Les Brock Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 4 speed manual to 4 speed Auto on V8 carb....firstly can it be done Removing one tommorow from 3.5 efi E Reg IIRC.....if its easy'ish to do Already got the shifter and cable etc, need to drill out and have the top top plate off the transmision tunnel so if I get the gearbox mounts box itself transfer box dipstick oil cooler pipes inhibiter switch torque convertor plates from the back of the engine owt else ??? Anything I need to know with regards removing it.....any special tools that I'm unlikely to have ? How long "should" it take me Ta ! Sorry for rushed post got to go delivering calenders to customers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Assume you got the bellhousing with the gearbox. You didn't mention the gearbox oil cooler. Also when you mention 'plates from the back of the engine', you will need the flywheel and flexplate plus the boss and spacers (you will see when you remove it). Hopefully the engine you are taking it from is carbs as well, 'cos you will need brackets for the kickdown cable to fit onto the SU's. They fit into the hens teeth category. Just make sure the torque convertor is properly seated and have a big bucket to collect all the transmission fluid - there is lots (imperial measurement )! Time depends on what manpower, machinery, hoists, ramps etc. you have available. I would say allow at least half a day (4-5 hours) for removal if you are on a drive and being careful (rather than just 'dropping' it out). No special tools (apart from hands like ET to get the belhousing bolts out). Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Gearbox cross member? Dunno if it is different to what you already have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danborn Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 And propshafts! I don't think auto and manual is the same... Jesper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 And propshafts! I don't think auto and manual is the same...Jesper Welcome too, Jesper. The props are the same. The difference came with the BW transfer box which has a longer front one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danborn Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Welcome too, Jesper. The props are the same. The difference came with the BW transfer box which has a longer front one. Thank you Deano, and thanks for clearing up the propshaft thing! I’m learning something new every day! Jesper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 The props are the same. 5 speed manual and 4 speed auto props are the same, assuming same transfer box. However Les says he is replacing a 4 speed manual and I'm not sure those props are the same, I might be wrong though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DEANO3528 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 5 speed manual and 4 speed auto props are the same, assuming same transfer box.However Les says he is replacing a 4 speed manual and I'm not sure those props are the same, I might be wrong though Hi Mark, how's it going? How right you are, I missed that snippet. 4 spd props are different to 5 spd, not least in the size of the uj's journals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Well, I'm back....... Had the props anyway just in case But........ Notice there's alway a but.......... Once I removed the flexplate and ring gear, the other bit that bolt onto the crank with 6 or 7 recessed allen bolts.....refused point blank to move, even with a 1/2 inch socket with allen bit in it ............ So did I need it or are they all recessed , or do I have to make a long trip there with re-enforcements to get the thing off, as obviously if the one on mine, once I remove the 4 speed (not the original engine that is only find it has normal headed bolts to fit the clutch pressure plate to Looks like I'm back in the V8 team.......Must admit I never enjoyed the Hybrid as much as when it was a V8....just no grin factor with the 200tdi .....so this'll get it back.....might regret it at the pumps though So if I need this bit anyone got a spare to save me a trip.....pweety pweeeze ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I think you do need that bit When I done mine I had everything off the back of the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ101 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Looks like I'm back in the V8 team.......Must admit I never enjoyed the Hybrid as much as when it was a V8....just no grin factor with tha 200tdi .....so this get it back.....might regret it at the pumps though Welcome back Les, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Yup, you do need that bit. It is different on a manual. I got one (didn't use in the end) from the Rangey breaker Martin Toole. I will have a look to see if it still here, but suggest giving him a call anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Brock Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 Went back at cold o'clock this morning and got it off, broke two 1/2 inch drive Allen sockets getting it off Gawd knows what thread lock they used Just as well I did as well, as there was a spacer on there as well Cheers chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coastcard Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 Yup, they are v.v.tight. The measurement for the spacers/shims required (various thicknesses) and that you found is based on a measurement from the back of the flywheel to IIRC the block casing. It is detailed in the Rave manual. Having said that it doesn't seem to corellate to the distance between the flexplate and torque convertor (before bolting up) which can still be well off the, circa 2mm, recommended gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I must admit I found it odd that these shims allow for very fine adjustement yet the tollerance in the end float of the TC seems quite large. I just fitted everything from the old engien to teh new one and it all went together fine giving an appropriate end float on the TC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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