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About Blippie

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    Keynsham, Bristol

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  1. If you are ultra cautious it will take an hour. "Refitting is reversal of removal" is the key phrase, so as per the previous post do pay attention to how it comes out. Once you have removed the door card (gently but firmly does it) you can carefully slice the plastic water shedder to gain access to the nuts, bolts 'n' holes you need with minimum damage You may have to move the window pane up or down in order to line the bolt holding the glass in the runner with a hole. Remove the old regulator, make note of how the whole thing is configured (ie is the window on the same position in the old and new regulators), swap and test the motor, refit, test the whole thing, then tape up the water shedder and refit the door card. Bob is indeed your father's brother. Cheers Blippie
  2. Oh, Where's my signature gone? Don't mind me, ignore this. Blip
  3. This is all splendid stuff and very timely as it's time for Mrs H's 90 to have some attention. I've asked for permission via google docs - the www.horse-back.co.uk address. Thanks Blippie
  4. I think Western has already answered your question. You need to insert the key, and twist it to its second position (the one before the final twist that starts the engine) which switches all the electrics on as if the engine was running. This will allow you to use the wipers. Thanks Blippie
  5. When I disconnected the prop on our L-series for a few days while we waited for parts, I hated it. It was horrible pulling away, felt very unbalanced and not the fun it had been previously. It was probably emphasised by the fact it is a Camel Trophy model with all the extra weight, but overall it was an off putting experience and something I would avoid again. Cheers Blippie
  6. Just wondering if anyone has done this but left the original washer head in place, ending up with a triple washer head set up?!!!! Would the single motor have enough umph? Thanks Blippie
  7. Never had an ingress of water from the front doors, and we've been fairly deep in both of our Freelanders. I'd be very looking very sternly at the seals. Cheers Blippie
  8. Some of these might be useful... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=79347 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76137 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40341 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76136 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54201 http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8221 ... if not there are loads of threads about the same topic on www.landyzone.co.uk Cheers Blippie
  9. I think you get the whole assembly - wiper linkage and motor - or just the linkage. It's a simple thing to swap out with the guidance of a Haynes manual. Worth getting a set of plastic rivets for the escutcheon/scuttle under the windscreen as you'll probably foul them up removing them.. Cheers Blippie
  10. Also get mid- to high-thirties on shorter journeys, 40+ on longer. Cheers Blippie
  11. What Rocky said. Cheers Blippie
  12. The shine of a brand new galv chassis wears off after a couple of months. Galv components will still corrode, but at a slower rate than untreated steel. Cheers Blippie
  13. I much prefer it when something FALLS OFF as that is easier to diagnose.
  14. HI all I've had a quick browse through the old posts but couldn't find anything similar to this problem. Our 1998 L-series 2.0 diesel Freelander stalled as Mrs Blip pulled away from traffic lights after a long journey. It wouldn't restart - it would turn over and over and we checked all the fueling problems and couldn't spot anything wrong. Further investigation spotted that the glow plug lamp wasn't illuminating - the 70amp fuse hadn't just blown but melted. The engine management light fuse in the cabin fuse box had also blown. After replacing this, all was well and the car started first time and ran fine. I've now been able to recreate the problem, by pulling away roughly. The first time I tried it, the glow plug light illuminated briefly just as the engine almost stalled but then recovered. I tried it a second time - no glow plug light (fuse blown) and the vehicle stalled and wouldn't start (engine management fuse blown) Any thoughts? Cheers Blippie
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