 101 before my halogens melt everything.

[monty]

I doubt if the stalk is at fault if parts of the system work and I'd leave it working as is, maybe worth checking the switch contacts while you are poking around. Double check the wiring and how are you making the repairs? Check for continuity and volts with a multi meter through the system including at multiplugs using the wire colours above. If you are going to rewire do it downstream of the switches, incorporating relays is a good idea, TD5s have them. Just wired a load in my 101 before my halogens melt everything.

Ok, will check the connectors around the stalk tonight and see whats what....in order to make the repairs, i'm resoldering the cable together, then heatshrinking and amalgamating the heatshrinking, to ensure i have a solid connection.