Badger_1 Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Never owned or driven a 4x4 before so excuse me if the answer to this is obvious. What does the transfer box do on a freelander? I'm guessing its something to do with the four wheel drive. Can someone explain the principle please. Also is the four wheel drive selected from stationary or can it be engaged whilst the vehicle is moving? Early days for me and I'm doing my homework to see what I'm about to let myself in for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llanigraham Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 Never owned or driven a 4x4 before so excuse me if the answer to this is obvious.What does the transfer box do on a freelander? I'm guessing its something to do with the four wheel drive. Can someone explain the principle please. Also is the four wheel drive selected from stationary or can it be engaged whilst the vehicle is moving? Early days for me and I'm doing my homework to see what I'm about to let myself in for. The Freelander is PERMANENT four wheel drive and therefore not selectable. Technically the Freelander does not have a transfer box but an Intermediate Reduction Drive, that reduces the drive from the gearbox and "splits" the drive to front and back axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Badger The Freelander does not have a transfer box. As stated above there is a unit called the intermediate reduction drive, which splits the drive between the front and rear "axles". There is also a viscous coupling which allows for permenant 4wd without causing transmission wind up - as long as it is working. "Wind up" is a torsional load on the transmission caused by the four wheels turning at different speeds when cornering. A transfer box houses in effect a two speed gear box, which are referred to as High and Low range. Once either of these gears is selected, the main gearbox is used normally as in a car. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger_1 Posted December 23, 2007 Author Share Posted December 23, 2007 Thanks guys. Are there any of these components known to be wary of when viewing a second hand freelander and any tests you can advice me to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 There are know issues with the IRD, viscous coupling, and centre bearings on the propshaft. AFAIK it is the viscous coupling seizing that tends to damage the IRD. Have a look at the wear pattern on the tyres, as I gather that they tend to "feather" when the viscous unit has seized. You might also notice on roundabouts if you lift off the throttle on a tight lock, that the vehicle slows abruptly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosworth Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 depending on the year of freelander you may have problems with the ird box. landrover changed them in late 2000. anything before i`d be wary of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger_1 Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 Thanks for the tips guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G30RGE Posted December 26, 2007 Share Posted December 26, 2007 Thanks for the tips guys Here is a diagram I put together to explain this graphically to someone a while ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger_1 Posted January 1, 2008 Author Share Posted January 1, 2008 Is part number 3 on the diagram on the right the viscous coupling I keep hearing about? I can see why the IRD is so expensive, are they a big job to replace on a driveway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G30RGE Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Is part number 3 on the diagram on the right the viscous coupling I keep hearing about?I can see why the IRD is so expensive, are they a big job to replace on a driveway? Yes - part number 3 is VCU (Viscous Coupling Unit) I do know someone who has repaired IRD on driveway (I have a link to pics and article he did if I can find it - I'll post it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Thats a good diagram g30rge... would be worth sticking in the tech archive imho... Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Is it possible to fix it so it's RWD not 4WD? I know people take the rear prop off when the IRD goes to avoid buying a new one, I'd prefer RWD to FWD though just for the giggle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Only if you remove a front shaft as the CV keeps the oil in the IRD. I don't recommend it as 0nly 40% of the power goes to the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Here is a diagram I put together to explain this graphically to someone a while ago Grate lay out. If anyone is interested The main shaft is the part I tended to shear and the rear drive section is the part that snaps off when you really start to push it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I don't recommend it as 0nly 40% of the power goes to the rear Surely with a locked/b*ggered VC and no front shafts 100% of the power is going to go to the rear? Just wondering if the IRD would spit its dummy or be OK with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 It would hold up but I wouldn't recommend too many traffic light grandprix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blippie Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I don't recommend it as 0nly 40% of the power goes to the rear Surely with a locked/b*ggered VC and no front shafts 100% of the power is going to go to the rear? Just wondering if the IRD would spit its dummy or be OK with it. It would hold up but I wouldn't recommend too many traffic light grandprix ... on the premise that 100% of the power would be diverted down what is designed for 40%? Cheers Blippie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddyadd Posted October 10, 2008 Share Posted October 10, 2008 Hi guys, I am new to this forum and new to freelender ownership. At the momenet I am somewhat regretting it. I had a slight vibration which never having owned a 4x4 took to be the result of them being a bit aggricultural!? This developed to a knock and bang and motorway recovery job. Took off the prop and had a look at the (Hypoid?) drive gear for the rear wheels. It is destroyed chunks of metal floating around, part of the housing looks like it's been eaten by mice etc. The gear connected to drive gears both to the left and right. I would like to know if I remove the hypoid gear and blank the back of it off with a plate and gastket will it run ok in front wheel drive as these two other gears are also quite badly damaged? I know this is not desirable but there is no cash in the pot and I need the transport. This will give me a chance to save up for the parts to refit the ird at later date. I dont need the 4wd drive function I bought more to use for work and occasionally pick the kids up from school. Cheers Bigdaddyadd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjm295 Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 depending on the year of freelander you may have problems with the ird box. landrover changed them in late 2000. anything before i`d be wary of I have just purchased a 2000 model, registered in sept 2000. How can I tell if I am at risk? Is there an easy way to tell the ratios in the ird without taking it apart and counting teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llanigraham Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 Simple answer, you can't. There were 2 part numbers for the IRD's but I don't know when they were changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blippie Posted November 15, 2008 Share Posted November 15, 2008 The main risk is seizure of your VCU, which then gess on to put strain on the IRD. There are two good tests for the VCU, the "Ashcroft Test" (described fairly recently by Fridge Freezer in a post) and the "Tippex Test" (where you daub a blob of paint on the propshaft on either side of the VCU.) Both have been decsribed at length already on the forum. Cheers Blippie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freebiker Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 hi guys, I have a been getting vibrations in my 98 Freelander, I thought it might be the replacement used tires I put on but reading your posts I am concerned that it might be the rear prop. I was considering removing it to improve fuel consumption anyway, and it sounds like it may be important to do it sooner rather than later. Are there covers for the diff available or would I need to fabricate them, and how hard a job is it to remove the Prop? anything I should know before I attempt it? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defv890 Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 Sounds like it only started after u fitted the tyres ??? If so u need to get them checked as could be miss shaped or balancing out also u need to put the tyres with the most tread to the back or u will get this also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 You don't need to cover anything, just unbolt the propshaft from the diff & gearbox. People remove the IRD drive-flange & blank off the hole but unless the IRD output gear/bearing/seal is bu&&ered there's no point as it won't be doing anything if there's no prop. Ran my last freebie for tens of thousands of miles like that, current one is running like it at the moment pending new support bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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